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Discussion Starter #1
snow bear uses a polarity reversing switch that is rated for 40 amps and it works great
 

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Discussion Starter #2
another view
 

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In my aera a local guy that sell plows has a brand called Snow Bear. I bet thats it. Probably tought to find snow plow parts in your aera though.:D Maybe Topdj has a web site.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
snowbear.com the switch alone is 44.00 the switch and the housing is 75.00
 

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The handle on this switch is identical to other switches I've seen(through the years). Obviously, someone makes this switch for general applications. No doubt it's available somewhere for half the price of the quoted Snow Bear price. Someday, someone will do the necessary research to find out the brand of this switch. It might be Cole-Hersey.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will take it apart to read manufacturer
 

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Sounds like quyite a lot of money for such as simple switch. No way is it worth that $$$.

Out of curiosity I looked at snowbear webiste, and happened to see something about requiring a "Mount Certificate".what the heck is a mount certificate......a permit to mount and use a snow plow or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I cant find out where to get those switches
they are 44 from snowbear, there is no name on them
I do know its a tuff switch I used it a lot on my plow.

4 wire reversing switch???? round with a metal handle
and threaded hole mount,
 

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I guess I am jumping in late, but it appears to me that that switch is very expensive for a momentary on, momentary on type switch. I used something similar but probably not as heavy gage for an actuator for my fertilizer broadcaster. I have a 5.5hp Briggs mounted almost permanently on the back of my JD 318, so I could not reach the lever to open and close the hopper on the big Brinley spreader. We used a Ford windowlift motor (12volt) and the spring loaded switch which has a neutral position to open and close the hopper. Works like a champ (if I can ever get the distribution rate on the hopper just right). By the way the switch cost about $10 and change at an electric supply house.
 

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deerflugel.
The garden variety 25 amp-rated switches that you are talking about are very common, even Radio Shack has them(for $5). I've been using these on my Bear Linear actuators, they work fine.
BUT, they're not enough for the dump winch that's on the Johnny Bucket Jr. And, I don't want to mess with relays.
So, finding the affordable source for the Snow Bear switch has become extremely important. I hate the original rocker switches which came with the winches.
 

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Why would you not want to run relays? Easy to hook up, and keep the "big wire" runs short, to make them more efficient.
 

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Paul,
For a 12vdc winch motor with 2 wires, on the J-B Jr, you really think it's easy to draw up a circuit that incorporates 40 amp relays which are triggered by a DPDT toggle switch? I'd like to see the drawing and the part number for the relays.....and the cost. I tried, and I failed. Naturally, just the right switch seems like a more suitable solution, especially for the electrically challenged.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really want to find our who makes that switch
its very durable all metal housing metal knob 30+ amp rating
 

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Originally posted by Willie Nunez
Paul,
For a 12vdc winch motor with 2 wires, on the J-B Jr, you really think it's easy to draw up a circuit that incorporates 40 amp relays which are triggered by a DPDT toggle switch? I'd like to see the drawing and the part number for the relays.....and the cost. I tried, and I failed. Naturally, just the right switch seems like a more suitable solution, especially for the electrically challenged.

Well the last winch setup I saw on a truck had I belive two starter selonoid style relays. Not knowing how the wireing works on the winch I could not wire it up. Is it grounded through the case, or just reversing cirict? Yes a HD switch may be the easyst, but not the best way to do it.
 

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40 amp relays aren't that hard to find. VW has them (pn-141 951 253 B). New they're ~$17.00, used ~$5.00. SPDT switches are <$5.00. Wiring them isn't too tough, it should be the same as wiring up a high output headlight harness.

<img src=http://catalog.com/susq/other/images/headwire.gif>

You'd just terminate at the actuators instead of h/l sockets. You'd get your trigger from the SPDT switch instead of the h/l switch as indicated.

Anyway... just a lower cost option.

Angel
 

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CatDaddy,
Just curious, were you aware that the problem consists of energizing just ONE actuator, first in straight polarity and then in reverse polarity, with the same switch?
 
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