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Discussion Starter #1
I have Sears coming out this weekend for a service call related to a host of issues that were not done during my 'free assembly'. So I have been picking the tractor over to make sure everything gets corrected - that is when I noticed that it appears to have the frame twisted some. (DGT6000)
It 'looks' crooked from the front and rear - not a great deal but enough to tell. If I measure the distance from the rear fender to top of tire it is one inch lower on one side (all tire pressure is correct and on level concrete with front wheels straight). My deck gouge wheels ride higher on one side than the other although the deck when measured at front edge seems to be level on each side. Also I have a belt rubbing one of the spindle guards and the rear deck pins are next to impossible to pull out without ripping your arm off. I also have a funny quirk of the tranny slowing down when turning left and I have to wonder if this could have anything to do with it or not.

If the frame is twisted then I'll want another tractor instead of the one I have now.
Would I be within my 'rights' to ask for a replacement tractor?

What else can I check to see if that is the case?

Didn't someone on this board have a GT5000 that appeared to be crooked?
 

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Klein444 Try to only post one topic in one section or you'll get a lot of confusion from repeat posting.
Yeah, from I remember someone else had the same situation. Maybe just assembled wrong. You would really need to find an almost perfectly level area such as a garage floor and re-check tire pressure. Then take some measurements at all four corners of the frame to the floor. and then some about a foot or so down the length of the frame on each side and compare what you find. There may be slight differences due to the way weight is placed on the tractor. If possible remove the deck because with the width of the deck it may lean to one side probably the right and may give the appearance of the whole tractotr leaning. If the measurements to the frame from the ground up are OK then the problem or optical illusion will be in the way subsequent parts were assembled. You may be able to loosen the fender pan for example and shift it enough to make it straighter, the same with the hood. Another way would be to use a long level and check that the floor is level. Then get one of those smaller 5" magnetic levels and stick it on the frame rails and observe the readings as you check it lenghtwise and side to side.
 

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This may be off base and putting the cart before the horse...but doesn’t Sears have a customer satisfaction guarantee, if you’re not happy then your money back or a replacement??????

I would see if something may not be put together right and have them address your other issues and if that doesn’t work then…..New tractor!!! Just a thought.
:confused:
 

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I would start by checking the frame. Until you are convinced it's straight, it really doesn't matter what else is right or wrong.
 

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Ditto on sixchows suggestion to remove the deck..
It’s going to be hard enough finding parts of the frame you can
reference equally on both sides when taking measurements to
the floor, that big deck will only be in the way.
Once I got the deck off, I would also try using a straight-edge
to check the frame.
 

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I would start by checking the floor that you're measuring from. Use that as a baseline. Garage floors are not supposed to be level. You want them sloping toward the door openings or the floor drains (if you have them). I say this because I have a friend that is a carpenter that was putting ladder racks on his truck & he used the garage floor to base his measuring,,,,,then when he backed the truck out of the garage,,,,& looked at the truck,,,,it wasnt level.......
 

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This may be way off base but are the rear tire the same?

One may be 23-inches and the other 26-inch.

This would twist the entire machine out of shape by an inch and a half at the tires.

Just a shot in the dark.

And I would not take too long to decide to return it if you think it is the frame I would show the tech and if he could not fix it have it replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll double check the tires tonight. Good point also about he garage floor. I did not have a chance to remove the deck yet - plus it is so hard to remove. I am assuming that based on the OM when you pull out on the spring loaded pins in the rear, as long as the deck is supported by the gouge wheels, it should be an easy process. I literally have to jerk, pull even get the ole' hammer out to the inside of the pin to get it to release - getting back on is just as much a chore.
So I hope to get some idea tonight by taking some measurements. I'll stick to my guns about the frame if the Tech guy can't resolve to my satisfaction.

If I get a new tractor - then I'll have to go through this all again.

**Last night I did notice on the axle as it comes from the tranny to the rim. The weld on the left side does not completely circle the axle shaft. It does on the other axle. Also there is some play between the axle and the tranny. The wheel is on tight on both sides.

I just have a feeling that I have a bad tractor in more than one area.
 

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I have an LT2000 & the deck is very easy to remove. The retaining pins come out easy & the deck slides right out. Re-installation is a snap.
Since your deck is hard to remove & re-install, you might very well have alignment problems.
 

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Toolman
I think Klein444 has the 54" deck. Should be somewhat heavier and more trouble to slide in and out. Probably being so new the clips are still real tight they get a little easier to remove over time. Some of the clips on mine still require a pair of pliers to remove even when they're only stuck on the deck off the tractor to keep from loosing them.
 

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I know the woes of removing the 54" deck. It is heavy and awkward. I also have an LTX1000 (previous year model to the LT2000), and it is a breeze to remove by comparison.

How do I know this? (You had to ask:D ).

The GT I bought to do the property as my office. I had to buy a new trailer to haul it. The first trailer I bought was 4 x 8, so I had to remove the deck each time I wanted to load the tractor. Not to mention lifting the deck onto the trailer once the tractor was on ... *sigh*. Upgraded to a bigger trailer REAL QUICK!

As for the deck, I might suggest you spray some WD-40 or equivalent on the spring loaded pull pins. They move just that much easier. I have also used a 4 foot strap that I wrap around those pins so I could get a 'running start' when pulling them, and even then it was tough.

Good luck. Here's hoping it's just an optical illusion (in my best Doug Henning voice "thank you, thank you")

SnowMower
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sears came out last Friday. The tech guy was very nice. He fixed everything until we got to the frame alignment issue. We took some measurements with the deck off and it was off. Biggest difference side to side was a little over 1/2" at the frame rail which translated to a definite 'off' look when standing back and viewing the tractor.
I called Sears - they are going to replace the tractor in August. I'll draft letter to Sears that covers the entire experience from beginning to end once I am satisfied with the new machine. I am hopeing for a better 'free assembly' job with the new tractor and for no frame issues.
I'll update the board when the new machine arrives. In the mean time I have the one now to mow with and to appreciate more each time I use it. It is a nice machine and very capable for what I need it to do.

Thanks to all at this board who gave me the information I needed to talk with the tech guy and to talk with Sears - I appreciate the help.

Now if only I can convince them to let me keep both tractors...
 

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gimmi a comealong I straighten the %$# thing out :D
but seriously though decks are heavy I got my 48"off the other day and 10Ga steel is darn heavy, I hung it on the wall on hooks
I could barley lift it up :D
 

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Klien444
I was just curious where the damage was, did you find any kinks or bends in the rails? The frame is bolted together isn't it? Is it possibly just bolted together out of square?
It may be helpful to others to know where along the rails you found the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry for the delay in the reply I have been off the net.

We looked real close at the tractor and could not see any damage to the rails OR body. That was the first guess of the tech was that it may have been dropped while in the crate or off a pallet jack.

So with the deck off and on level ground, tires check for proper air pressure, we measured and found at the rear rails (just inside where the hitch plate bolts up) there was a 2/16" difference from side to side.

Under the tractor at the midway point - right under the dash, from rail to ground there was a 1/2" difference from side to side.

Then at the front the frame rails from about one inch in front of where the front axle passes through the frame it was off a little over 1/2" probably;y about 9/16".

Sitting on the tractor it is the right side that is higher.

As we looked at the measurements I did think that it is a petty to worry about such small differences, however, I don;t want problems in the future. And it is enough to make removing the deck a little harder than normal, the gas cap is off center and ribbing the paint and the deck is hard to get level. Also we noticed that the plate that is between your legs, the one with the stickers on it about e-brake and starting procedures, has a wider gap at the right front edge than on the left front edge.

I am very pleased that they are going to replace it - I will look the new on over before signing off on it.

I did cut again this weekend and it has the power to do what I need, the cut with the 54" deck still seems a little challenged with the taler grass but I'm pleased over all.

If anything I feel bad that I have not changed the break in oil as I now have about 9 hours on the tractor - but it is still golden and holding level. I did not want to drop the $$ on a filter once I found out I was getting a replacement tractor.

Question - DO you think installing the front push bumper could have tweaked the frame? I followed the instructions very clearly that came with the bumper. You do remove four frame bolts (two per side) as part of the installation.

The tech said that it would not be worth trying to loosen frame bolts and straighten out the frame. He did not think the push bumper would have caused the alignment problem if I followed the directions.
 

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I sure would hope that loosening or removing 4 bolts at the front would not affect the frame. If it is enough to do that, then the design is pretty darn skimpy. I have to agree with you and the tech, someone dropped it sometime between the day it was made and the day you got it. It would have to be a pretty sever bump or drop to rack it as much as its out. I have hit some hellacious holes and ruts on my tractors through the years and never racked a frame. At least Sears is replacing it. A difference of 9/16" is a hell of a lot of difference, in something that is more than likely assembled in a jig. I may buy 1/16 or so but not the difference you have. I did measure my deere and its dead on the same dimensions side to side.

There is absolutely no telling what else may wear prematurely with a racked frame, so it was a good decision on sears part. Lots of luck with your replacement, and have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gp;ad to hear that your tractor is dead on. That is the way it should be. I don;t think that the push bumper would cause that problem either. The bolts you remove are not major to the frame integrity and they are removed one at a time then replaced . I did not notice any alignment problems as far as when I put the bumper bolts in the frame holes were aligned just fine. The bumper bolts threaded in with no problem.

My concern was wear on items over time with it being out of whack like that.

This coming Saturday they are scheduled to bring the new one out. I'll update once I get it.

You also make a good point about hitting things while driving without affecting the frame alignment - I've put my old Craftsman through some major ruts and holes and never had a problem. It also has the formed frame not the heavy duty 'rail' frame like the GT have.

All in all if the replacement comes in OK then I'll be happy. I guess I can look at it this way - the hours I've racked up on the tractor so far will be ones I save on my 'new new' tractor.
 

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So far it's sounds like everything is working out well. That's good news, the last thing you need is someone telling you that you caused the problem and they're not going to fix it.
I wonder how another retailer would have handled this. Now I know some will say that the higher end gt's would never bend, that only happens to the box store tractors, but if it was dropped as you suspect that could happen to anything, anywhere, at anytime.
 
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