well here is a chance for some of you to hoot at me-- my JDL120 will not start! no spark at the plugs when I pull plug wires and use a steel peg to hold 1/4" from block to see if any spark -- it has been slow to start all winter - died a few times when running around the yard - the outer air prefilter was clogged and when I removed that it ran - last week -- this week it stared slowly , died and will not restart -- - gas down carb does nOT start it -- cranks great -- do the seat and brake safeties allow it to crank , but not give any spark? I will try jumping around brake safety first and then remove seat to check that one-- any suggestions --? what a way to spend a weekend-- I am supposed to be doing house repairs and remodeling a bathroom- hauling it to the dealer is my last resort
jdl120 will not start
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The most likely items that come to my mind are stuck safety switches. (mower, seat, brake?) If you have jumped them and eliminated that possibility and still no spark. Not many other things except perhaps a low oil shut down switch if equipped and a bad coil/magneto pack. (I had a bad magneto pack go on my Stihl ST400 that had me scratching my head for awhile) Have you tried pulling the spark plug and inserting the plug in the spark plug wire and holding it against the block and cranking it? Any spark across the gap??? That is a pretty recent model. Isn't it still under warranty?
Bigl22,
I had a bad safety swicth on my craftsman GT, but the only thing that happened when I turned the key was a click and nothing else even with a fully charged battery. The switch that went bad on mine was the interlock switch at the brake pedal. If it's cranking, I would think maybe something in the igniton system. Have you checked over the wiring to make sure nothing is shorted or pinched? Any switches that were excessively exposed to water from snow or mud?
I had a bad safety swicth on my craftsman GT, but the only thing that happened when I turned the key was a click and nothing else even with a fully charged battery. The switch that went bad on mine was the interlock switch at the brake pedal. If it's cranking, I would think maybe something in the igniton system. Have you checked over the wiring to make sure nothing is shorted or pinched? Any switches that were excessively exposed to water from snow or mud?
I got it started -- it was a fuel delivery problem apparently after all - fresh gas poured straight into the carb throat and it fired right up-- - or else the fuel pump is not up to snuff . BUT why no spark when cranking? I am going to change fuel filter first -- my use notes tell me that this slower to start problem began after I used gas stabil in it-- i may have made it too strong - - unlikely but possible -- I didn't carefully measure that day as it was NOT the pour measure bottle -- I ran and started this JDL120 all winter every week , kept it in an unheated shed -- gas stabil in it -- ran it for 15 minutes min. every week - drove it around my yard after allowing hydro to warm up some by letting brake off and rocking back and forth over 3 foot range -- pisses me off - the 15 yr. old MTD junker with choke that barely moves , and I never started it all winter -- started right up first 15 seconds cranking time after I put 200 amp charger on it and poured tablespoon of gas down carb throat- smoked like hellfire for about 3-5 minutes , but ran around yard like wheely boy's chimp was after i- rear end was noisy 4th gear and up -- so now -- new plugs and fuel filter for JDL120 only 77.5 hours on it --
Hey bigl22, When you replace the fuel filter I would recommend that you drain the gas tank and put fresh gas in it. sometimes you can get contaminated fuel even with the Sta-bil in it (condensation comes to mind). I had no problem with my lawn tractor (L-120 also) letting it sit in a unheated garage all winter even with only starting it about 3 times this winter and using Sta-Bil on it also. My L-120 has 75 hours and it started right up each time. As for the no spark condition I think had maybe it had one and you just didn't see it or hear it. BTW the owners manuel recommends that a new fuel filter and spark plugs every 25 hours. I think that is a little on extreme side changing that often but I do the air filter, plugs and gas filter every 50 hours.
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l run my JD all year l change the old when it needs it and the winter l put a higher grade oil in it the air filter ones a month or if it's dusty 3 or 4 times l have a 1983 JD 212 l would like a JD L-120 it's would cut better then my 212 but the newer tractors are built alot lighter what does the l-120 weigh ????
I just quoted out of the JD owners manuel on the maintenance and it stated the reccommended info.
Also this is the info from the owners guide
The L-100 and L-110 weigh 462 pounds
The L-120 and L-130 weigh 532 pounds
The above info is on page 63 of the owners guide.
michael -- I had the sparkplug held in my nylon/polycarb spark plug wire and boot holder to prevent being shocked into a mess in my drawers-- I had a steel drywall screw bit inserted into the plugwire steel clip inside of boot and held it about 1/4" from the steel engine sheet metal -- no spark -- so if it does it again i will end up taking it to dealer as it has 18months left on warrenty -- since I didn't buy it from him - he won't fetch it for free , but he says no problem to work on it-- this model he said has been pretty much problem free - the smaller engined 100 has had some kind of compression release problem -- BUt I,like doing repairs myself when I can - I haven't worked on a B&S that is this new in design -- although the basics haven't changed much since 81 according to B&S website - their site is not too good -- hard to get anything more than pix-- they want to sell me anything really helpful
Bigl22
Glad to hear everything worked out well!! You see, this is a much better place! Just think if you posted this question at that other place, 300 replies and arguments later and probably still no real answers. Is it possible that the steel part you are refering to holding the plug to is somehow insulated from grounding? Maybe that's why no spark?
Glad to hear everything worked out well!! You see, this is a much better place! Just think if you posted this question at that other place, 300 replies and arguments later and probably still no real answers. Is it possible that the steel part you are refering to holding the plug to is somehow insulated from grounding? Maybe that's why no spark?
6chows -- I am pretty certain it was grounded - this may still be a safety switch problem -- I wil run it as long as it runs and when it breaks [ as they all do ] I will see about getting it fixed -- thanks-- I still read the other site as they do post some answers - can't post - too bad about being booted as some of what passes for info over there is wrong!
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bigl,
Since you are getting a spark when you start it after putting gas in the carb, could the lack of spark it be in your spark plug out test procedure? Was someone sitting in the seat with the brake on when you tried checking for the spark?
I've hit myself upside the head many times troubleshooting when my test setup didn't work.
Greg
Since you are getting a spark when you start it after putting gas in the carb, could the lack of spark it be in your spark plug out test procedure? Was someone sitting in the seat with the brake on when you tried checking for the spark?
I've hit myself upside the head many times troubleshooting when my test setup didn't work.
Greg
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Bigl…
Glad to see you got it going. .:thumbsup:
I have been burned by the “Rod in the Plug Boot” no spark also.
If your doing most of your own maintenance get yourself a spark tester.
They are just a few bucks and really take the guess work out of seeing if there is spark.
With two tractors, you really should get one
Glad to see you got it going. .:thumbsup:
I have been burned by the “Rod in the Plug Boot” no spark also.
If your doing most of your own maintenance get yourself a spark tester.
They are just a few bucks and really take the guess work out of seeing if there is spark.
With two tractors, you really should get one
homergreg -------yes, I had one of my grown -but-can't figure out -how to graduate college and move out daughters sit and crank the engine over for a bit-- brake was on and engaged fully -- seat and brake safetys both have 4 wires on them -- no simple 2 wire interuppter circuits anymore I guess -- without a wiring guide and /or taking the loom apart I wasn't eager to guess which set of each was the safety circuit I wanted - bigl22
I guess everyone was kind of guessing and it finally worked out in the end. I am one of those who have not had a problem with my L-120 but I did buy the maintenance manuel as I used to be a vehicle mechanic and I want to have all the basis covered. I will look in the wiring diagram and scan it into my computer and then add it as a attachment to this for the L-120
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Bigl22- that did take guts! I agree...at another website, you would have been tarred and feathered, burned at the stake, and quite possibly stoned. I mean when they throw rocks at ya. :smoking:
Anyway, glad it's runnin'. I also like alot about the L120- nice lookin' machine!
Greg
Anyway, glad it's runnin'. I also like alot about the L120- nice lookin' machine!
Greg
well it is definitely a fuel problem -- new fuel filter did not help-- so after checking out fuel coming from pump to electric fuel valve -- I am going to drop the deck and haul it to the dealer -- better now than waiting-- I am so f--king tired from this damned bathroom remodeling that I don't have the steam to fix it myself even if I had time and nice garage [ which I do not ]
Hey Bigl22, It sounds like it might be the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid is bad and if it is you are doing the right thing by taking it in to the dealer. If you want I can copy the maintenance manuel page to see the test but the carb has to be taken apart to remove te solenoid.:wontshare
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