Homemade Wiring. Need Input!

Discussion in 'Craftsman / Sears' started by Canadian95MTD, Feb 6, 2012.

  1. Canadian95MTD

    Canadian95MTD New Member

    13
    Jan 17, 2012
    I have a craftsman lawn tractor. All of the wiring in it is screwed up. It was very hard to find a wiring diargram for it and i started re-wiring it with the intentions of selling it. I have decided to make it into a race tractor so I want to just make the wiring simple. I was wanting to make power go from the battery, to a push button, and then to the starter. That will get it going but I need to find a way to shut the tractor off when I want to. PLEASE give me your input on any of your ideas and if there is anything that will make my system better. Thanks a bunch.
     
  2. ErnieS

    ErnieS Country Biker

    740
    Jun 1, 2011
    Switch the fuel solenoid? if it has one.
     

  3. jhngardner367

    jhngardner367 Moderator Staff Member

    Apr 4, 2011
    Use a simple toggle switch.Run a wire from one side of the switch,to the black kill wire of the armature(coil). The other side of the switch runs to ground. When the switch is closed ( in the "on" position,for lights,etc)it grounds out the spark,killing the engine.when it's open("off" position),the engine will run.
     
  4. Canadian95MTD

    Canadian95MTD New Member

    13
    Jan 17, 2012
    Here is some stuff that I have gotten done to my tractor. I have 3 switches to the left of my steering wheel. The top switch allows power to go to my middle switch (so I don't kill my battery). The middle battery sends power to the solenoid to allow the motor to turn over and start. The bottom switch is a kill switch that grounds the spark plugs. The 3 toggle switches on the right control my lights (regular black switch is not hooked up to anything). The top left switch turns my regular headlights on and off. The bottom left switch turns my fog lights on and off. The switch to the right of the 2 left switches controls my rear lights. Give me any suggestions that you have for me that will make my tractor look even better than it already does.
     

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  5. dangeroustoys56

    dangeroustoys56 Collector

    Jul 26, 2010
    I have one of those i made into a modifed ( more stock then anything) - the steering is horrible on those models and has a ton of slop, the trans eventually locked on me ( luckily not while at speed).

    More then whats been done already still needs to be worked on - unless the ER is a great place to hang out in. For any fast mods, the front axle must be locked solid, and direct steering , lowering ( lower profile tires helps tremendously) - lowering the seat , trans should be pulled out, cracked open, all the old grease removed and replaced with new grease/oil. I use straight lucas oil additive in my mod - its thick, sticky and wont leave any dry areas. Reverse should be removed/blocked off.

    Upgraded brakes should also be used - stock ones wont cut it.

    Ive built a few mods - anything remotely stock wont cut it - it wont be safe at all.
     
  6. Canadian95MTD

    Canadian95MTD New Member

    13
    Jan 17, 2012
    Need more help. I hooked up a switch that goes from the coil to the switch and to the battery. I went to start it and it turned over and when I stopped smoke started to come out of the motor. Did I blow something out or am I doing something wrong? PLEASE HELP!!!
     
  7. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun Member

    515
    May 8, 2007
    What's the Sears 917.xxxxxx number?

    Most likely hooking up 12V to the coil is NOT the thing to do.
    That went out with breaker points ignition systems!
     
  8. Canadian95MTD

    Canadian95MTD New Member

    13
    Jan 17, 2012
    Model: 994.601140
    Serial: 3470S01120
     
  9. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun Member

    515
    May 8, 2007
    The 944.xxxxx is the "Canadian" numbering system which has no obvious cross reference for us mere mortals-
    So-
    We'll have to try to go by engine numbers and hopefully transaxle numbers to try to find the Yankee equivalent.

    IF Briggs, Model & type #'s.
    If Kohler, Model & spec#
    I can see 4000 on the tractor, but can't quite tell what is before it if anything.

    MOST LIKELY, where you hooked 12V to the coil is where the engine KILL wire connects to.
    It's GROUNDED to kill spark.
    Hope you didn't ruin the coil!

    You might try disconnecting it and see if it will run.
    It's just a matter of how you "kill it" if it does.

    Do get back to me on the engine # etc., and I can try to update my home made database.
    It would increase the Canadian section by 50%!
     
  10. ftorleans1

    ftorleans1 New Member

    437
    Jul 11, 2009
    Hello,
    As the other folks stated, you do not want to send any power source to the coil. It will energize itsself. The black wire coming out from under the flywheel, will be your grounding source. It essentially grounds the coil to the engine, killing power to the plugs.... Also, this is really important, make absolutely certain to connect a fusible link to the battery. You can use the old glass style or step up to the modern plastic blade style. Also, this is where alot of folks run into trouble, make certain your fuse is weaker than the wire it will protect... Just as in home electrical fires, folks over fuse the circuit they are trying to protect. Resulting in the wires catching fire before the fuse or breaker blows!!! You don't need to install a fuse between your push button starter switch and the solenoid, just be sure the normally HOT side of that switch is fused AT the battery.
    As for modifications to the tractor for speed, abide by the advice the others stated. I have a 1988 White LT1000 with the older 12.5 Briggs twin engine. I'm pushing approx. 38 MPH out of it. I pulled the original tranny, cleaned the grease out of it, drilled a fill plug, cleaned the case, reinstalled all the gears and assembled the case with silicone gasket RTV. Once installed back on the tractor, I filled the case will gear oil. You will have a slight bit of leakage around the brass shims however, it is minimal. This tractor has the variable pulley drive. I installed a 5.73 max. outer dia. adj. pulley on the engine. I installed a 5" dia. pulley on the trans. Couldn't gain enough speed so, I pulled the original tranny and installed a 7 speed oil filled Peerless tranny. WOW, this baby really kicked up the speed. To be honest, Scary speed!!! Between the original seven speed variable pitch pulley drive along with the seven speed Peerless, it provides 49 speed ranges. With this set-up, you do NOT have to remove reverse... Just don't try backing up in any thing higher than second or third. Also, you will need to fabricate a foot petal throttle. It becomes way to busy trying to keep the tractor on the trail to be worrying about grabbing the throttle. I have 20" rear tires and coming out of a turn on gravel, laying over the side of the seat into the turn, lay on the gas and throw a 12 to 16 foot rooster tail... With the throttle petal, be sure not to exceed what the manual throttle will give. I still have the original throttle operational. I adjusted the foot petal throttle to the point that win it is floored, I still have some excess RPMs with the dash throttle. Engine longevity issue! I also installed an exhaust system all the way back behind the rear tires. Super quite set-up.
    Anyhow, best to you with your Craftsman.....
    Cedar Mill Bumper and Hitch