What model Husqvarna? What make/model engine? What do you need to know?
Husqvarna Engine Replacement
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Husqvarna GTH2448T, Briggs & Stratton 44S977-0033-G1.
Swapping the engine was pretty straightforward, but I seem to have lost the pigtail to connect the PTO clutch to the wiring harness. I assume it's ok to cut the quick disconnects out and just wire-nut the ends? Or replace with another disconnect? I thought I had found the correct part online, but it turns out both ends have the same connector as the clutch and harness (that is, I have male/males, instead of male/females). Is there a name for these connectors that might help me locate the correct part?
I believe the new engine has an auto choke. I've read various likes/dislikes, but I'm assuming I'm better off just leaving it, rather than try to convert to a manual choke like the prior engine.
TIA.
Swapping the engine was pretty straightforward, but I seem to have lost the pigtail to connect the PTO clutch to the wiring harness. I assume it's ok to cut the quick disconnects out and just wire-nut the ends? Or replace with another disconnect? I thought I had found the correct part online, but it turns out both ends have the same connector as the clutch and harness (that is, I have male/males, instead of male/females). Is there a name for these connectors that might help me locate the correct part?
I believe the new engine has an auto choke. I've read various likes/dislikes, but I'm assuming I'm better off just leaving it, rather than try to convert to a manual choke like the prior engine.
TIA.
Attachments
You need to make that clutch wiring moisture proof. You can use any number of the water-proof connectors you find on line. I like to use the original OEM connectors that came with the machine when I do engine swaps. In order to do that you need a cheap set of "terminal release tools". These allow you to take the original connectors apart and configure the wiring anyway you want/need. I always make the clutch wiring harness using 12ga wire. The clutch circuit is the highest amp load of anything on the machine while it's running.
![74100]()
You can build wiring harness by going on-line and buying the male/female brass spade terminals they've used on most mowers for the past several years. Look for 6mm terminal connectors with spring clip on the back and they'll clip right into those black, bakelite, connectors you see on most mowers
![74109]()
I hear a lot of complaints from customers about the Briggs Auto choke system. You need the linkage parts and a remote choke cable to do away with the auto-choke. Here's the Briggs linkage part #'s to convert to manual (remote) choke .... 1 x 691022 link rod, 1 x 691021 bracket, 1 x 691024 choke cable clamp. If you can use your existing choke cable, the cost will run less than $15 and takes about 20 minutes. If you take a close look at your throttle control plate, you'll see where it's already drilled to accept the 691021 bracket.
691021 Bracket
![74104]()
691022 Rod
![74105]()
691024 Cable Clamp
![74108]()
You can build wiring harness by going on-line and buying the male/female brass spade terminals they've used on most mowers for the past several years. Look for 6mm terminal connectors with spring clip on the back and they'll clip right into those black, bakelite, connectors you see on most mowers
I hear a lot of complaints from customers about the Briggs Auto choke system. You need the linkage parts and a remote choke cable to do away with the auto-choke. Here's the Briggs linkage part #'s to convert to manual (remote) choke .... 1 x 691022 link rod, 1 x 691021 bracket, 1 x 691024 choke cable clamp. If you can use your existing choke cable, the cost will run less than $15 and takes about 20 minutes. If you take a close look at your throttle control plate, you'll see where it's already drilled to accept the 691021 bracket.
691021 Bracket
691022 Rod
691024 Cable Clamp
Bob - you are a lifesaver. Sorry for the delay in replying. The connecting ends are basically what’s shown in the attached.
Attachments
Red is the 12VDC power from the clutch switch and Black is the ground. The flat black plug has a "lock" that is used on the clutch end, it only will go on one way, and that insures the correct wiring connection at the clutch. If you've lost it, get a new clutch pigtail, and use only the flat 2-prong end with the locking clip. This one has the same color code as yours
Clutch Pigtail
Cut the T- connector off and use water-tight 14ga butt splices(built-in heat shrink) to connect Red on Red, Black on Black to complete the clutch wiring.
Harbor Freight Waterproof Butt Splices $3
Thank you - just to be clear (on my part), I purchased this pigtail to connect the wiring harness to the clutch. It turns out the ends on the pigtail already match what is on the harness/clutch. So essentially these two ends need to connect. It looks like both wires on the harness are black (one heavier gauge) and the clutch blue (there seems to only be one?). What’s the easiest way to tell which connects to which?
Apologize for the confusion.
Attachments
The problem is the pigtail ends are identical to what they’re supposed to connect to.
Attachments
Attachments
Sorry about the been down sick for a couple of days..... Can't tell from your photo it that is a "tee" connector, or flat connector at your clutch. Either way, the clip connection is biased at the clutch(it only goes in one way). The 12VDC power wire is the one below the clip. That would be the top slot of the "Tee", or the slot directly below the clip in the flat connector shown below
Use butt splices to connect on the other end. Should be RED(power) & BLACK (ground). If not use a DVOM, or a test light, to figure out which wire has 12VDC the the key on / Clutch switch on
Bob - thanks again for all your help. The tractor starts and drives fine, but when the PTO is engaged the 20A fuse blows. I can only assume I reversed something? I have not heat shrunk the connectors yet. Any advice?
Also (and this is a long shot) - there is a stray connection that I can’t figure if it‘s meant to be used. The wiring diagram isn’t very helpful. It might need to be connected to the solenoid?
Thanks in advance.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
