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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried searching for old posts on this issue, but did not have any luck. I have a 1990 JD 955 with turf tires and the 70A loader and 7 BH. The rear tires have been filled with fluid (and perhaps the fronts), but not by me so I have no idea what is in them. Fluid appears clear. How do I know this? Well, there appears to be a leak in one of the big rear rims where the center wheel disk is welded to the outer hoop. It is a slow leak, and it only showed up recently. I suspect I know the answer, and it is going to cost $$, but I thought I would seek advice from others that have dealt with this.

Assuming the rim has rusted internally from the fluid, is it worth repairing?

How do you go about removing fluid from the tires?

How much do new rims cost?

The tires are not new, and the fronts are weather checked (both have at least 50% tread left). Should I replace tires and rims together? I use this mostly on grass, so turf tires seem appropriate, but I also have more excavation work to do with the loader and BH, have though about switching to R4s if/when the old turfs reach retirement.

The tractor was inactive for a long period of time before I bought it, if that matters. I have used it quite a bit lately, moving loads of stone, soil, concrete, etc. I suspect the rust, if that is the culprit, has been ongoing for a while, and the recent loading/stressing of the rims has caused the corrosion point to weaken and perforate.

TIA for any suggestions or donations. :winky:
 

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It is hard to say whether or not the rims are salvidgable or not. You will have to remove them, disassemble, and inspect to make that determination. I would suspect they can be repaired.

I would STRONGLY suggest removing the wheel/tire assembly and taking them to a tire shop that handles ag tires and have them remove the tire from the rim. Unless you have the strenght of 10 gorilla's and the special tools; it is a MAJOR deal taking these tires off the rim. The tire dealer will either save and reuse or dispose of the NaCl for you. They have a set up for filling the tires. It is a big PIA to fill tires that large by yourself. Yes it can be done but in my opinion, it is just not worth the struggle.

After inspecting the rim for servicability and provided it is determined to be worth saving; I would suggest first having the leak repaired and then sand blasing the rims down to bare clean steel. Then apply a good quality primer, followed by the Deere yellow paint.

Do you want to refill the tires again of go with wheel weights???

If you refill the tires, I would recommend a installing puncture resistant innertube with the tire and then refilling the tire with "Rimguard". Rimguard is nothing much more than windshield washer fluid and is pretty much non-corrosive but does not weigh nearly as much as NaCl. Approx. 8lbs. per gallon for the Rim Guard vs. approx. 12 lbs per gallon for NaCl (not sure on this as it varys by % solution). I would go with the rim guard and add tire weights if required.

Buying new rims and R-4 tires is going to be VERY expensive and it sounds like you have many years of use left in the turf tires.

To give you an idea how long a rim can last with NaCl in it; I had a Cub 154 Lo Boy with the original tires and rims that were filled wtih NaCl for who knows how long. They were filled when my father purchased it 20 years ago and I used it for 11 years. The rims seeped a bit around one of the valve stems but I just kept on using it. The rims were badly corroded but still kept performing. Your rims are not nearly as old and most likley repairable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Chief. Believe me, I have every intention of having the tires removed by the shop. In fact, given the size and weight of the filled rears, I may just trailer the whole tractor over to the dealer and have them R&R the wheels & tires. I have one herniated disc in my back, and do not intend to get another.

I did have a problem with one of the front tires a couple of weeks ago. I tried to re-inflate it, as it was low. The valve core had corroded to the point that the pintle disintegrated when I tried to fill the tire. The core broke in half as I tried to unscrew it from the valve. So, I used a flat bar to break the bead so I could remove and replace the whole valve. The tire had about 2 quarts of liquid inside, and a fair amount of rust around the bead. I did replace the valve stem and reinflated the tire. It is holding air, but I suspect that corrosion will progress until the bead starts leaking.

Time to do some more service on this poor, neglected tractor.

Isn't there a can of "stop-leak-rust-remover-primer-paint-sealer" I cant just squirt into the tire? :rolleyes: :smoking: :clown:
 

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You and I both wish. :D ;) No free lunch on the fix. I agree with you; take it to a tire dealer that can do this for you. The only issue I see is who will be doing the sand blasting and painting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will talk to my dealer and see what they are willing to do for a reasonable amount of $$. I do not have a sandblaster (or even a compressor to run one). If they cant/wont/dont do the cleanup and repaint, then I may have to take the wheels off myself. I imagine they wont want to have the tractor laid up in the shop while I do the wheel restoration.

What is life without challenges? I wish I knew . . .
 

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This Rim/Tire Conversation might just solve your problem:)

Dean


<img src=http://www.greencis.net/~custer/v9619.jpg>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
But then all the water falls out! :confused:

Funny guy . . . :winky:
 

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it is better to take the tractor to the tire shop they are easier to fix right on the tractor as for rim leakage on a 1990 tractor i would imagine it was just leaking around the valve hole but with the tire off you'll be able to tell for sure. i usually sandblast then use whatever rust paint i hapen to have in the cupboard. no one is going to see the inside of the rim once the tire is back on
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Bear. As I mentioned in my post, the leak is from a spot near where the inner disc and the wheel hoop are welded together. There is no leaking at the valve (I wish it were).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Chief,

I have had no time to do anything yet. I will probably wind up taking it to the dealer.

P71,

There are no tubes in my tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nope. Right now I have other things to deal with. 5th day without power, more snow/ice expected tomorrow, and the utility co says it might be several more days before power is back up. Kids are going nuts (have not been in school since last Tuesday), and so are the parents . . .

Bought a Generac 5550/8550 generator yesterday, so now we have some relief. Had to drive 50 miles to find one.
 

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We got our power back after 2 days without, but there are homes within sight of mine that have been dark for 4 1/2 days now. The utility company says maybe tomorrow...

Glad to hear you gat a generator. For what it is worth, "Country Junction" stores are selling 23,000 BTU Kerosun brand heaters for under $100. Stay warm.
 

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Sorry to hear you are having a challenging time with the weather. After the bad ice storm in 1993 here; I bought a Generac 5500/6850 generator. Of course now that I bought it, nothing ever happened to cause me to need or use it. :D Best to have it and not need it then the other way around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the CJ lead Joe. Don't need the Kero heater, as I luckily have oil fired HWBB heat, and not electric BB like all the new houses across the street. The generator easily runs my furnace, which is also my hot water source. Never been so happy to NOT have a HW storage tank.

Chief - I should have bought this thing two years ago. Just this past fall we had a bunch of power outages due to the hurricanes, and I had to borrow a generator to pump out my basement. Power was "only" out for 1 day then. I also wanted it for portable power around the farm. Now I have it, and hopefully wont need it again for any emergencies, but I am not holding my breath. This thing is pretty quiet, too. A lot quieter than my 955 running at 3200 to turn a PTO generator. Glad I did not go that route.
 
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