Tractor Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have tire chains on my LTX. I am using the standard turf saver tires with home made tire chains.

The chains are 2 link which were originally on a smaller tractor or maybe even an old blower. I had to extend the length of the chains, so I add quick links (the kind that open and screw closed). I believe they are wide enough. They buckle about 2 inches around the tire. One of the biggest prolems is that when I put these on, I have to pull them as tight as I can, then use the quick links to attach one end of the chains to the other.

What is happening is that whenever I turn, the chains are riding up. The inside of the chains is actually rubbing the axels at this point.

Any suggestions that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

thanks
BW
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Those quick links are notorious for coming lose. I went out and bought some shackle style links that work really well at keeping them where they should be. The other option is to deflate you tire, install the chains tighter and re inflate your tire to the specified PSI.

That will help out also.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,443 Posts
It sounds like you are not getting the chains on tight enough. I had the same problem with mine the first time out this year. Instead of letting air out, putting them on semi-tight and adding air, I used my floor jack to get the wheel off the ground. I then put the chain on and turned the wheel back and forth to work out the slack. I then tightened it as much as I could... seemed to solve the problem. When I was doing the rollover method, I just could not pull the chain up tight enough. I found that having the chain drapped over the tire and hooking at the bottom worked best. When hooking at the top or side, I just couldn't get ALL of the slack out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,592 Posts
What Works Well For Me

I have been in the woods and slipped a chain .I use a small cable come along. hook it about 5 cross chains back on each side and it holds the chains in place while you get the rest of the cross links lined up straight. You can then latch your chains with ease.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, thanks for the quick replies guys.

At this point, I cannot really deflate the tires as they are full of ww fluid.

I like the bungee cord idea. 2 questions, how many would you need per wheel, and how do you put them on the back so as not to rub the axel?

Also, I saw this at tirechains.com. I guess this is essentially the same as using bungee cords.



BTW, what is a "shackle style link"? Got any pictures. Good advice from everyone.

thanks
BW
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,357 Posts
Can't really put bungees on the back side. If the front bungees will pull the chains off, then the chains don't fit properly and probably will never work right. I would start with 2 bungees per wheel in the shape of an "X". Be carefull that the bungee hooks will not puncture a tire. The chain that makes a circle around the side of the tire should be around 2" +/- closer to the axel than the tread dia on both the front and back of the tire. By tightening the front with the bungee, the whole chain set up should get tight enough that it stays put. I jack the rear axel off the ground when putting chains on so that I can manipulate the entire outer surface in an effort to get them as tight as possible when hooking them up. I haven't need to use bungees as I get them tight enough that they stay in place. I have also had 20 plus years of practice.
 

·
Tractor Lover
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Originally posted by bwiswell
I like the bungee cord idea. 2 questions, how many would you need per wheel, and how do you put them on the back so as not to rub the axel?

Also, I saw this at tirechains.com. I guess this is essentially the same as using bungee cords.



You can use bungees front and back, just dont crisscross in the back.

Those springs are even better, they allow for the axle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
I have used just one bungy also. Oh, and you want to use the solid rubber ones, not the other style.

To get then to work just on the front, attach the inner hook first. Make it a little tight, or a link shorter then you think you will need to. Then hok the front hook. With the rear a link shorter, when you put the bungy on the front, it will pull in nice and tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just wanted to say thanks.

Ingersoll444, I took your advice and think you were bang on.

I used the black rubber one and ran them as you said.

Knock on wood, blew the drive and a bit of the neighbors where the plow buried him, and it worked well. One thing I have decided to try doing in an effort to reduce the amount of side play in the chains is to blow up the drive way, then back down, and do it again. I figure the fewest turns possible will help alleviate any chance of the chains slipping off again.

So, just wanted to say thanks.

BW
 

·
Tractor Lover
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Glad to hear your problem free bwiswell. Hope it holds up the rest of the winter for you.

One thing I've noticed over the years is the chains seem to seat themselves after a few uses requiring retightening as the season progresses. You may want to keep an eye out for that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Originally posted by bwiswell
Just wanted to say thanks.

Ingersoll444, I took your advice and think you were bang on.

I used the black rubber one and ran them as you said.

Knock on wood, blew the drive and a bit of the neighbors where the plow buried him, and it worked well. One thing I have decided to try doing in an effort to reduce the amount of side play in the chains is to blow up the drive way, then back down, and do it again. I figure the fewest turns possible will help alleviate any chance of the chains slipping off again.

So, just wanted to say thanks.

BW
I am glad I could help.:)
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top