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Discussion Starter #1
how do you clean a rag top ??? and is there any thing out there that will bring the color back ????

MOTOR

when you hit the gas the motor dies out stays runing just if you gun it not in gear and in gear is it a comprestion (Spelling) leak or not geting gas ????? or air ??
 

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James
For the rag top you need to clean it real good. Try Bon Ami ( powdered cleanser) and a scrub brush. Try to work in small sections back and forth not circles overlap each section and rinse as you go to avoid the cleanser from drying. When you get the top done dry it with a lint free towel and give it some time to fully dry out. When you're satisfied there isn't any water left on it use a vinyl top dressing and a new sponge. Again work in back and forth motions and be sure not to miss any spots. Avoid products like armor-all they never really dry and the first times it rains you'll feel like someone sprayed oil on your windows.

As for the stalling, I guess you mean it stalls under load. If you do a brake rev the car dies? Check the usual things, timing, spark advance, point gap/dwell, spark plug wires, carb, fuel filter if you have one, vacuum lines and intake manifold gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it's runs nice when it warms up if you just seas on the gas it's find (ex you can put it right to the floor and it's fine but if slam it down ex doing a burn out it stalls put new plugs in so it can't be that
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by sixchows
James
For the rag top you need to clean it real good. Try Bon Ami ( powdered cleanser) and a scrub brush. Try to work in small sections back and forth not circles overlap each section and rinse as you go to avoid the cleanser from drying. When you get the top done dry it with a lint free towel and give it some time to fully dry out. When you're satisfied there isn't any water left on it use a vinyl top dressing and a new sponge. Again work in back and forth motions and be sure not to miss any spots. Avoid products like armor-all they never really dry and the first times it rains you'll feel like someone sprayed oil on your windows.

As for the stalling, I guess you mean it stalls under load. If you do a brake rev the car dies? Check the usual things, timing, spark advance, point gap/dwell, spark plug wires, carb, fuel filter if you have one, vacuum lines and intake manifold gasket.
it's does not die it just stalls out but let the gas off it's fine in park you wound not think it would have that much load
 

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It doesn't happen in park, only in drive? Right? Check The acelerator pump on the carb. Looks like a little plunger that goes up and down on the top of the carb. You should still check timing points wires and spark advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
in park and in drive when looking at check timing points wires and spark advance. what do you look for how big of gap should there be and this may sound stuped but what is spark advance ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by sixchows
It doesn't happen in park, only in drive? Right? Check The acelerator pump on the carb. Looks like a little plunger that goes up and down on the top of the carb. You should still check timing points wires and spark advance.
for the acelerator what do look for that goes up and down when gas is aplied
 

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I'm trying to remember what engine tou have was it a chevy 283? I think 2bbl carb? Do you know how to set the gap on the points? Some of the older gm cars had a little door on the distributor that slid up to open. If you have this look inide and you'll see an allen head screw. Connect a dwell meter if you can find one and with the car running and the vacuum line removed from the distributor and plugged adjust this screw to achieve the correct dwell reading. If you don't have the adjustable delco uniset points you can adjust them with the engine off by disconnecting the coil lead to the distributor and removing the distributor cap and rotor. Look down at the points and the lobes on the shaft that open and close the points. Tap the ignition key until you get the little tab on the points exactly on the point of one of the se lobes. Be sure to turn the key off when you get it lined up and then use the correct size feeler gauge to adjust the points. If you forget to turn the key to the off position you will get shocked.
Spark advance is controlled by the plates with springs that you see when you remove the rotor. A goodn timing light will also show spark advance so you can see if maybe the distributor is worn.
When you replaced the plugs did you also check the wires? Are you sure the firing order is correct? Did you carefully do one spark plug at a time to avoid crossing the wires?
 

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The accelerator pump is a little plunger that goes up and down in the top of the carb. Remove the air cleaner and manually move the throttle linkage while observing what happens on the carb. You should see an arm that connects to a rod that goes through a rubber diaphragm on the top of the carb , look to see if the rubber is torn/missing or if gas seems to be leaking around the opening.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hey thanks for the help :cheers: got the problems gone laid some rubber after
 
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