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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me 1st say I don't know what is the correct word is or the difference is between hydraulic controls and remotes?

I have a 1969 Ford 4000 and it has a dual(2 levers)(4 hose connections) remote/control.
How much value should that add to a tractor?
Is this stock for this year?
I looked online and can't find anything to tell me if I have a rare Gem or just an add-on some one added?
Dose anyone know if the remotes can be put on to other Ford products and if they could handle them?
Here's some pics.
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What you have is a remote hydraulic tap, of the power beyond variety, grossly incorrectly plumbed.

It appears to be what is called a two feed power tap with a kludge of very dangerous pipe attached.

It should be plumbed with hydraulic hose or hydraulic piping.

As for the value, as it sets I would not get near it with the tractor running. The tap is not of particular value as they are considered obsolete and have been replaced with a more modern tap that contains valves so the pressure ports can be controlled.

To fitment, it would likely fit the following: Ford 600, 800, 601, 801, 2000 (1962-64, 4-cyl), 4000 (1962-64, 4-cyl), 2000 (1965 & up, 3-cyl), 3000, 4000 (1965 & up, 3-cyl), 2600, 3600, 4600, 2610, 2810, 2910, 3610, 3910, and 4610. It would also fit most of the industrial models originally based on the 3000 and 4000 series ag tractors.
 

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Most people just call them remotes.
Yours would be called a dual remote.
They were an optional item on a Ford and as said, will fit just about every under 70 hp Ford built from 1955 through 1983 and in some cases beyond.
They are by NO means obsolete, in fact they are much sought after. A used single valve generally sells for $150-$250 and a dual sells for $300-$500.
Surprisingly, they do not add that much value to the tractor come sale time. Maybe they add half that much. You could sell it easily on Craigslist but you would need to replace it with a blank cover - about a $25 item. Or if you sold it make the buyer throw in his cover. If you sell it sell the bolts with it as they are an odd length. If you trade, trade bolts too.
There were several types and brands of those sold over the years. The style you have, while not manufactured by Ford, was the brand that most dealers sold when the tractor was new and repair parts for them are still sold by New Holland.
You can still buy a new Ford style remote valve today but they are Very high priced. Like upwards of $1200 for a dual.
If you have no use for it I would still not get rid of it.
Consider putting a hydraulic top link on your tractor.
They are very handy.
I agree that one us very crudely plumbed. If you dont plan to use it I would just remove all the extraneous piping and put pipe plugs in the fittings that bolt into the ports.
 

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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is a mess but i had no idea it was a hydraulic pipe bomb.
As i mentioned before the previous owner did a lot of repairs in a cheap way. You do what you have to for a short while but when it comes to something exploding under my butt I make sure my heirs are covered. Any suggestions on how it was done from the factory? Like I said I cant find any pics.
I need to do it as cheaply as possible.

Thank you for saving my literal Butt.
O.M.F.
 

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If you aren't using the remotes for anything there is no pressure on those pipes.
It's only when you pull a handle that they are pressurized.
If you were trying to lift a real heavy wheel disc or something that is another story.
I ran a couple of galvanized pipe fittings on my tractor for years to my hydraulic top link.
One finally did crack and leak but that was from vibration not pressure.
 

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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you, I was thinking I had to run out and get new hoses before I used it again. I haven't been able to afford a hydraulic top link yet so I haven't used the controllers.
 

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OMF. Here is what the doctors have to do to a person who had HYD oil or fuel injected by high pressure into the body. They cut you open and let the petroleum product leach out of the body and then sow you up. If your lucky all is well if not they amputate the limb. If you don't get help in time. You are dead.
So please OMF remove the time bomb and cap ports with HYD plugs until you can afford to properly plumb your system. It might not rupture but do you rilly want to take a chance.
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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is from tractor data dot com:
Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 8.4 gal [31.8 L] (transmission PTO)
8.1 gal [30.7 L] (independent PTO)
Pressure: 2500 psi [172.4 bar]
Pump flow: 5.4 gpm [20.4 lpm]
Steering flow: 4.5 gpm [17.0 lpm]
Steering press.: 800 psi [55.2 bar]

When I go buy fittings, hoses, connectors it should be for 2500 psi or higher is that right?
When I get a top link (hydraulic) what type ram would you recommend?
 

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Hello cody021 and welcome to the forum. I can not help you identify your tractor but you should start your own post. If you know the brand ( ford, Massey Ferguson, John Deere , ect) you can start a post on one of them. If you have no clue on what you have put it under repair and tecnitech discussion with your photos. I'm shut one of the members will be able to help.
Good luck
 

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PJ
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184 Posts
Looks like a Ford 600 series but better pictures would give more information. Look on the left side of the bell housing top and see if there is a serial number there. On top of the flat, as here on my 641. PJ

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PJ
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Looking your pictures a little closer, I would say it's an industrial model with Ford attachments. That being the case and noticing the hydraulic pump is crank driven on the front, there probably isn't a PTO shaft coupling and more than likely no provisions for a 3 point hook up, which would need a rear standard hyd. lift.
 
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