[CarlB]

The tension that holds my throttle lever in a fixed postion is gone. It rev's up ok, but just springs back to idle when I release the lever. Is there a counter spring to off-set the tension that is missing?

 

[Chris]

Carl, welcome to the forum!!!

The throttle is normally held in place with simple friction traction control from the throttle plate. You should have what a throttle quadrant plate which the ball end of the throttle bar clicks over and holds the position of the throttle. It may be completely worn away and smooth now and perhaps back tension is now pushing the throttle back. There is also a spring at the base of the throttle bar near the carb linkage. Can you take some pics or does it appears that your plate (on dash area) is worn flat?

Andy

 

[Ingersoll444]

I think Andy is on to it. On my N the plate is good, but the little ball on the lever that rides on it is almost warn away. Going to remove it, and build up with weld one of these days.

Also how long have you had the tractor? Has it always done this, or is it something new? Maybe a PO had added a return spring for some reason.

 

[CarlB]

This is a new problem. I've had the tractor about 3 years. I did find the spring at the carb end and that spring appears to pull the throttle back to the idle position. The throttle plate is very worn. I tried to increase the pressure by bending the arm down and the plate up, but that made very little difference. Do you think I can grind some ridges on the plate to increase the friction? Another thing I noticed is that the pull-back tension seems to increase when the engine is running. If the engine is off, I can move the throttle arm into a postion and it seems to stay there. However, when the engine is running, I have to hold it into position with my hand or it will spring back to just above the idle postion.

Carl

 

[psrumors]

CarlB the reason it doesn't "spring back" when the engine is off is the governor is not working the throttle, so there is no tention.

It has been quite a while since I have made this adjustment and then it was only once. So bear with me while I try to explain.

There is an adjustment for down pressure in relations to the throttle shaft. If you look at the base of the throttle shaft, where it meets the throttle rod that goes toward the front of the motor, there are I believe 2 bolts. Loosen them, and while someone puts down pressure on the throttle from above the dash tighten the bolts back.

I do not currently have an N series here to look at and better explain. I hope this works and you can figure it out.

It is not advisable to "tinker" with the springs on the carb, especially with out a manual. I too have had this same problem, it arose after I removed the dash. Let us know if this corrects the issue, you may have to straighten your quadrant back out.

 

[CarlB]

I did locate that adjustment you refered to. There appears to be a bracket with elogated slots that allows you to move the bracket downward to make the adjustment. It's already down as far as it will go. The spring that is directly under that bracket (at the base of the rod) is probally the root cause. It does not seem to have much tension on it at all. It does not seem to be compressed at all. I'll see if there is a replacement part on the Just 8N's web site for that spring.

Carl

 

[Chris]

Tell Don from Just8ns.com that Andy from Tractorforum sent you.
You still need to replace your "throttle quadrant plate" in order to be able to properly select and hold positioning otherwise you will be in the soup again even with a spring/bracket adjustment. Hope this helps and post some pics when/if you can.

Cheers.
Andy

 

[CarlB]

I just ordered all of the parts from Derek Barkley at just 8n's to repair the problem. I ordered the quadrant, the tension spring, and the screws all for about $15. He also explained how to adjust the tension. He also said when I take the control arm off, I will be able to un-crimp the ball and flip it over to eliminate the worn flat spot.

thanks for all of your help. I'll try to take some pics and scan them this weekend. My 8N is in pretty good shape. It runs well, and most of the original paint is in very good shape.

Carl

 

[Chris]

Goodie, Carl! Glad you are getting the help and parts you need!

Here is a pic of mine

<center><img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/8n.jpg></center>

 

[Geno]

Hey Andy, your tractor looks just like mine
What about that bush hog on the back?
A few months ago I bought a Branson 3820 tractor.
the Branson tractor came with the same bush hog.
I think it's the same if yours is a 5ft?
I also got a 6ft finish mower that I got to use today
for the 1st time with my new to me 8N.
My 8N seems to turn the 6ft mower very well.
How's your's do with the bush hog that you have there in the pic?
My Branson also has a sub frame mounted back-hole.
It's not all that fun to remove either, so my plans are to
use the 8N for cutting.
Just wanted to know how much of a strain the BH is for the 8N.
Would you know if I need that clutch thing for the PTO shaft
or does the BH have one built in it?
Again, I do think I have the same one in the pic.
Thanks
Gene

 

[Chris]

A good running 8N will handle a heavy-duty 5' BH all day long with absolutely no problems. You will need to get and install a OVERRUN-CLUTCH proper-sized for your PTO shaft. Don't use a cheap metal adapter or sleeve, get the proper sized ORC for your PTO shaft and use it! Howse makes GREAT equipment and ALL of my implements are Howse brand and I have had ZERO problems with any of them to date! GREAT STUFF!

I hope this helps, Geno! Please let me know and have some fun!
Andy