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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i was planning to get some plywood 4*8ft
3/4" thick sheets for the floor above my garage
see pic: This boards would be nailed into the above ceiling


<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=37259>

Plywood cost 35$/sheet at my home depot - kind of pricey.. i was just gonna do 3-4 sheets for now...


But For Free:
I have access to a bunch of (free) 1 foot wide * 8 feet long 3/4" thick plywood boards



I was thinking about using the 1*8 boards on the upstairs floor, but i was wondering about stength of the boards?

The way the floor supports run, i thought the 1 ft boards would not be as strong as a 4 ft wide board.. i was thinking about the 16" support boards below....

do you think the one foot wide boards are ok?

do you think they would be ok for the floor or would i only want to use them for shelving.... and use 4 ft wide floor boards not the 1 ft wide boards..
 

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I would say put a few of them down and walk on them and see how it feels. If it feels OK i don't see a problem with it.
 

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I'd use one or two 4' x 8' at the stairs where the most foot traffic would be and the 1' x 8' out where things will be setting. Once nailed in I doubt you will feel much difference and both should stop the side to side swing of the trusses. Just use plenty of nails to help prevent warping with weight over time and some joints lifting up.

Mark
 

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I'm fairly certain the one foot boards would do it. I would suggest attaching a strip of wood underneath the 1X8s, in between the joists.

I helped a friend build a playhouse. The decking was 6" wide and 5/8" thick. When I walked on it, I was certain I was going through. Once we attached a strip of wood underneath, tying them together, it firmed up real nice. Took my 230 pound frame with no problems.
 

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Spikes right....the reason why flooring is T&G is so it will be sturdy when you walk between the joists or in your case the 24" OC bottom chord.....If your going to use this attic space extensively, bite the bullet now and do it right...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
spike & randy, what do you mean.. a little strip of wood going across the 1 * 8's like strapping wood? what size 2" by 1/4 or 1/2 inch??

BTW: the 1*8 boards are not tongue and groove.. they are leftover boards from 4*8 sheets of plywood that were cut to 3*8 shelves...


I guess i could put the 1*8s down and then from below put the strapping between the 1*8s what is the reson, is it so sort of 'connect ' the 1*8s together? how many would you use for each 8 foot board?

and just heavy duty staple or tack them in?


if i went with 4*8 sheets

i planned to use 3/4 could i get away with 1/2 inch? i was thinking about all the added weight of the 3/4 plywood - is that not an issue?
 

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If you are stacking boxes and stuff, you don't need a wall to wall floor. I did the same in one section of my attic of the garage. I use scrap 2 X 4's and scrap 1 X 4's. The thought is that you are going to stack some stuff there and not be using it for regular foot traffic.

I would playwood a big section at the top of the access area. Maybe put another small section of plywood down, but the rest I would leave it alone. Then when needed, you can just put 1 X 4's (or 8s) down every six to ten inches. You just need enough of a bridge between the joist to hold boxes and stuff.
 

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Hey tisenberg i know this isnt the right thread for this but have you put your lattice up yet.:winky: :lmao:
 

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I need to call him today i talked to him friday and he said they hadnt come in yet. I think he forgot to order them or he sold them to somebody else.:confused:
 

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Originally posted by simple_john
spike & randy, what do you mean.. a little strip of wood going across the 1 * 8's like strapping wood? what size 2" by 1/4 or 1/2 inch??
Lets say you put four 1'X8's together on the floor so it looks like a 4'X8'. Put some 1"X2" strapping across them and secure. I would place the strapping where they would line up in between the joists.

I don't think staples would do it. Some small wood screws would be the best.

By doing this, you could step in the middle of one of the 1'X8's, and the other three would help take your weight.

Understand?
 

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I would have to say I would save up and put down the 3/4" tongue and groove. It is more expensive but in the end you will never have a worry, Like I said before, I would put down liquid nail as I put each sheet down and remember to stagger the joints. I hope that makes sense. I was thinking screws might be a nice touch instead of nails, it might reduce any creaking and hold better. We used to use galvanized 8d nails. we used to nail the sheets about every 8" the full width of the sheet. The seams are tough sometimes but a good straight cut is important on the half sheets. I hope this helped and didn't confuse you!!!
:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
no simple johns is a boxer.. shes the best dog ive ever had... (we all say that though, right?)


She is going on 10 years old and still acts like a puppy.. ive had 2 other dogs.. both bulldogs.. both died at 4 years old...

My boxer; cassius or cass runs like mad and is great with kids..

She is a horrible watch dog and would probably go home with any intruder.. but a great great dog..
one drawback.. she jumps on you when she sees you.. they all seem to do that.. very excited and happy to see people.. and she absolutly hates other dogs.. If she sees one, she is at it trying to kill it.. no matter how big or small.. no idea why, shes been like that since she was a pup...

<img src=http://www.apartofme.com/images/MVC-341X.JPG>
 

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Don't know why my email was addressed to Jody. I addressed it to Moderator/Mega-Whore-Slut-Poster...and when I looked at it later, it said Jody. Wonder what that means.

I've amended my last post.

Awesome dog. Though she might not be a good watch dog, she certainly looks like one. That does a lot!
 

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Originally posted by Stewart
I would have to say I would save up and put down the 3/4" tongue and groove. It is more expensive but in the end you will never have a worry, Like I said before, I would put down liquid nail as I put each sheet down and remember to stagger the joints. I hope that makes sense. I was thinking screws might be a nice touch instead of nails, it might reduce any creaking and hold better. We used to use galvanized 8d nails. we used to nail the sheets about every 8" the full width of the sheet. The seams are tough sometimes but a good straight cut is important on the half sheets. I hope this helped and didn't confuse you!!!
:D
I agree. This is the route I would take...if I had the funds.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
spike one more thing.. that dog is so gentle around little kids its amazing.. ive got a young nephew and other young kids (under a year) the dog quivers when she gets near them.. she is so gentle its weird to see, but she quivers and tries to get a close sniff or lick them a little.. but wont jump on or try to climb up onto them or anything at all...

the 2-3 year olds poke at her and pull her ears/ drag her by her collar ect and she loves it..

the bigger kids (4 - whatever) climb all over her and go for rides etc.. and she digs that too.. great dog with kids...


also for the 1st 4 years of the dogs life i lived in the city where she was kept in a 10*12 room all day while i worked.. no problem being in a smaller area with no yard at all.. of course now she loves it out in the country...
 

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Originally posted by simple_john

i planned to use 3/4 could i get away with 1/2 inch? i was thinking about all the added weight of the 3/4 plywood - is that not an issue?

Now that we have this thread back on track:D

John, John, John, John, John.....you just spent the money to put up a high quality building and now you want to breech that integrity by installing inferior materials to save a few bucks.

For flooring, 3/4" is the minimum you should use. Your receiving joists are 24" OC giving you 22 1/2" between each one. The normal floor joist is 16" OC or 14 1/2" between each one. You do the math, which one is going to give more deflection in the flooring material?

If you have a tremendous amount of these 1 x 12 x 8' pieces of plywood then you might consider running them diagonal (45* angle to the joist), but im still not sure with it being plywood that that would gain anything.

Again, save up the money, buy 3/4" tongue and groove plywood and do it right.
 
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