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Wow...yes you need to address that manifold hole next. Replacement or repair, either way it needs to be removed. Most likely cast iron which takes special skills welding.
See if you can find a good/used replacement somewhere. You'll need exhaust gasket also.
By looking at picture it may be (how can I explain?) It may be a heat "riser" going up to intake to heat intake in which case removal isn't necessary...it could be rigged possibly by cutting that piece off then sealing it (metal band bent/fabricated) sealed so exhaust doesn't leak.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Wow...yes you need to address that manifold hole next. Replacement or repair, either way it needs to be removed. Most likely cast iron which takes special skills welding.
See if you can find a good/used replacement somewhere. You'll need exhaust gasket also.
By looking at picture it may be (how can I explain?) It may be a heat "riser" going up to intake to heat intake in which case removal isn't necessary...it could be rigged possibly by cutting that piece off then sealing it (metal band bent/fabricated) sealed so exhaust doesn't leak.

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Very interesting! The "hanging chad" does look like the end of a control lever for a heat riser. Not common at all for this model. But maybe original was in a cold climate??? When there is a little more daylight I'll have a closer look. Either way, you shouldn't feel any exhaust coming out of that hole? When the tractor does start, it gets the job done. But definitely with running issues. I'm OK with that. Thanks!
 

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I'm with Fredm on the temporary fix. If you cleaned up that hole area, then make a metal patch plate, JB Weld it over, then wire or hose clamp it on...at least it's better than now and may hold until you find a manifold.
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I'm with Fredm on the temporary fix. If you cleaned up that hole area, then make a metal patch plate, JB Weld it over, then wire or hose clamp it on...at least it's better than now and may hold until you find a manifold. View attachment 80303

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That's funny, I just got back from Napa to get a new oil filter and some oil. I also picked up 2 of the exact item. Except I paid $12.77 ea. I am noticing that Napa is not competitive at all, for things I've been purchasing lately. Thanks and will do.
 

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Just tuned in thought I'd add a little to the excellent advise you've received from other members , I noticed in your video it appears your coil is giving you a good spark but based on the looks of the points it's probably not firing every time and may be out of time because of incorrect gap .I recommend replacing points and condenser as planned but not the coil unless necessary, if your system has an external resistor its purpose is to drop the voltage applied to the coil after "starting" the original coil is probably a 6 volt coil, during starting "only" the resistor is bypassed resulting in 12 volts being applied directly to the coil giving you a hotter spark . I would also inspect the dist. cap for cracks, burned contacts, and the carbon button that makes contact with r button. When installing the cap make sure it properly locks in the notch on the dist. Good luck
 

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You’ll need to use Starter spray not Carburetor cleaner to spray into the intake to test if it’s an electrical problem or carburetor problem. Remove the air cleaner cover. Spray about 1 second of Starter spray into the intake and crank engine over. Leave the Chock open when cranking engine over. If engine starts up and then dies it’s a carburetor problem. You can verify this by repeating the spray for 2 seconds. If it starts again and runs a little longer it’s definitely a carburetor/fuel problem. If it does NOT fire off and run at all with Starter spray, it’s an ignition/electrical problem. Hope this helps
 

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I know this reply isn’t going to go over well but it’s solid advice. Your problem was basically answered in the beginning posts. Now it’s great there’s so many chiming in and your able to pick and choose which to sort of hand hold you through this basic problem. Yes basic! It’s an old points carb machine. Get used to filing and gaping points. Condensers go out regularly and these ole resisted coils don’t kast long. With ethanol gas neither does the carbs!

It’s kind of clear you really don’t have much if any experience with engines or at least older types. NOT a bad thing! We all learn and have starting points!

Now none of this is meant to offend you! Although I’m sure I already have! I don’t know a nicer way to reply other than straight out and straight forward!

This particular machine is notorious for having issue after issue. They are great hard working machines that you just have to wrench on them constantly! If IF you can keep it running and know how to fabricate parts nowadays.

A lot of the stuff you just can’t purchase for it anymore! You have to find substitutes and or fabricate parts. There’s not much of any information on them out there. Not many old codgers left to pick their brains either.

Now I’m trying my best to help you! Again.. Not offend you! Do yourself a favor and sell that machine when it’s running good again!

You were lucky and had some hand holding through this one. That’s great! I guarantee you you won’t have it when you start having hydraulic issues! You WILL have them! I guarantee it! Simply because not many remember this type machine and it’s sort of unique.. plus there’s not any info to be had! I think me and one other gent on YT basically own the title for posts on the 3414 there. Between him and I we’ve discussed and dealt just about every 3414 issue there is. From diverter valves, hydraulic banks, pumps, carbs, clutches, ignition, and anything engine related.

Look I get your gonna be like every other guy. It’s your machine and your decision. Why in the hell listen to a random guy on the net. You got this! Right?

Save yourself some money and time. If your not that guy that loves to pour money and wrench time at things. With you saying this is over your head! Welll.... unless you have a well stocked shop. A machine shop. Can fabricate your own items. Etc. I would consider trading or selling this one off.

This is just solid advice and nothing more. Maybe it will last for ya! 😏

Good luck my friend! I’m sure you will find one of my fazzillion Posts over at YT. Sadly I just don’t have time to post on these boards much anymore. I’m sure if you keep that machine eventually you’ll find either the other gent or me again. That is if he even still frequents the forums.

I still have my old 3414 only because if put so much time and effort into it. I hate that damn thing! LOL. I would sell it but I just can’t put that headache on another man with a clear conscious!

Again good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Sorry, I need to read through everyone's comments tonight. I put new coil, plugs, condenser, points and rotor. So wanted to give a quick update: 'Ol Betsy got some spark in her and she's fired up! Been digging my trench (54" deep) today for about 4 hours straight. Some issues, main thing is the hydraulic leaks. Need to stop about every half hour cause I feel hydraulics losing power and re-fill. But other than stalling once or twice, I was able to start again 🙏 🙏 🙏 but had to use the choke?? She's getting the job done. Thanks again everyone!
Sky Cloud Wheel Tire Vehicle

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Wow! You did it and congratulations! Thanks for posting about it.
Everyone's different. If you don't mind working on it and fixing things as you go along I think it's great.
If you need a dependable tractor & use it a lot I'd consider trading or selling it, buying new or fairly new.
Good job!

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I know this reply isn’t going to go over well but it’s solid advice. Your problem was basically answered in the beginning posts. Now it’s great there’s so many chiming in and your able to pick and choose which to sort of hand hold you through this basic problem. Yes basic! It’s an old points carb machine. Get used to filing and gaping points. Condensers go out regularly and these ole resisted coils don’t kast long. With ethanol gas neither does the carbs!

It’s kind of clear you really don’t have much if any experience with engines or at least older types. NOT a bad thing! We all learn and have starting points!

Now none of this is meant to offend you! Although I’m sure I already have! I don’t know a nicer way to reply other than straight out and straight forward!

This particular machine is notorious for having issue after issue. They are great hard working machines that you just have to wrench on them constantly! If IF you can keep it running and know how to fabricate parts nowadays.

A lot of the stuff you just can’t purchase for it anymore! You have to find substitutes and or fabricate parts. There’s not much of any information on them out there. Not many old codgers left to pick their brains either.

Now I’m trying my best to help you! Again.. Not offend you! Do yourself a favor and sell that machine when it’s running good again!

You were lucky and had some hand holding through this one. That’s great! I guarantee you you won’t have it when you start having hydraulic issues! You WILL have them! I guarantee it! Simply because not many remember this type machine and it’s sort of unique.. plus there’s not any info to be had! I think me and one other gent on YT basically own the title for posts on the 3414 there. Between him and I we’ve discussed and dealt just about every 3414 issue there is. From diverter valves, hydraulic banks, pumps, carbs, clutches, ignition, and anything engine related.

Look I get your gonna be like every other guy. It’s your machine and your decision. Why in the hell listen to a random guy on the net. You got this! Right?

Save yourself some money and time. If your not that guy that loves to pour money and wrench time at things. With you saying this is over your head! Welll.... unless you have a well stocked shop. A machine shop. Can fabricate your own items. Etc. I would consider trading or selling this one off.

This is just solid advice and nothing more. Maybe it will last for ya! 😏

Good luck my friend! I’m sure you will find one of my fazzillion Posts over at YT. Sadly I just don’t have time to post on these boards much anymore. I’m sure if you keep that machine eventually you’ll find either the other gent or me again. That is if he even still frequents the forums.

I still have my old 3414 only because if put so much time and effort into it. I hate that damn thing! LOL. I would sell it but I just can’t put that headache on another man with a clear conscious!

Again good luck!
Thanks for the input. Luckily the things I've needed, while not necessarily original, has been readily available. It's not my intention to keep this tractor forever and restore her. She's a tool and has been a great value to me for countless things on my property renovation. I paid 5K delivered when I bought it a couple of years ago. In my mind, I have already recouped my investment. And I wouldn't be surprised if I got a good chunk of that money back if I were to sell her. Be great if you can post a YT link of one of those that you referred to. Always interested in learning more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Wow! You did it and congratulations! Thanks for posting about it.
Everyone's different. If you don't mind working on it and fixing things as you go along I think it's great.
If you need a dependable tractor & use it a lot I'd consider trading or selling it, buying new or fairly new.
Good job!

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With a little help from my friends. ;)Thanks! I can't say I use it a lot, only for certain projects that come up. But having a tractor like this with some attachments (bucket fork attachment etc) there just many things to help not break my back and get a job done. But probably a newer joy stick control would be a plus over 4 separate backhoe controls. It is frustrating when you are set to do a project and you get thrown a curve. But you get past it hopefully and I've learned some useful basic stuff in the process. (y)(y)
Cloud Sky Wheel Plant Tire

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tree Vehicle

Plant Wheel Sky Tire Vehicle
Sky Wheel Tire Vehicle Plant

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One of my neighbors had one of these, I used it for a day (borrowed) and gave it back. My Kioti 2610 might have been slower/smaller, but, was able to get to places it could not. Another neighbor wanted to buy it, I advised against it, he bought it anyways. Just sat for years and years now.

Sometimes a tractor you own that isn't new is more doable than one you can't afford. Glad its working for you.
 

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I know this reply isn’t going to go over well but it’s solid advice. Your problem was basically answered in the beginning posts. Now it’s great there’s so many chiming in and your able to pick and choose which to sort of hand hold you through this basic problem. Yes basic! It’s an old points carb machine. Get used to filing and gaping points. Condensers go out regularly and these ole resisted coils don’t kast long. With ethanol gas neither does the carbs!
We used those technologies for years and had no problem. Keep the dust from the points and they will last for hundreds of hours. Drain the gas from the carburetor when it's going to sit and you will have no problem either. Never had a coil fail either.
 

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That's funny, I just got back from Napa to get a new oil filter and some oil. I also picked up 2 of the exact item. Except I paid $12.77 ea. I am noticing that Napa is not competitive at all, for things I've been purchasing lately. Thanks and will do.
They may he more expensive than Amazon, but, they have a great inventory usually on hand. I prefer to pay extra for immediate availability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Warning TLTR : 'Ol Betsy's bucking for a separation. Well the next day after running pretty good for 4 hrs of trench digging, started up to resume and started up no problem but running rough under backhoe load, coughing, backfire etc. Played with different choke and throttle (Governor control lever, it has a foot accelerator pedal too) not any good combo's that would improve the performance. Then after 10min or so would want to stall. But pull choke wide open and get a little spurt, then dies. Wait a few minutes start up, runs for 5-10min, stalls. 3rd time again the same. I re-set the points gap (which the replacement set (identical from what was there) had come with two plastic washers. No instructions. I threw them under the adj contact mounting plate screws. Not one of my best decisions but it was raining at the time. Long story short I realized those washers were to raise the fixed contact in better alignment and ease of pivot movement. So when I re-gapped the points I put a suitable plastic washer under and the point contact better aligned. Started up again and same issue, run for 5 min or so then dies out.

I'm sure this probably is as painful an effort to read through all this as it is for me to write it... Started the fuel diagnosis again. Opened the top of carb and hand primed, good squirting action, float rises nicely, Pulled the float needle and inspected for operation (there is a lot more to include about this part but not going to go there now, but may have to at some point 🤪) With hand blowing through inlet needle seemed to seat/unseat as required(?) but don't know of a test to actually see the whole process of float operation including gas. Replaced some rubber gas lines (in out in-line filter) Emptied gas tank and yes there is some junk at the bottom. Got some out., no instruction I see how to remove the tank. Looking at it and don't see how it wouldn't be major to do so. Got all my gas lines together, blew out everything, re-installed the glass bowl fuel restrainer that comes off the bottom of the tank (which I cleaned the screen) used the cork gasket and started to put some gas in the tank. Fuel strainer was leaking now and couldn't get it to stop. This morning removed the strainer and cork gasket looks shot. Good news is that TSC looks like they may stock the screen/gasket. Just need to verify size. Decided to replace my hydraulic filter and am waiting now for Napa driver to get back with it. Then, outside of some junk at the bottom of my tank, hopefully I can re-button up my fuel line and fill up the tank. I've purchased a spark tester light to go through that process again. I'll check for spark and start (hopefully) the tractor again to see how she runs. I did patch the whole in my manifold.

Is there a way I can do a test to see if my carb float and needle is performing properly while it is still attached to my tractor?

I get what my Governor is supposed to do, but how can I check to see if the linkage needs adjusting?
When I push up my dash Governor control lever all the way up (while engine is off) I don't see any movement in my throttle at the carb. Also the lever always wants to spring back down to less than 1/2 way open. In fact when tractor is running I can't push up the lever and have it stick/stay at the higher level. Is this normal?

Thanks!
 

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Don't screw with the governor. We have two variables with which to work. The backfire sounds like a spark time issue but the shutdown maybe lack of fuel which could sometimes cause a backfire. We need to focus on one or the other.

If it were me I would make sure the firing is working as it is supposed to. I assume you changed the condenser when you put new points in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Don't screw with the governor. We have two variables with which to work. The backfire sounds like a spark time issue but the shutdown maybe lack of fuel which could sometimes cause a backfire. We need to focus on one or the other.

If it were me I would make sure the firing is working as it is supposed to. I assume you changed the condenser when you put new points in.
OK. But can answer should I be able to push the dash control lever all the way up and should it stay there? Or naturally spring back? My tach is broken. Yes I changed the condenser and coil. Just got a new cork filter for top of fuel strainer bowl (i need to trim OD a little smaller to fit) Then will fill up gas, put the top of carb back and start her up. Ready to trim the gasket now. Will post back update. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Update: One minute you're about to strangle them and the next you're buying them flowers. Sounds familiar. All 4 cylinders have spark. I raised the idle. She seemed to smoothen out a bit after that. Put her to the test and started to dig the trench. She performed well under load and no issues for about 30-60 min. It seems like the Governor is working, I guess, cause I did not sense any bogging down under digging load. Good ending to the day. We'll see what tomorrow brings. Thanks and sorry for the ups and downs!
 

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If the governor wasn't working that would be obvious right away as the engine would not respond to load. I don't know about the lever but that has nothing to do with how the engine runs.

How did changing the idle help when you don't run the engine at idle when working it?

One way I've fixed that fuel filter issue is to replace the old sediment bowl with a new inline filter.

Stay focused, fix one thing until you know it's correct then move to the next issue.

It looks like a very nice workable tractor. For the most part International parts can be found. I have a 544 that has the unsaleable points as others have pointed out. I just live with it and it gets work done.
 
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