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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
You can do test with carb removed...just spray into intake hole where carb was.
If choke is wide open, you can spray a little there, see if it runs. If it starts to die...spray a little more. If it revs up every time you spray you know for sure you have a carburetor problem.
Here's a pretty good YouTube video of engine theory:

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I never hit the post reply last night! Looking forward to watching that video tomorrow. I think it will help gel things together. Will try the starter fluid test too. Thanks 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok I鈥檝e had that ole 3414 for a while! I鈥檝e worked on just about every issue you can think of with this thing!

First off let me tell you that a Jeep carb can be bought new for around $80 to replace that zenith. There鈥檚 not any replacements to be had really. There was a guy selling his own modeled carb and is on mine. Turned out the quality is crap! You can rebuild them but again it鈥檚 about the same as a new Jeep carb.

Do yourself a favor and bypass that mechanical pump and just install an electric pump. 3-4 lb universal. Saves future headaches.

If yours is converted to 12 volt. Check your resistor to the coil. If good check you鈥檝e got fire going to the plugs. It could be a condenser or the points need filed. If there is good fire to the plugs. No need to look further right there. Whoever said replace plugs just cost you $. Hell this thing will chug over and run on one good plug. Ask me how I know馃ぃ.

Now if were are back to the carb issue. Take the fuel line off where it feeds the bowl. Hang it over the side or stick it in a clean glass bottle. Crank the tractor over. See if it鈥檚 pumping. If so then it鈥檚 the carb.

Now take the top of the carb off. Connect the fuel line. Have someone crank the tractor o we while you press down on the U Spring that holds down the float. See how far the bowl fills up before the needle shuts off the fuel flow. This is time to set the fuel float and fuel level in the carb by bending the tang on the float. This is a repetitive process of removing fuel, cranking the tractor over and checking fuel level.

Make sure before you do any of this that the brass fittings that screw in behind the needle are tight and seated.

Now with the fuel level set there should be no overflow and flooding issues. It鈥檚 time to set the carb. Truly I forget the exact process but it鈥檚 on the web.

There is a fuel air mixture on the bottom. Likely won鈥檛 need to adjust this right away. There鈥檚 also a T handle adjuster. Yours might not be a t but it鈥檚 facing the tanks and on top. Screw in then back out 2 1/4 turns. It should fire right up. From there this screw can be adjusted to meter the fuel.


This is brief and a quick, crude and poor attempt to help you get her going again. I know how it feels to be at a loss. Good luck buddy I hope Ive helped a little!
Great. Thanks for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Most pump levers had to be inserted through the opening and kept close to the inside of the engine housing, sometimes when the pump lever rested against the cam lobe, you have to push against the pump lever to insert the retaining studs.

To check the pump operation, remove the supply hose from the carby inlet and place into a container and pump the lever and watch the flow, if the flow is a good squirt, then the pump is ok, if only a dribble then possibly a reed valve is stuck, but don't go there yet, you can also hold a finger over the hose end and pump the lever to check pressure as you pump the lever, be careful, can be a bit messy with fuel spray, the fact that the diaphragm is not leaking fuel shows that the diaphragm is ok and the reed valves are also ok when the fuel pump is pumping, maybe I should have said "PRIME the CARBY", I was probably thinking Prime the fuel/injection pump on a diesel engine, sorry, and fuel pump supply is the amount of fuel being supplied to the carby from the pump.

If you are not sure of what I have written, then ask questions again, I'll be happy to answer.
What do you think ? Good enough flow? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I think it is about time you checked the actual spark for colour, pull the plug lead from any plug and connect to a plug that you removed and replaced, place the plug on a good earth point and have someone crank the engine while you check the spark at the plug electrodes, a blue spark is best, check the ignition points for correct gap and condition of contacts and the condenser, a crook condenser will do what you are experiencing, if you have badly arced contacts, then replace both contacts and condenser, with a good American or British made one.

An old saying, "if you think you have fuel problems, then it may be electrical", because both will give a similar problem and it is easier to check electrical before fuel.

If you can prime the fuel pump with the primer and you get good supply, then the diaphragm and the reed valves are ok, the long banana lever goes against the cam shaft and this gives the pumping action, you have to be sure when inserting the pump that the lever actually goes against the cam lobe, it is easy to place the lever on the wrong side of the cam lobe, that I know.
It's kind of hard to tell. But it doesn't appear or sound very strong to me. What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
That output is between good and bad, did you try the primer lever to see what the output was like?, did you pace a finger over the outlet house to feel the pump pulse and if the pulse could lift your finger and pass fuel through?.
No. I fugured if the crankshaft was working the pump properly (my video) then I did not need to do hand primer lever. RE outlet hose, you mean the same end as I show in the vid before going into carby?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
That output is between good and bad, did you try the primer lever to see what the output was like?, did you pace a finger over the outlet house to feel the pump pulse and if the pulse could lift your finger and pass fuel through?.
OK, I held my finger on that hose end and hand primed it. Good pressure and would spray past my finger but not holding it super tight
 

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No. I fugured if the crankshaft was working the pump properly (my video) then I did not need to do hand primer lever. RE outlet hose, you mean the same end as I show in the vid before going into carby?
yes, -- and the fuel pump seems to be working, but I expected enough fuel to fill the end of the hose as it was ejected, and placing a finger over the end would let you feel how strong the pulse was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
You can do test with carb removed...just spray into intake hole where carb was.
If choke is wide open, you can spray a little there, see if it runs. If it starts to die...spray a little more. If it revs up every time you spray you know for sure you have a carburetor problem.
Here's a pretty good YouTube video of engine theory:

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Great video. watched the carb one too. MUCH better understanding now. I sprayed some carb cleaner into the top of the carb (in place with air hose off) and did not kick over. I kept spraying, but not a huge amount of spray was going in due to can being low. Did not do much. Should I try again with fresh batch/can of the same? Thinking might be spark related. See my videos. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Give me a break. I found some of my old (but new) Champ L90C plugs that I did not realize I had and wanted to see what the spark was like on that vs the NGK ones I just picked up (not realizing I had 4 more of the old, discontinued now) And now I just hear a clank from the starter. Like its trying to turn the flywheel but can't. I have been cranking often and battery may be getting low. This is a new starter. Was working fine 5 min ago. Any clues? Pissed spent 4-5 days with the starter issue, had old (1954) Lucas model. Continued help appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Went back out and it cranked a few times then stopped. I'm more hopeful now 馃檹. I have it hooked up to the charger. Since I can't crank it (I do have a multi meter) maybe I will just pull the distrubutor. and check points, rotor etc. The previous owner left me with a new spare rotor. I hooked up my multi meter to the coil with everything wired and no key on and got a 2.7 ohm read across += posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Don't pull distributor yet!!!!!

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Why? I have disconnected the coil. The center coil wire going to the distributor looks a bit oily at the end. Is that a problem? Disconnected it read 3.7 ohms across +=. Was about to pop open the distributor the checked my phone saw your message. I've disconnected all the wires at the plugs. What's the issue? Thx
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I'm leaning towards spark now.
Fuel pump video seems sufficient fuel.
As long as float is OK and shutting off properly I wouldn't mess with it, adjustments, etc.
If it didn't fire off with starting fluid or carburetor cleaner I'd focus on spark.
No need pulling distributor...it was running before.
Keep battery charger on it. (Should be around 12.7v charger off.).
Did you replace points & condenser with quality ones? Set gap correctly.
Here's an easy spark check: (Note: you don't want key on, points closed more than a few seconds...it burns points up). You'll need a small insulated stick, wood,plastic & Multimeter.
I assume it's 12v, negative ground.
Key off position. Do NOT crank...
1) meter black neg. lead on good ground.
2) points closed
3) key on...measure both +&-- on coil...should be around 9v + side, 0v -- (distributor) side.
4) key off
5) pull center lead off of distributor that goes to coil.
6) connect spark plug to end, plug laying on ground. So coil tower high voltage wire to spark plug on it's side grounded.
7) key on...open points with stick. Plug should fire. Each time you release, points close, open the plug should spark (strong blue spark....pop-pop-pop!
Now everything back together, last test meter + red lead to coil +. Points closed, key on. What's the voltage (should be about 9v)...crank on it. That should be same as battery + voltage while cranking.
For proper spark you need good points & condenser, good coil, proper power going to coil +, good plugs & plug wires.
With key off, Multimeter on resistance Rx1 scale you should have close to zero ohms with points closed from ground to coil -- side.





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I'll read what you wrote...but if it was running fine, pulling distributor there's no purpose and you'll most likely get timing off...no purpose pulling it.

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