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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a ford 9N/2N with the front mount Distributor. I was lazily Brush Hogging when it lost power and it died. I checked for spark, it had none. I replaced the Coil, Distributor Plate (had bad screw),Capacitor,Points,Rotor Button.
When I tested the top of the coil my light is bright and steady. I have set the points using feeler gauges and Ohm Meter they are opening and closing correctly.When I apply power to the coil and turn it over the Coil post (on the top of the coil) remains constantly lit and bright (not flashing). I have checked the rotor it IS turning.
1) What could be the issue?
2) Is the coil top post (where power is connected via batter) always suppose to remain lit? or flash as the tractor turns over? (I watched a video where theirs was flashing as it rolled over). MINE DOES NOT FLASH REMAIN BRIGHTLY LIT.
3)Items I have not changed was the Cap
4) Items changed
a) Wires
b) Coil
c) Capacitor
d) Points (and set with meter).
e) Rotor Button
5) I set the points and reinstalled on tractor is it possible for those points to get bumped and off set easily? I was careful this is the only thing I cannot see be sure of.
6) How can I test the points while the Distributor is on the tractor? Is there am easy way?
Someone with 9/2N knowledge please help me on this one I have racked by brains and watched videos for a week trying to locate possible source of losing spark.
7) The tractor has been converted to 12 VDC and I tried to use and bypassed the resistor to see if that was a fault in system. Both ways the coil remained brightly lit as tractor turned over.
8) I replaced the 6 Volt coil with a 12 Volt one as well.
 

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Howdy Del, welcome to the tractor forum.

This top coil post is connected to the battery. The voltage may fluctuate slightly, but the light will always remain lit. Electrical current flow is interrupted by the points. If you put your light in series between the coil input terminal and battery, you will get the flashing light you anticipated.

The points are set off the tractor (as you did). I doubt that you bumped them, but check it. Point gap setting is .015".

You replaced the 6V coil with a 12V coil. Some 12V coils are actually 6V coils, usually with an internal resistor. You should not require a resistor in series with the 12V coil, unless printed/stated on the coil. What voltage do you measure at the coil input?? The light has its limitations.

Try "hot wiring" your tractor. Run a jumper wire from battery hot terminal directly to the coil input terminal. This eliminates the keyswitch and wire connections from the battery to the coil.

One other thing.....for me, it's very difficult to see spark. I need a shaded area or darkness to see it.
 

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Caractacus Potts
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Welcome to Tractor Forum, and I believe I might be facing the same issue with a 9n I just bought
 
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Del,

In reading your post again, I think I see your problem. When the tractor was converted from 6V to 12V, a resistor was installed in the coil circuit to limit voltage to the 6V coil. Now, you replaced the 6V coil with a 12V coil, and left the resistor in the circuit. That means you are applying 6V to a 12V coil. No spark from this arrangement.

Eliminate the resistor and see if you have spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it running.A few thing I found out:
1) Oil bath MUST be to full level that allows a better suction within the carb to draw in fuel/air mixture.
2) Careful that your fuel line remains clear of the exhaust Manifold.Make your manifold a heat shield IT HELPS.
3) If you pull your plug for any reason PB Blast the valves worth the time.
4) 2 turns out on fuel cut off any more and you start to get into reserve area and could collect sediment quickly.
5) Idle screw (small one facing outwards) 1 turn out from fully closed, Mixture screw 2 turns out from fully closed (the one most forward on carb).
6)Bad Capacitor when it heats up acts like your starving for fuel.Replace if you have good fuel flow.
7)ALWAYS check the gas cap vent clear.
 

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Whidbey Bruce
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Got it running.A few thing I found out:
1) Oil bath MUST be to full level that allows a better suction within the carb to draw in fuel/air mixture.
2) Careful that your fuel line remains clear of the exhaust Manifold.Make your manifold a heat shield IT HELPS.
3) If you pull your plug for any reason PB Blast the valves worth the time.
4) 2 turns out on fuel cut off any more and you start to get into reserve area and could collect sediment quickly.
5) Idle screw (small one facing outwards) 1 turn out from fully closed, Mixture screw 2 turns out from fully closed (the one most forward on carb).
6)Bad Capacitor when it heats up acts like your starving for fuel.Replace if you have good fuel flow.
7)ALWAYS check the gas cap vent clear.
 

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Caractacus Potts
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Whidbey Bruce.....looks like you had a missfire buddy
 

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Whidbey Bruce
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I have a neighbor who has a front mounted ford distributor and he put in new points and could not make it run. The points were brand new and looked very shiney and bright but could not make a contact through them until I filed them. Check with a meter with the points closed and make sure you see continuity through them. Once the new points were filed started right up.
 
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Caractacus Potts
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good tip
 
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