Tractor Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I take a new (clean) piece of hose over fuel inlet. Blow through it...should of course be no resistance. As you're blowing rotate carb upside down (do this over a box if it's apart to catch parts that may fall out). As floats drop you'll feel it shut off airflow.
I have done it with air compressor set at 4-5 psi using rubber tip blow gun.
If it's flooded pull a spark plug. Wet, it's flooded.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


Ok I’ve had that ole 3414 for a while! I’ve worked on just about every issue you can think of with this thing!

First off let me tell you that a Jeep carb can be bought new for around $80 to replace that zenith. There’s not any replacements to be had really. There was a guy selling his own modeled carb and is on mine. Turned out the quality is crap! You can rebuild them but again it’s about the same as a new Jeep carb.

Do yourself a favor and bypass that mechanical pump and just install an electric pump. 3-4 lb universal. Saves future headaches.

If yours is converted to 12 volt. Check your resistor to the coil. If good check you’ve got fire going to the plugs. It could be a condenser or the points need filed. If there is good fire to the plugs. No need to look further right there. Whoever said replace plugs just cost you $. Hell this thing will chug over and run on one good plug. Ask me how I know🤣.

Now if were are back to the carb issue. Take the fuel line off where it feeds the bowl. Hang it over the side or stick it in a clean glass bottle. Crank the tractor over. See if it’s pumping. If so then it’s the carb.

Now take the top of the carb off. Connect the fuel line. Have someone crank the tractor o we while you press down on the U Spring that holds down the float. See how far the bowl fills up before the needle shuts off the fuel flow. This is time to set the fuel float and fuel level in the carb by bending the tang on the float. This is a repetitive process of removing fuel, cranking the tractor over and checking fuel level.

Make sure before you do any of this that the brass fittings that screw in behind the needle are tight and seated.

Now with the fuel level set there should be no overflow and flooding issues. It’s time to set the carb. Truly I forget the exact process but it’s on the web.

There is a fuel air mixture on the bottom. Likely won’t need to adjust this right away. There’s also a T handle adjuster. Yours might not be a t but it’s facing the tanks and on top. Screw in then back out 2 1/4 turns. It should fire right up. From there this screw can be adjusted to meter the fuel.


This is brief and a quick, crude and poor attempt to help you get her going again. I know how it feels to be at a loss. Good luck buddy I hope Ive helped a little!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I know this reply isn’t going to go over well but it’s solid advice. Your problem was basically answered in the beginning posts. Now it’s great there’s so many chiming in and your able to pick and choose which to sort of hand hold you through this basic problem. Yes basic! It’s an old points carb machine. Get used to filing and gaping points. Condensers go out regularly and these ole resisted coils don’t kast long. With ethanol gas neither does the carbs!

It’s kind of clear you really don’t have much if any experience with engines or at least older types. NOT a bad thing! We all learn and have starting points!

Now none of this is meant to offend you! Although I’m sure I already have! I don’t know a nicer way to reply other than straight out and straight forward!

This particular machine is notorious for having issue after issue. They are great hard working machines that you just have to wrench on them constantly! If IF you can keep it running and know how to fabricate parts nowadays.

A lot of the stuff you just can’t purchase for it anymore! You have to find substitutes and or fabricate parts. There’s not much of any information on them out there. Not many old codgers left to pick their brains either.

Now I’m trying my best to help you! Again.. Not offend you! Do yourself a favor and sell that machine when it’s running good again!

You were lucky and had some hand holding through this one. That’s great! I guarantee you you won’t have it when you start having hydraulic issues! You WILL have them! I guarantee it! Simply because not many remember this type machine and it’s sort of unique.. plus there’s not any info to be had! I think me and one other gent on YT basically own the title for posts on the 3414 there. Between him and I we’ve discussed and dealt just about every 3414 issue there is. From diverter valves, hydraulic banks, pumps, carbs, clutches, ignition, and anything engine related.

Look I get your gonna be like every other guy. It’s your machine and your decision. Why in the hell listen to a random guy on the net. You got this! Right?

Save yourself some money and time. If your not that guy that loves to pour money and wrench time at things. With you saying this is over your head! Welll.... unless you have a well stocked shop. A machine shop. Can fabricate your own items. Etc. I would consider trading or selling this one off.

This is just solid advice and nothing more. Maybe it will last for ya! 😏

Good luck my friend! I’m sure you will find one of my fazzillion Posts over at YT. Sadly I just don’t have time to post on these boards much anymore. I’m sure if you keep that machine eventually you’ll find either the other gent or me again. That is if he even still frequents the forums.

I still have my old 3414 only because if put so much time and effort into it. I hate that damn thing! LOL. I would sell it but I just can’t put that headache on another man with a clear conscious!

Again good luck!
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top