I bought a Husqvarna yth20k46 riding mower. The mower would start and run just fine but the deck mounting bracket was broken out of the deck. I had the mower deck bracket welded back on. So I reinstalled the deck and was going to try mowing with it.
I started the engine and drove it to where I was going to mow. I engaged the mower deck belt and I noticed the belt pulley was barely moving if at all. About that time the engine quit. I thought what heck is the reason for the engine quitting let alone why the blades were barely moving if at all. Mind you all the other times I ran the engine and drove it I never had the belt lever in the engaged position.
I started checking and I had no power to the engine or anything electrical except I had power at the starter solenoid. That figures because the battery cables run directly to the solenoid. Turn the key and no lights or even a click at starter. I found the main fuse and it checked okay not blown.
Further checking when I pushed in the clutch pedal the engine would start but it would quit when I left off of the pedal. I later figured the blade lever safety switch had failed and was probably causing the engine to quit.
I have decided to bypass the clutch and blade safety switches. They are 4 prong plug so I don't know which of the five wires going into the plug need to be cut or tied together. I read somewhere that just cutting all the wires into the plug will bypass the plug. Another said the two inside terminals are connected and can remove the connecting metal or put a toothpick in those two plug terminals. I don't see a metal piece connecting the two inside terminals.
BTW......I trashed the clutch safety switch trying to remove it from the frame. So now I have to bypass that switch. I still have the blade and seat switch to bypass. I wish I had known it was probably the blade safety switch that was bad because then I wouldn't have ruined the clutch switch. Oh well shoulda, coulda, woulda don't mean squat now. It is bypass time now.
I read that factory started using 4 prong plug to keep people from just unplugging to bypass the two wire switches. Supposedly tying the two inner contacts on the 4 prong plug together stopped the bypass by just unplugging it because the two would cause a dead short if unplugged. Supposedly cutting all the wires will bypass the switch.
Anyone care to add their two cents? No need to tell my I shouldn't bypass the safety switches because I am going to do it. I just want to know if cutting all the wires at plug will bypass the killing of electrical power to engine. Every mower I have owned had the safety switches bypassed because they failed.
I started the engine and drove it to where I was going to mow. I engaged the mower deck belt and I noticed the belt pulley was barely moving if at all. About that time the engine quit. I thought what heck is the reason for the engine quitting let alone why the blades were barely moving if at all. Mind you all the other times I ran the engine and drove it I never had the belt lever in the engaged position.
I started checking and I had no power to the engine or anything electrical except I had power at the starter solenoid. That figures because the battery cables run directly to the solenoid. Turn the key and no lights or even a click at starter. I found the main fuse and it checked okay not blown.
Further checking when I pushed in the clutch pedal the engine would start but it would quit when I left off of the pedal. I later figured the blade lever safety switch had failed and was probably causing the engine to quit.
I have decided to bypass the clutch and blade safety switches. They are 4 prong plug so I don't know which of the five wires going into the plug need to be cut or tied together. I read somewhere that just cutting all the wires into the plug will bypass the plug. Another said the two inside terminals are connected and can remove the connecting metal or put a toothpick in those two plug terminals. I don't see a metal piece connecting the two inside terminals.
BTW......I trashed the clutch safety switch trying to remove it from the frame. So now I have to bypass that switch. I still have the blade and seat switch to bypass. I wish I had known it was probably the blade safety switch that was bad because then I wouldn't have ruined the clutch switch. Oh well shoulda, coulda, woulda don't mean squat now. It is bypass time now.
I read that factory started using 4 prong plug to keep people from just unplugging to bypass the two wire switches. Supposedly tying the two inner contacts on the 4 prong plug together stopped the bypass by just unplugging it because the two would cause a dead short if unplugged. Supposedly cutting all the wires will bypass the switch.
Anyone care to add their two cents? No need to tell my I shouldn't bypass the safety switches because I am going to do it. I just want to know if cutting all the wires at plug will bypass the killing of electrical power to engine. Every mower I have owned had the safety switches bypassed because they failed.
