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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Spewing oil out of the O-ring or seal. See blue circle in pic. If you zoom in on the pic, it appears part of it is missing. Perhaps it dry rotted???

I need some guidance on replacing the o-ring or seal please. Is it as simple as removing the pto cable and the three bolts?
I have the workshop manual and the only discussion on removal is when the tractor/transmission is split apart. Yikes! I hope I don't have to go that far to repair!!!!

Thanks, Bucky

73715
 

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Hello Bucky, welcome to the tractor forum,

It does look that simple..... remove the cable and 3 bolts, and it comes out as a unit. Replace shaft seal item #130 and large body o-ring item #020.

 

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If you have a local dealer, the parts would probably be cheaper. Messicks charges an exorbitant shipping fee. Coleman is actually less.
 

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Bucky,

One final note... Notice the little "tit" pointing downward at the bottom of item # 080. That fits in a hole on the bottom for some function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys for all the help. Now that I'm looking at the view of the exploded assembly, it appears the shaft seal is what failed.

Hey SidecarFlip, you are 100% correct about Messick's, but I've found I can get the parts faster than my local dealer. He doesn't normally have items in stock and only places factory parts orders "when he gets enough to order." ...whatever that means. I didn't know about Coleman; I'm going to look them up and see what they are all about.

HarveyW, thanks for the "tit" tip!!! LOL
 

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I do a lot of business with my local Kubota dealer, in fact yesterday I signed the papers on a new Kubota premium net/twine round baler that he brought in from another dealer for me. Still doing 0 percent financing plus Kubota gave me a $5000.00 ag rebate on it and my dealer gave me exactly what I wanted on a trade in on my NH round baler (2011) 450. I stepped up to a 2021 baler for 10 grand and no finance charges. I don't mind using their money at all actually. Never had an issue with parts with him either. If he don't stock it, I can get what I need in a week or less and they deliver to the farm, don't even need to go there. Never get a shipping charge either.

He did tell me (we were talking about the current equipment issues) and he said it will be at least a year before things get back to normal.

He said he's getting tractors but not as ordered units (he sells a lot of big ag Kubota's and the smaller ones too). Most come in with no loaders or ordered stuff like backhoes.

Next year I'll probably either sell or trade in my disc mower for a new Kubota disc machine. My disc mower is getting some hours on it as well.

Few years ago I bought filters for both my M9's from Messicks because they were a bit lower than my dealer was but the ship cost made them more than my local dealer charges. That was enough of that. 2 oil filters, 4 hydraulic filters, 2 air filters and 2 pre filters plus 2 fuel filters. I only use genuine Kubota filters, usually the cost is so close to the Baldwin and Wix, basically no difference. Messicks charged me almost 50 bucks in shipping, I'm not doing that. I do know that Coleman's waives the ship cost if you order over 200 bucks at one time but Coleman isn't as good on prices as Messicks is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I started using WIX and Baldwin filters several years ago because a new NAPA store opened up vey close to me and it was more convenient than driving 20 miles to the Kub dealer. Price was about the same as Kub dealer. Have used them in three machines and no problems so far... knock on wood! I'd rate them equivalent to Kub. However, all my parts are OEM Kub. I don't chance it there.
 

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I use WIX filters on my truck and cars. Fine filters in my opinion. After a few You Tube video's, I won't touch a Fram filter. Now, I don't ascribe to tube video's but that all seem to agree, Fram in substandard. I don't know who makes Kubota oil and fuel filters. I do know that Kubota air filters are made by Donaldson and I believe their UDT and SUDT is refined by Valvoline for Kubota exclusively. I do know you cannot buy it from Valvoline.

When I change the gearboxes, I get a 55 gallon drum of SUDT. Each unit takes a tad over 15 gallons and over the course of 2 years, I'll use an entire 55, Every time I connect and disconnect hydraulic couplers, I always loose some fluid. Keeps the back of the tractors from rusting...

I buy my grease from Lubrication Engineers in 150 pound open head drums, have an air powered greaser.

Tractors get a steady diet of Shell Rotella T6 5-40. Oil gets changed every fall and transmissions get changed every 2 years. The T6 makes for easier starting in the winter. They don't get plugged in, no juice in the barn.

I burn all my used oil, have a Kleen Burn waste oil furnace in the shop. Never seem to have enough for the entire winter though.
 
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