The governor does not seem to be working right. The RPM gets very high whatever you push the clutch in. It is a ford 2000 series 4 cylinder diesel. It has been sitting in the field for almost 5 years.
Rickfeath
It's possible that there is simply excessive slop or friction in the pins/linkage leading from the governor to the carb or possibly the throttle lever to the governor. It's not that govenors don't go bad sometimes.... but bad linkages are a lot more common.
Have a look at Messick's at the top of this page to see your governor. Click on parts diagrams, enter your model, and continue from there. The governor is listed in the engine section.
I would expect Messick's to carry rebuild kits for governors, but I don't see one listed.
Follow-up note: Do you have the governor with two arms or just one? (one long, one short). The old style governor with 2 arms must have a spring. Messick's shows a one arm governor, but I've found comments on tractor blogs that the older 2000's have 2 arm governors.
Have a look at Messick's at the top of this page to see your governor. Click on parts diagrams, enter your model, and continue from there. The governor is listed in the engine section.
I would expect Messick's to carry rebuild kits for governors, but I don't see one listed.
Follow-up note: Do you have the governor with two arms or just one? (one long, one short). The old style governor with 2 arms must have a spring. Messick's shows a one arm governor, but I've found comments on tractor blogs that the older 2000's have 2 arm governors.
ejector pump looks like the governor is probably built inside cause it only have 1 lever. It is a Roosa Master model number DBGVCC429--7A J.
Sorry Rick, I was addressing a gasser governor with my above post. Please disregard my earlier comments.
There is a PLASTIC governor ring in your Roosa Master pump that disintegrates over time and leads to symptoms you are describing.
Below is a quote from JDEMARIS on another forum:
"Shattered plastic governor dampener ring sends small pieces of plastic all through the pump and often creates overly high housing pressure - which result in the problems like you describe.
Often leads to engine shut-down.
I had to fix many - out in the woods and field when I was a Deere mechanic. Deere,Case,IH, Ford, AC, Hercules, et. al. all use some versions of the same pump.
A complete seal kit with a new dampener is $12. A person with experience can pull the pump all apart, reseal and put back togeher - in one hour.
There is an updated dampener that can be installed and it will never come apart again - for an extra $40 (EID retainer). Stanadyne used it in all the pumps after 1985.
If your pump has high hours - you can assume it will need a few more parts than just the seal kit - if you want to replace them while apart. Main wear items are -
front drive bushing where the shaft-seals ride - new one cost $10.
fuel metering-valve - $12
fuel pump vanes and liner - $16.
That's about it - most pumps that get "rebuilt" at a Stanadyne-certified only get those parts plus a seal kit. $50 in parts total. Cleaned up, put on a test-stand, fuel delivery and timing advance checked - and then a $350-$650 repair bill.
If you are careful - no adjustments get altered. You can, however, check the max. fuel delivery setting while apart with a 2" micrometer.
Timing advance can be checked on a running machine with a $8 plastic timing window - or a conventional timing light hooked to a piezo-pickup on an injector line. "
There is a PLASTIC governor ring in your Roosa Master pump that disintegrates over time and leads to symptoms you are describing.
Below is a quote from JDEMARIS on another forum:
"Shattered plastic governor dampener ring sends small pieces of plastic all through the pump and often creates overly high housing pressure - which result in the problems like you describe.
Often leads to engine shut-down.
I had to fix many - out in the woods and field when I was a Deere mechanic. Deere,Case,IH, Ford, AC, Hercules, et. al. all use some versions of the same pump.
A complete seal kit with a new dampener is $12. A person with experience can pull the pump all apart, reseal and put back togeher - in one hour.
There is an updated dampener that can be installed and it will never come apart again - for an extra $40 (EID retainer). Stanadyne used it in all the pumps after 1985.
If your pump has high hours - you can assume it will need a few more parts than just the seal kit - if you want to replace them while apart. Main wear items are -
front drive bushing where the shaft-seals ride - new one cost $10.
fuel metering-valve - $12
fuel pump vanes and liner - $16.
That's about it - most pumps that get "rebuilt" at a Stanadyne-certified only get those parts plus a seal kit. $50 in parts total. Cleaned up, put on a test-stand, fuel delivery and timing advance checked - and then a $350-$650 repair bill.
If you are careful - no adjustments get altered. You can, however, check the max. fuel delivery setting while apart with a 2" micrometer.
Timing advance can be checked on a running machine with a $8 plastic timing window - or a conventional timing light hooked to a piezo-pickup on an injector line. "
Here's a procedure from Larry NCKS archived on another forum:
If you've never done one of these, they can be a bit tricky, but I'll try to help. Above all else clean the area off as best as possible. Once you take the pump off the engine clean it again. When you take it apart keep it absolutely clean. I soaked mine in carb cleaner overnight, then rinsed in under flowinc water and blew it out with compressed air.
Remove all fuel and injector lines. If there's fuel in the tank, you'll need a suitable container to catch fuel as it drains from the return line. You can shut off supply line at the bottom of the tank.
Guys that do this all the time say it's not necessary, but I like to have the # 1 cylinder on the timing mark before removal. There is a small cover on the side of the injection pump approx an inch long and half inch wide. It is held on by two really short screws. Remove it. Behind it is a really finely scribed line on the head and on the governor. They can be very difficult to see, but line them up by turning the engine. The final alignment most likely will need to be done by turning the engine with a wrench.
When the marks are lined up, remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the pump to the engine. You will also need to remove the throttle linkage from the pump shaft. Pull the pump up and off the engine.
Fasten the pump in a suitable vise or holding fixture. Be careful not to damage the housing.
Remove the bolts that secure the top cover and remove the cover. Pay strict attention to the linkage and how it is assembled in the chamber under this cover. Remove the long bolt from the backside, the J and C clips from the throttle shaft and remove linkage parts and metering valve from the pump. The final piece of linkage will come out in a later step.
Remove the advance piston assemblies from the bottom of the housing. These are the large hex plugs on either side. Mark these per side, as they are not identical. Remove the plug from the bottom of this chamber.
Now the tough part: If your pump has (and most of them do} the splined stud, you'll either need the special bristol bit tool to remove it, or you can fashion one from a T-45 torx bit. Grind the splines down unitl the T-45 fits the splines of the stud. Don't over grind it. DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT THIS STEP. THE STUD WILL SHATTER AND BE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE IF PROPER TOOL IS NOT USED.
Remove the four screws that retain the charge pump to the back of the head. Notice the orietation of the eccentric pump ring. It is marked CC on one side and C on the other. You'll need to replace it in the same orientation at reassembly.
Remove the two capscrews and the hollow stud that retain the hydraulic head to the housing. Twist/ pull the head from the pump. You may need to get forceful in this step.
The governor assembly is attached to the front of the head by a snap ring. It may not come out as a unit if your governor retainer ring is gone. AGAIN IT IS CRITICAL TO PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ASSEMBLY. It is timed to the head (there are fine marks on the head and governor plate) and the weights and trust washer must go back as they came out. You'll see three rivet looking pegs on this part of the governor and three on the front piece. The rubber retainer ring remnants must be removed and the new reatainer ring stretched around these posts. A small snap ring plier works best to install the new ring. Install the ring with the + marks out. The peg holes are slightly recessed on this side.
The drive shaft can be removed at any time after the pump is off the engine. This shaft is timed to the head as well. Do not get it in backwards. Pay special attetion to the cup seals. The face away from each other. Be careful not to roll the back one as you reinstall the pump.
Assembly is essentially the reverse of removal.
New seal kits are available from any Stanadyne Authorized Diesel shop for around thirty dollars. These include a new governor ring and more orings and parts than you'll find places for.
If you have questions: BrotherBear2188 at AOL dot COM Hope this helps
Several further things I should add:
Take care not to flip the roller cam over. It is directional.
Do not change the settings of the screws in the leaf springs on the rotor. This will change the fuel delivery rate.
The rotor can be removed from the head by taking the clip and half moon keepers off the back end. It should not be neccesary to take this apart for most overhauls.
If you've never done one of these, they can be a bit tricky, but I'll try to help. Above all else clean the area off as best as possible. Once you take the pump off the engine clean it again. When you take it apart keep it absolutely clean. I soaked mine in carb cleaner overnight, then rinsed in under flowinc water and blew it out with compressed air.
Remove all fuel and injector lines. If there's fuel in the tank, you'll need a suitable container to catch fuel as it drains from the return line. You can shut off supply line at the bottom of the tank.
Guys that do this all the time say it's not necessary, but I like to have the # 1 cylinder on the timing mark before removal. There is a small cover on the side of the injection pump approx an inch long and half inch wide. It is held on by two really short screws. Remove it. Behind it is a really finely scribed line on the head and on the governor. They can be very difficult to see, but line them up by turning the engine. The final alignment most likely will need to be done by turning the engine with a wrench.
When the marks are lined up, remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the pump to the engine. You will also need to remove the throttle linkage from the pump shaft. Pull the pump up and off the engine.
Fasten the pump in a suitable vise or holding fixture. Be careful not to damage the housing.
Remove the bolts that secure the top cover and remove the cover. Pay strict attention to the linkage and how it is assembled in the chamber under this cover. Remove the long bolt from the backside, the J and C clips from the throttle shaft and remove linkage parts and metering valve from the pump. The final piece of linkage will come out in a later step.
Remove the advance piston assemblies from the bottom of the housing. These are the large hex plugs on either side. Mark these per side, as they are not identical. Remove the plug from the bottom of this chamber.
Now the tough part: If your pump has (and most of them do} the splined stud, you'll either need the special bristol bit tool to remove it, or you can fashion one from a T-45 torx bit. Grind the splines down unitl the T-45 fits the splines of the stud. Don't over grind it. DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT THIS STEP. THE STUD WILL SHATTER AND BE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE IF PROPER TOOL IS NOT USED.
Remove the four screws that retain the charge pump to the back of the head. Notice the orietation of the eccentric pump ring. It is marked CC on one side and C on the other. You'll need to replace it in the same orientation at reassembly.
Remove the two capscrews and the hollow stud that retain the hydraulic head to the housing. Twist/ pull the head from the pump. You may need to get forceful in this step.
The governor assembly is attached to the front of the head by a snap ring. It may not come out as a unit if your governor retainer ring is gone. AGAIN IT IS CRITICAL TO PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ASSEMBLY. It is timed to the head (there are fine marks on the head and governor plate) and the weights and trust washer must go back as they came out. You'll see three rivet looking pegs on this part of the governor and three on the front piece. The rubber retainer ring remnants must be removed and the new reatainer ring stretched around these posts. A small snap ring plier works best to install the new ring. Install the ring with the + marks out. The peg holes are slightly recessed on this side.
The drive shaft can be removed at any time after the pump is off the engine. This shaft is timed to the head as well. Do not get it in backwards. Pay special attetion to the cup seals. The face away from each other. Be careful not to roll the back one as you reinstall the pump.
Assembly is essentially the reverse of removal.
New seal kits are available from any Stanadyne Authorized Diesel shop for around thirty dollars. These include a new governor ring and more orings and parts than you'll find places for.
If you have questions: BrotherBear2188 at AOL dot COM Hope this helps
Several further things I should add:
Take care not to flip the roller cam over. It is directional.
Do not change the settings of the screws in the leaf springs on the rotor. This will change the fuel delivery rate.
The rotor can be removed from the head by taking the clip and half moon keepers off the back end. It should not be neccesary to take this apart for most overhauls.
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