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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was gifted a 39 9N (serial # 9N 5222) from a friend who didn't want to put that much work into a tractor. He bought a 5000 and pulled this one over to my house. I have been working on cleaning, painting, troubleshooting and such. So far, so good. Got it running, albeit briefly! It's been upgraded to a 12 v system. I put a new carb, distributor, coil, alternator, resistor, start button, ammeter, oil pressure gauge, and all new wiring. Looking forward to any suggestions, comments and valuable insight from those who have preceded me! Thanks in advance for any help y'all can provide!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Howdy balex0419, welcome to the forum. Looks good, great progress. That's a huge alternator!
Thanks for the welcome, Harvey! It's looking better, but progress is slow. That's the alternator that was on it when I got it...I replaced it with one that was recommended on another website forum. It cranked last week for about 3 minutes, but stalled out. Can't get it to start again, but not really worried about it right now. Concentrating on the rear of the tractor right now. I have both rear wheels off and separated from the rims so I can clean them up and paint them. Also going to go over the brakes and make sure the bearings are fine. Lots to do, but being retired, I have plenty of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What a cleanup and paint make, lookin good balex0419.
Thanks...this is my first attempt a a restoration...had to do quite a bit of welding on the hood and side panels. Everyone said to bondo it but I wanted to do it right. There is a little on there to make it smooth, but mostly it's still metal. I wire brushed the engine and front part of it back to the trans split. Then I just used my vast rattle can experience to give it a "factory finish"! LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, guys I need help. I'm in the process of rebuilding my brakes. The right brake has no pedal at all. I've got the wheel off and have loosened the 6 11/16 nuts that hold the backing plate. The whole axle/brake drum wants to come out. I reattached one nut, backed off the brake adjustment and cannot get the drum to come off the backing plate...I've researched extensively and everyone seems to just beat the daylights out of it! Is that the secret? I've not seen a video for a 9n specifically, so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong. Through messing with it for the day and going to enjoy a cool adult beverage to soothe my anger! Any help would be appreciated!
 

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That's what I had to do, pound it off the shoes. I think I tried to shoot WD40 in there and let it soak awhile but I don't think it got to where I needed it. That bushing that the pedal shaft goes through on the backer plate was seized up so I pressed it back away from the backer plate enough that I could cut it free. I bought one of those 1" split collars with two Allen head bolts to replace it. I cleaned that bushing up with a round brass brush and it looked good to go with some graphite grease.

Wood Gas Automotive tire Machine Building
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the response! All great ideas...gives me a plan of attack! Appreciate the photo also, I'm soooo going to build a press like yours! I'll post updates on either my success or the photos of the bonfire with the tractor in the middle!
 

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I was wondering why the Right brake pedal was laying on the deck...

Probly need to loosen the shoes......Yea thats probly not going to happen...easily.

Keep in mind....The axle nut is supposed to be tight...like 450# tight....not snug and backed off like a wheel bearing Nut.....Tight or you ruin the Drum.

Your new carb.....If its china it will give you fits on Hills......lots of info on that fix is out there.

Machine is looking good.....Hope your on flat ground as even new brakes on these are less than stellar
plus the fact you can't use both brakes and clutch without 3 feet.
Front end is Light...always have something on the rear as there is NO Rops.
Tiller ,blade ,mower...anything to keep it from flipping if your on any hills.

Thats all I got for now....thanks for saving another from the scrapper.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update...finally got the two fenders off...after much grinding, cutting and choice 4 letter words. Now I'm faced with rust damage along the bracing where the sheet metal contacts the supports. Planning on welding up the holes after dealing with the rust. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Hoping I can do this along the lines I did with repairing the hood. Still messing with the brake drum, but it's on the back burner right now. I think I'm going to get it finished, then load it up on a trailer and get a local mechanic who has experience with tractors to look at it and maybe fix my start but no run condition.
 

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How'd you repair that rust Balex?
I'm glad mine wasn't that bad, I would have had to go buy another welder.. Because I don't like bondo! Only if I really had to, body hammers work wonders!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the compliment, Benny! Having never done anything like this before, I did a lot of online research and asked questions. The way I did this, and I'm sure there will be those that will say it's wrong, I first put a wire wheel on my grinder and brushed away most of the rust and destroyed metal. I then poured vinegar on it (supposed to halt the process). I took my dremel and cut the ragged parts off with a cutoff wheel. When I had it all cleaned up, I took my welder and using fairly low heat and a fairly fast feed, started adding metal to the holes (starting from the edges working my way in). In spots where there was a large hole, I made a backer, using a 1/2" copper pipe pounded flat, and held it behind the holes. This will act as a backer plate and a heat sink which will allow the weld puddle to build up instead of just burning up the metal. These hoods are made from old timey good metal so if you just go slow, it'll work. Now that the Thanksgiving holiday is over and the weather is moderating a little, time to attack those fenders and brakes!
 

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Wait.. i may be daft but where are the pics of the fenders after the welding? Ive never tried to close up more than about a 1/2” hole like that, but ive also never used a copper backer so im very interested to see post-weld, pre-paint pics if you got any. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don't worry...your sanity is intact...I haven't completed the fenders yet...The weather has been rather putrid so I've had to hold off. I have cleaned up the rust and all that's left is the welding. I'll post the pics when I'm finished. I've got some pics of before and after on the hood...I'll post them shortly.
 
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