Actually, on hydraulics you want Hairpin cotters and Tractor Supply (TSC) will have them in any diameter (hole size) you require. Usually sold in multiple packs.
Hydraulic line Connectors?
I'm rehabbing this 1957- 330 International tractor which has a front bucket on it.
I'm working on removing the 3 cylinders and getting them re-packed.
To remove a cylinder, I have to release the hydraulic hoses.
This is a frankenstein collection of adaptors/connectors, metal lines, galvanized pipe, elbows, 3-way t connection...ugh.
I have no reason to keep the eclectic collection of connectors -- partially rusted, completely rusted, new ... ranging in size from 7/8 inch, to 1 inch, and larger -- some of these parts are SAE and others are metric.
Hoses on 1 side are original to the machine (yellow overspray paint), those on the other side have been replaced (no yellow overspray paint). And of course, if a 20 inch length of hose is good on one side then a 40 inch piece with a large curve in it is better for the other side.
Bless the soul of the prior owner for being creative and solving the hose connection problem with a minimum of cost and probably a maximum of labor.
What's a better way to solve this problem?
![Fashion accessory Art Tool Metal Illustration]()
I'll have to check the size of the openings once I get the hoses off so I know the minimum size.
JW
I'm working on removing the 3 cylinders and getting them re-packed.
To remove a cylinder, I have to release the hydraulic hoses.
This is a frankenstein collection of adaptors/connectors, metal lines, galvanized pipe, elbows, 3-way t connection...ugh.
I have no reason to keep the eclectic collection of connectors -- partially rusted, completely rusted, new ... ranging in size from 7/8 inch, to 1 inch, and larger -- some of these parts are SAE and others are metric.
Hoses on 1 side are original to the machine (yellow overspray paint), those on the other side have been replaced (no yellow overspray paint). And of course, if a 20 inch length of hose is good on one side then a 40 inch piece with a large curve in it is better for the other side.
Bless the soul of the prior owner for being creative and solving the hose connection problem with a minimum of cost and probably a maximum of labor.
What's a better way to solve this problem?
I'll have to check the size of the openings once I get the hoses off so I know the minimum size.
JW
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
You mean "R" spring pins !!.
I have two sizes hammers I really like for the "persuasion" jobs ...... "BFH's"(3-5lbs) and a "GBFH's"(10-12lbs +). I still have a custom made GBFH I used to drive bent anchor pins out of push-out cylinders on trash trucks. 20LBS head, welded to a 24" handle, made from a piece 1 1/2" steel rod..... I call it "Bertha"
I have two sizes hammers I really like for the "persuasion" jobs ...... "BFH's"(3-5lbs) and a "GBFH's"(10-12lbs +). I still have a custom made GBFH I used to drive bent anchor pins out of push-out cylinders on trash trucks. 20LBS head, welded to a 24" handle, made from a piece 1 1/2" steel rod..... I call it "Bertha"
LOL.......His BFH was a custom made job.......He had someone at some point forge him about a 25 pound head and then weld about a 4 foot piece of 2 or 2 and a half inch pipe to it. Then they weighted it with about 5 pounds of big ball bearings and welded a cap in the end.....So when you would swing it, you got the extra force of the bearings going from the end of the handle to the head......Some major damage could be done with that thing......LOL
When you reach the point of frustration/desperation where you break out a hammer like that, you're beyond the point of worrying about "major damage" and that actually becomes your intent. They have parts houses and make welders to correct the situation for when you finally come to back to your senses, but for that tiny moment..... You get to feel like you won, until you realize you now have two halves of the part
When you reach the point of frustration/desperation where you break out a hammer like that, you're beyond the point of worrying about "major damage" and that actually becomes your intent. They have parts houses and make welders to correct the situation for when you finally come to back to your senses, but for that tiny moment, you get to feel like you won
Yep......And when you are active duty military, Uncle Sam pays for the parts......That was his thought processes.....
Yep..... When I beat the crap out of a part with a BFH... It was never on something that I was footing the bill for the replacement. Nobody ever questioned it, and if they did, I always figured I'd just show them the two halves and say "This is pretty badly worn"
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
