[thepumpguysc]

It’s very possible that the head and rotor in the pump is worn and not creating enough fuel pressure at cranking speed.. it’s very common on engines of that vintage..
I’d b happy to take a look at it for you..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yeah, we’re getting hit pretty hard right now..
We had lost electricity for an hour and just got it back.. I was putting on my shoes to fire up the generator when it came back on..
After 35+ years of doing these pumps, I can look at a h & r and tell u weather it’s good or bad..
I’ve never heard of putting a gauge at the end of a line..??
U can pull an injector and turn it upside down and tighten it back up to the line and crank the engine to see if it pops off..THATS a legitimate test..
NOTE:: DO NOT be near the spray pattern zone.!! The atomized fuel WILL penetrate your skin and give u blood poisoning..& it’s off to the ER for you..
Try the injector trick and get back to us..

 

[thepumpguysc]

No damage as far as I can tell..
Tomorrow will be the inspection day.. still to nasty out to tell..
By chance does this engine have a supply pump on it.??
If yes, unhook the inlet to the pump and check the flow while cranking into a 5 gallon bucket..
U would have to do that test first thing, because you’ve already cranked it and got fuel up to the pump..
I’m thinking that IF it had a supply pump, bad valves would allow it to back leak to the tank and it would take forever to start..

 

[thepumpguysc]

If you’d like, ship it to me.. I’ll do a no cost tear down and let u know if the h&r is bad.. if it is, all u have invested is the shipping to me and u can buy an aftermarket pump and leave the bad one with me..(no $ in return shipping)
That way (hopefully) u can quit using starting fluid.. and ruining your engine.

 

[thepumpguysc]

That’s a hellofa nice offer.!!! But we made it thru just fine.. lots of leaves and branches in the yard but no damage..
Thanks again for the offer..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Speaking of tornadoes.!!!
Last year or the year before we had 1 jump right over us and hit the guy across the street.. Not to much damage but took out 100 yr old oak .!!
& wouldn’t ya know it, it fell on a transformer and blew out the neighborhood..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Not really.. maybe..?? Lol
They are 2 different systems in 1 wrapper.. hi pressure & low pressure..
The transfer pump is low pressure and the H&R is hi pressure..
U can “try” anything u like..
With the cost of a 4000psi gauge, u can buy a 100.00 compression tester from Harbor Freight..& send me the pump, 16.00 usps..

 

[thepumpguysc]

If your compression is over 300psi on each cylinder.. it’s ok..
IF NOT, it’ll never start without “help”..
I’ve seen’m start at 290psi but it had a reduction starter and took “forever” to start..

 

[thepumpguysc]

It’s a combination of SPRAY PATTERN & OPENING PRESSURE..
They’re all different..
DO NOT start mixing injectors in different engines.!!!
IF u do, u stand a good chance in burning a hole in your pistons AND/OR washing down the cylinder walls and destroying your engine..
The smart money says to send the injectors to South Carolina to get them checked and o/h if necessary..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Moving the pump CHANGES the time the fuel is injected into the cylinder..
either earlier or later..
U DONT want to advance the timing to much, THAT creates all sorts of different problems.. mainly over heating.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Not more fuel.. same amount, just injected earlier..
If I had a new pump sitting there, I’d surly put it on to see if it made my engine work..
At the very least, I’d compare timing lines on the mounting ear.. that way u can make an informed decision as to which to use on your pump..
Good luck

 

[thepumpguysc]

“I” would try anything that didn’t cost me money..
What do u have to lose pulling the valve cover and checking a couple valves.??
Your right about the pump, if it seizes, it will lock up internally and allow the engine to freewheel..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Go to the resource/manuals section and download a manual.

 

[thepumpguysc]

It’s very possible that the advance is stuck.. I’ve been running into THAT on the last 3 pumps that were gummed up.
I had to take them apart with a hammer and punch.!!
If u think about it, the advance is at the very bottom of the pump..& all the garbage settles to the bottom..
If u plan on removing the 15/16” advance cap.. loosen w a wrench and then, use your fingers to finish..
HOLD PRESSURE ON THE CAP.. so u don’t lose anything that might pop out..
Depending on which cap is accessible, the SPRING CAP or the PISTON CAP..
The spring cap will have a small screw in the center (5/16).. If THATS the cap that’s accessible.. it’s going to have springs and shims in the cap.. DO NOT LOSE THEM..
Set the cap down and don’t turn it over and lose the shims..
Now reach in with a MAGNET and see if the piston will come to you..
If it’s the piston side u remove.. simple push the piston against the spring and see if it’ll return..
Good luck..
BTW: u moving the pump 2 lines = 4*..
THATS excessive.. BUT as long as it’s not “clacking” or overheating.. and it’s starting.. I guess it’ll be ok.??
”something” isn’t right tho..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes..

 

[thepumpguysc]

If u still have your old ones.. lock it in a vise ON THE EARS.. use a 3/4” wrench to unscrew the nozzle nut and write down the # that’s on the nozzle..
Now do the same w the NEW ONES..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Your right, those numbers aren’t gonna do u any good.
If he bought them online, I can tell you right now, they’re wrong..
Give me your pump number AGAIN & I’ll look thru my notes to see if I can give u an answer..
Give me the old pump number AND the new replacement pump number..