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I take a new (clean) piece of hose over fuel inlet. Blow through it...should of course be no resistance. As you're blowing rotate carb upside down (do this over a box if it's apart to catch parts that may fall out). As floats drop you'll feel it shut off airflow.
I have done it with air compressor set at 4-5 psi using rubber tip blow gun.
If it's flooded pull a spark plug. Wet, it's flooded.

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If carb is attached blowing into inlet won't work. When floats rise fuel cuts off, carb has to be off. You can also check floats in a cup of water to be sure they're ok.
Carb probably just needs taken apart carefully (make notes & pictures), soak clean (Berrymans, etc), blow out passages air compressor, new carb kit.

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An old car I have fuel pump has hand primer. It's just so if car sits a long time by pumping it fills carb bowl. I almost never have used it.
Fuel pumps you can do a pressure & volume test. Your tractor I'm not sure exact specs but should be close enough:
Disconnect fuel line at carb. Put a pressure gauge on it...most vacuum gauges also check low pressure. Crank on it, pressure should be about 3-5 psi (roughly).
Then gauge off, hold clean jar with fuel line going in & crank. Should be maybe 8 oz. in 10 seconds (roughly).
Me...I'd focus on rebuilding carburetor. Of course they'll work fine then not...could be trash in fuel tank. Some passages are small.


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If you don't have one, Harbor Freight $12.79 I'd get one. That way you know pump pressure.
Fred is correct, a weak spark means hard starting & poor performance.
IF you want to try this (use your judgment...I've done this test for years): an engine with good spark & compression (I assume if it ran well that's ok) doesn't even need a carburetor to run. All you need is starting fluid or carburetor cleaner. Spray some in intake, crank...it should start. Keep it running with spray. That's a quick easy test to be sure carb/fuel related.
Spark with plugs out engine will crank faster since no compression. Plugs on side on a good ground should see a good strong blue spark.
PM me, we can talk on phone better.
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Thanks for the link. I do have some carb cleaner spray (can is getting a bit low) So if I take the air filter boot off the top of the carb, I would just spray into the top there while it's cranking? And I guess my choke would be off? I watched some YT video today saying starter fluid could damage a gasoline engine? Others said it was fine. I guess your with the later. Thanks! Praying for some good results tomorrow. This down time sucks.
You can do test with carb removed...just spray into intake hole where carb was.
If choke is wide open, you can spray a little there, see if it runs. If it starts to die...spray a little more. If it revs up every time you spray you know for sure you have a carburetor problem.
Here's a pretty good YouTube video of engine theory:

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I'm leaning towards spark now.
Fuel pump video seems sufficient fuel.
As long as float is OK and shutting off properly I wouldn't mess with it, adjustments, etc.
If it didn't fire off with starting fluid or carburetor cleaner I'd focus on spark.
No need pulling distributor...it was running before.
Keep battery charger on it. (Should be around 12.7v charger off.).
Did you replace points & condenser with quality ones? Set gap correctly.
Here's an easy spark check: (Note: you don't want key on, points closed more than a few seconds...it burns points up). You'll need a small insulated stick, wood,plastic & Multimeter.
I assume it's 12v, negative ground.
Key off position. Do NOT crank...
1) meter black neg. lead on good ground.
2) points closed
3) key on...measure both +&-- on coil...should be around 9v + side, 0v -- (distributor) side.
4) key off
5) pull center lead off of distributor that goes to coil.
6) connect spark plug to end, plug laying on ground. So coil tower high voltage wire to spark plug on it's side grounded.
7) key on...open points with stick. Plug should fire. Each time you release, points close, open the plug should spark (strong blue spark....pop-pop-pop!
Now everything back together, last test meter + red lead to coil +. Points closed, key on. What's the voltage (should be about 9v)...crank on it. That should be same as battery + voltage while cranking.
For proper spark you need good points & condenser, good coil, proper power going to coil +, good plugs & plug wires.
With key off, Multimeter on resistance Rx1 scale you should have close to zero ohms with points closed from ground to coil -- side.





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I'll read what you wrote...but if it was running fine, pulling distributor there's no purpose and you'll most likely get timing off...no purpose pulling it.

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I wouldn't worry about a little oily...while checking resistance check coil & each plug wire one at a time, making sure they're ok, pull-check-replace. That's making sure you're keeping firing order as it's supposed to be.

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When you say "pulling it" do you mean popping the top off? I will screw up the timing if I pop off the top and inspect the points and rotor? I am trying to solve the tractor not starting and seems like a weak spark, but what do I know? You did ask me if I inspected the points. by doing so (which I havent) I'll screw up the timing? I'm confused
PM sent...

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When you say "pulling it" do you mean popping the top off? I will screw up the timing if I pop off the top and inspect the points and rotor? I am trying to solve the tractor not starting and seems like a weak spark, but what do I know? You did ask me if I inspected the points. by doing so (which I havent) I'll screw up the timing? I'm confused
Pull means remove distributor which you don't want to do. Call me...

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I don't think I've ever seen points that bad! The depression on the ground side also means condenser is bad. If you can wait, I would.
The coil winding ratio is 100:1, so ("3.5 ohms on the primary and 10.56 ohms on the secondary") that means 3.5 ohms primary is about right, secondary would measure in the thousands of ohms. From + or -- to center tower 5K (5,000) ohms or so is more normal.
It gets confusing since you're measuring resistance not impedance.
I'm amazed it ran at all.
Me... I'd wait for new parts if you can. While waiting I'd trace that + wire back, one you disconnected from coil + side. See if it goes to a ballast resistor (some things use a ballast wire). If it doesn't have one (wire simply goes to 12v power with key on) then be SURE you get a new coil with internal ballast. Otherwise you'll fry your new points.

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Maybe there is a worst set of points award.:D No resistors. The new coil states "Internally Resisted" so I hope that is the same as Internal Ballast On average, does it take a lot of hitting the starter to have one of the distributor 4 square corner lobes to align with points to be able to set the gap? Thanks!
Sounds great. New points, condenser, coil (yes...it's the correct one)...you're all set.
Here's what I'd try (if you can do it carefully):
1) battery disconnected
2) all 4 spark plugs out
You should be able to turn motor over easily by hand. Different ways to do it if you have room...a strap wrench around crankshaft pulley, socket & ratchet inside pulley on center nut.
If you're unable turning motor over by hand leave plugs out...install condenser & points. Then "bump" starter...crank a split second. A helper would be best while you watch points.
Stop when points rubbing block is on peak of a distributor lobe. Set gap.

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Wow...yes you need to address that manifold hole next. Replacement or repair, either way it needs to be removed. Most likely cast iron which takes special skills welding.
See if you can find a good/used replacement somewhere. You'll need exhaust gasket also.
By looking at picture it may be (how can I explain?) It may be a heat "riser" going up to intake to heat intake in which case removal isn't necessary...it could be rigged possibly by cutting that piece off then sealing it (metal band bent/fabricated) sealed so exhaust doesn't leak.

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I'm with Fredm on the temporary fix. If you cleaned up that hole area, then make a metal patch plate, JB Weld it over, then wire or hose clamp it on...at least it's better than now and may hold until you find a manifold.
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Wow! You did it and congratulations! Thanks for posting about it.
Everyone's different. If you don't mind working on it and fixing things as you go along I think it's great.
If you need a dependable tractor & use it a lot I'd consider trading or selling it, buying new or fairly new.
Good job!

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Hey Cowboy. I did, see pic. But it still is quite hot and feel hot air still but not seeing any other holes right now. I did a bunch of searching for similar manifolds as mine and saw one (2 pics front side/back side) But I'm fine with the patch. Was just curious to see if I could find the same Thanks View attachment 80403

View attachment 80405
View attachment 80406
In picture, and you feeling hot exhaust, looks like the patch blew out. If you used metal JB Welded then clamped around (room for hose clamp?) would be better. An exhaust leak like that certainly affects performance.

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First video...running with choke shut? That's wrong...engine warmed up.
Second & 3rd videos I'm hearing that high pitched sound I assume from exhaust leak (I'm guessing).
I think that's a great machine if you get the bugs worked out.
Running with choke shut...maybe it has a vacuum leak. You must be very careful but if you use things like WD-40 (safest)...carefully spray around carb, see if motor revs up.
But number one priority is getting your exhaust leak fixed. That's dangerous in so many ways...that can burn valves, a fire hazard, fumes, lowers hp, etc.
I believe if you can replace manifold (best) or have that one fixed (cast iron can be welded by a professional), that's going to fix most of your problems.


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Wow! The float mods...what a testimony to a fantastic machine!!!
Seriously getting manifold (replace/repair), carburetor (repair/replace)...that thing will run like a top!

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This is too funny.
I see the manifold on WALMART site
Hey...free delivery, warranty, etc.
Carb kits are available. Looks like parts available lots of places.
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