Any idea how many hours the unit has on it? Is it blowing any type of smoke when it does this?
Garden tractor losing power
Husqvarna LGT 3654 with a K66 trans swapped into it 2 years ago. Kohler 7000 engine.
Ran fine last week. When going uphill yesterday with my mower deck engaged, or when mowing denser grass (6 inches), the engine RPMs would drop and it would almost stall out. If I switched off the deck then power would return so it's not the transmission.
Edited to add:
Also, there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface, whereas it used to be fairly smooth about the transition.
I replaced the air filter and fuel filter, that didn't solve the problem. Spark plugs and oil/filter were done about a year ago, I'm gonna swap those anyway, but the oil color is fine and levels are ok. Mower belt is less than a year old and was not a cheap knockoff, it's the real deal. Battery less than a year old, maintained on a trickle charger. No issues starting it up except when I replace the fuel filter it takes a few cranks.
What should I look at next?
Ran fine last week. When going uphill yesterday with my mower deck engaged, or when mowing denser grass (6 inches), the engine RPMs would drop and it would almost stall out. If I switched off the deck then power would return so it's not the transmission.
Edited to add:
Also, there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface, whereas it used to be fairly smooth about the transition.
I replaced the air filter and fuel filter, that didn't solve the problem. Spark plugs and oil/filter were done about a year ago, I'm gonna swap those anyway, but the oil color is fine and levels are ok. Mower belt is less than a year old and was not a cheap knockoff, it's the real deal. Battery less than a year old, maintained on a trickle charger. No issues starting it up except when I replace the fuel filter it takes a few cranks.
What should I look at next?
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
It's got just shy of 150. A little smoke, not much at all until it is really almost stalled out.Any idea how many hours the unit has on it? Is it blowing any type of smoke when it does this?
Should I take the carb out and clean it?
Also, there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface, whereas it used to be fairly smooth about the transition.
Also, there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface, whereas it used to be fairly smooth about the transition.
I am going to let BobDriver or one of the other small engine guru's weight in on this but it sounds to me like a fuel or a compression problem.......
I appreciate your inputI am going to let BobDriver or one of the other small engine guru's weight in on this but it sounds to me like a fuel or a compression problem.......
You are welcome......I try not to give advice on things that I know there are folks way smarter then me on the subject until after they have weighted in........I realize that this is not a game and most folks come here looking for advice then they go try that advice......I would not want to tell them something that makes their situation worse.....
That's the way it should be!You are welcome......I try not to give advice on things that I know there are folks way smarter then me on the subject until after they have weighted in........I realize that this is not a game and most folks come here looking for advice then they go try that advice......I would not want to tell them something that makes their situation worse.....
I just noticed the fuel filter is only half full right after running it, gonna see if there's a leak i'm missing
It seems like the deck is loading the engine up when engaged, you may have a bearing or two starting to seize and this will load the engine, can I suggest you remove the drive belt from the engine pulley and check each blade spindle for free spinning, and also check any belt idler pulleys for free spinning, if all bearings are ok then there could be a fuel problem with
the engine.
Some fuel filters will fill up and some don't, the fuel will be running through.
Do you work the engine at full governed revs when working the mower??.
the engine.
Some fuel filters will fill up and some don't, the fuel will be running through.
Do you work the engine at full governed revs when working the mower??.
Hi Fred,
Already did that (and replaced the spindles last year). Deck seems fine. I got a new fuel pump to install (it was only like 25 bucks).
Yes I always operate at full rev.
Already did that (and replaced the spindles last year). Deck seems fine. I got a new fuel pump to install (it was only like 25 bucks).
Yes I always operate at full rev.
Does the exhaust note sound sharp or does it sound flat??, have you noticed if the engine seems to be running hotter than normal?.
Dunno, when it stops raining I'll check it out!Does the exhaust note sound sharp or does it sound flat??, have you noticed if the engine seems to be running hotter than normal?.
I can't tell that it's running hotter than usual. Exhaust sounds about the same I think.
Swapping fuel pump did not solve the problem. Add in now too, on cold start I get some hard start noises and it is sluggish to turn over. If it's warmed up it's fine.
Swapping fuel pump did not solve the problem. Add in now too, on cold start I get some hard start noises and it is sluggish to turn over. If it's warmed up it's fine.
I doubt the carburetor is the issue unless you have a hard time starting it. That being said, it's an easy thing to do and might be worth the time and effort. But before you do that, perform a compression test on each cylinder.
I had the same issue happen to my Toro 26 horse a few years ago. One of my cylinders had much lower compression than the other. One of the push rods was somehow bent. I replaced the push rods and lapped the valves while I had the head off.
I had the same issue happen to my Toro 26 horse a few years ago. One of my cylinders had much lower compression than the other. One of the push rods was somehow bent. I replaced the push rods and lapped the valves while I had the head off.
I pulled the valve covers and didn't see any bent pushrods. Lash seemed ok too, though I don't have a feeler gauge. I doubt the carb too, as it does start up pretty well and I can dump a ton of carb cleaner in there while running and it doesn't die on me.
I'll try to check compression next. Another friend of mine wondered if the oil pump might be the culprit, I've no idea if that's realistic or no.
I'll try to check compression next. Another friend of mine wondered if the oil pump might be the culprit, I've no idea if that's realistic or no.
I don’t know about the sluggish and noisy starting but what condition is the fuel tank? is there a filter inside on the petcock, if there’s rust or crud in the tank it can impede flow.
"If I switched off the deck then power would return so it's not the transmission".
"there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface"
Let's see..... You pull a certain button on the dash, the engine speed drops way off? Going up a hill mowing 6" high grass, the engine starts to lose power, but if you push that same button to the off position the power returns to normal? Sounds a lot like there may be a problem with what's hooked to the other end of that button
Make sure there is not mowing debris (rope, string trimmer line, wire) wrapped around the driveshaft and restricting the clutch. Also check the spindles to make sure nothing is wrapped around them above the blades and causing excessive drag on the deck operation. Is the clutch mounting bolt, or the torque arm loose?
Electric clutches can not only get to loose, they can also on occasion get to tight. When they get loose, they slip and get hot. When they do get tight, they bog the engine down. Husqvarna likes to run Ogura clutches....... See the slots and the spring loaded nuts in the photo below? .015 feeler gauge goes in the slots and you adjust the clearance with the spring loaded nuts. Might want to check that clutch gap. Sluggish crank speed and smoke on start up of a 150 hour Kohler 7000 would have me adjusting the valves. There's another excuse to buy a feeler gauge set.
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"there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface"
Let's see..... You pull a certain button on the dash, the engine speed drops way off? Going up a hill mowing 6" high grass, the engine starts to lose power, but if you push that same button to the off position the power returns to normal? Sounds a lot like there may be a problem with what's hooked to the other end of that button
Make sure there is not mowing debris (rope, string trimmer line, wire) wrapped around the driveshaft and restricting the clutch. Also check the spindles to make sure nothing is wrapped around them above the blades and causing excessive drag on the deck operation. Is the clutch mounting bolt, or the torque arm loose?
Electric clutches can not only get to loose, they can also on occasion get to tight. When they get loose, they slip and get hot. When they do get tight, they bog the engine down. Husqvarna likes to run Ogura clutches....... See the slots and the spring loaded nuts in the photo below? .015 feeler gauge goes in the slots and you adjust the clearance with the spring loaded nuts. Might want to check that clutch gap. Sluggish crank speed and smoke on start up of a 150 hour Kohler 7000 would have me adjusting the valves. There's another excuse to buy a feeler gauge set.
Probably not the problem but remove the spark plugs using a wire or long screwdriver carefully turn the engine and check if both pistons are moving. Have had customers bring in twins and say "tune it up, it's low in power" Only to find one rod broken and engine was only running on one. You may also be able to hear it when trying to start the engine. Does the engine turn over as a twin or a single? Do you get a bump bump on each revaluation or just one bump, listen closely.
Of course there could be a bad clutch, idler, bad spindle or other mechanical issue.
Of course there could be a bad clutch, idler, bad spindle or other mechanical issue.
Sounds like you have a twin running on one cylinder. You need to run it at idle and pull each plug wire off, one at a time, using insulated pliers. If one side makes no difference, that is the bad cylinder; the other side pulled off should make it stall.Husqvarna LGT 3654 with a K66 trans swapped into it 2 years ago. Kohler 7000 engine.
Ran fine last week. When going uphill yesterday with my mower deck engaged, or when mowing denser grass (6 inches), the engine RPMs would drop and it would almost stall out. If I switched off the deck then power would return so it's not the transmission.
Edited to add:
Also, there's a pretty sizeable loss in speed upon engaging the deck on a level surface, whereas it used to be fairly smooth about the transition.
I replaced the air filter and fuel filter, that didn't solve the problem. Spark plugs and oil/filter were done about a year ago, I'm gonna swap those anyway, but the oil color is fine and levels are ok. Mower belt is less than a year old and was not a cheap knockoff, it's the real deal. Battery less than a year old, maintained on a trickle charger. No issues starting it up except when I replace the fuel filter it takes a few cranks.
What should I look at next?
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
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