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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up 1930s Briggs engine from the Farmer's Day - Any help/insight?

Perhaps Kevin will be of invaluable help here with his expertise of engines etc. The engine I found was a little Briggs Type A - 6 Digit with K Carb and original hand crank in great condition. It has great compression, and seemed to be in fabulous mechanical condition. It is a little weathered, and the metal is showing its age. Starting talking to the guy about 8Ns, Model A & T restorations etc and he let me have it for $50 cash-&-carry. I must be a good talker or else he just wanted me to leave...or leave happy. :D -- Got back really late last night --- but will definately post pics up today. ;)

So my questions:

1. What is the first steps in taking care of this new engine --- breaking it down to verify its condition or oiling?

2. What are the steps for recommended restoration (cleaning, overhaul, repainting etc) --- Any one have any original pics or color guide to go with? (decals? black and red?)

3. Any original manuals/service guides exist for this engine?

4. What were these engines used for at that time? Any specific purpose or were they used strictly for whatever you could find a use for them. Insight?

The fabulous ASECC board offers priceless amounts of info on small antique engines - www.asecc.com ----- My engine runs and it still has the original plate with Model, Type, Serial # and Briggs info. Well, thanks again for any and all info and Kevin welcome to this site! It seems like you have quite a deserved following of friends and admirers. Welcome!

Regards,
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My old engine looks just like this restored one from antique small engine site: (will document and photograph unit and my restoration)

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<center><img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/pics/briggsa.jpg></center>
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<center><bold><font size=3>MODEL A -- (1933-1938, 1 - 1 3/4 HP, 2.25" Bore, 2.25" Stroke, L-Head)
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This engine is a heavy duty industrial grade engine. Identifying characteristics are the closed fins on the cylinder head, heavy cast shroud that attaches to the cylinder head using 4 bolts and two straps, and mechanical governor. This engine can have rope, crank, or lever starters with the rope pulley being the most common. The early 5-digit serial no. engines use the type A carburetor and the later 6-digit engines use the type K carburetor.</font></center></bold>
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PROBLEMS:
I am having a problem with my engine. Apparently it doesn't run and I am trying to get the large flywheel off now and locate the points (no spark) --- I want to get to the restoration but it would be nice to know where the unit stands right now. I did drop the carb, fuel lines, tank, air tube/filter and scrubbed down and cleaned all of the parts completely. Reset the carb etc and it is much cleaner now. :D

Still doesn't start. It is not seized --- need to check the compression and report the results. I am ordering an original manual now and should have it in about a week. I need to find out how to get the large flywheel off...Gear puller?

Any ideas/insight?
Andy


:alien:
 

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Before you goto all the work taking off the flywheel I would hook it up th an electric motor and let it rotate for a while with the spark plug out and laying on top of the engine with wire attached... After 10-30 minutes running the points will clean itself and it should start to spark... This works if the coil or condensers not bad... And sometimes the point spring needs re bent ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow. Good idea :idea: -- didn't think of that. I have a comment about this --- if I was going to do a restoration and want to really clean it out that I go ahead and just do it right the first time?

I will try your step to see if it will start properly. Then, can you explain to me how to properly remove the flywheel and access the points, condensor and coil? ---- I assume all of them will need some proper attention and potential replacement. (especially if the rest of the unit is any indication of its need for proper cleaning) --- :D

Thanks, Kevin.

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For years I have put a pry bar under one side of the flywheel and hit a solid strike with a hammer to a fin on the opposite side. Never have I broke one or have ever had one come back broke. I will say not everyone can do this, it's kinda like an art but you'll never do it if sometimes you don't try. Another way is find something to go over the extended part of the crankshaft that is hard but maybe like a soft brass hammer then with the pry bar in place and with help have someone hit the brass hammer and the flywheel will come off. Most all flywheels are on a tapered shaft thereby making it easier to pull on one side to remove. I hope this helps even though it's contriversial.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Amicks, thanks for the good info and for the package you sent. (it is appreciated) --- This is a rather large ~12"+ diameter flywheel so I will see what I can do to get to move. I am not too excited about have to mess with it --- but with it being an industrial HD engine, this flywheel is a BEAST (very thick and heavy) so I dont think I will be able to damage it. :D I really want to try Kevin's plan but I feel like I want to inspect and clean out the whole thing anyway, so I guess I might as well bite the bullet early in on the project and get it done. I looked over at the small engine antique site again and they kept referring to a flywheel tool of sorts that assists in the proper removal --- any ideas or part locations for this one?

Thanks for the consideration and feedback. I will chew on it for a bit and see what happens. :monkey:

Thanks,
Andy
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I use a large copper hammer and a pry bar... The pry bar lifts the flywheel up a fraction of an inch and then you need to really smack the end of the crank hard one time... Little baby taps will do more damage than one big hard hit... Just be sure to use a soft copper or brass or lead hammer. Plastic will not work.
Make sure the pry bar is on solid footing...
 

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I use Kevins last post method but I also leave the nut flush on the end of the crank so as not to damage the threads. I have a lightweight aluminum one on a mower that I am trying to get off now but it is so flimsy that I am gonna take it to a mower shop and let them take it off. I think it has a sheared key but man they make them thin as paper now. (6-HP-Tecumseh):cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks

Thanks again for the wonderful and insightful posts here for the flywheel removal. I have been swamped. I had a day from :devil: yesterday and I just simply did not have the time to stop and put any pics up.

Cheers,
Andy
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Andy,

I have a B&S Model B that I am restoring. I bought a $15 harmonic balance (pulley) puller from Harbour Freight (like Northern Hydraulics, NAPA, etc) that makes removing the large flywheel very easy. It is a good investment that you can use on your future engines. Be very careful trying to "pry" your flywheel off. Do you have the large two-piece Flo-Jet carburetor?

John Phillips
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by John Phillips
Andy,

I have a B&S Model B that I am restoring. I bought a $15 harmonic balance (pulley) puller from Harbour Freight (like Northern Hydraulics, NAPA, etc) that makes removing the large flywheel very easy. It is a good investment that you can use on your future engines. Be very careful trying to "pry" your flywheel off. Do you have the large two-piece Flo-Jet carburetor?

John Phillips
Thanks John. I will go pick up one of these ASAP. Do you have a part number for the one you bought? I am looking to get a few of these engines to restore eventually. They are extremely rare down here in Louisiana but I guess I will just have to ask my friends to look out for them. :) --- Yep got the 2-piece Flo-Jet Type K carb. Any hints of this little devil? Finally got the float sitting right and not binding with the seat and cutting off the supply.
Hey, BTW do you know of a source for a fuel bowl sediment filter and/or did they use gaskets for the fuel bowls or just the filter screen? I cleaned it out --- the screen was horrible and now of course it leaks like a broken dam -- :elephant:

I think I got the antique repair manual from Briggs on the way via my wonderful friend here, amicks (Tony) ---- In any case, thanks for the input --- share some pics and other in the Antique Engine Forum if you can and welcome. BTW, if any of you want to help moderator the antique engine board --- PM me and we will talk about it.

Thanks.
Andy
 

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Andy,

The Harbor Freight part number of my "46 PC Harmonic Balance Puller" is #21420, but any pulller that bolts to flywheel will work. I was surprised how easy the flywheel on my 55 year old Model B came off.

Any B&S dealer can get parts for you, but you need to know the part number. I am still learning.

John Phillips
 
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