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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day and thanks for accepting me. I have purchased a 7610 for some very easy going yard work and a small amount of bush hogging, maybe an hour or 2 a month.

She seems to run ok, lots of little things require some attention like electrics and the loader is quite slow to respond to the levers being used but otherwise she seems to be a good little purchase.

1st I would like to establish pump pressure and flow are within spec or close enough to it. Would anyone know the procedure to do so?
 

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Pressure is easy to measure, you can do that at a rear remote with a good gauge.
Flow is a bit harder you could use a basic flow meter but you actually need to measure flow at pressure,
there is a device called a flow-rater which can be plugged into a remote or a line to measure the flow while maintaining pressure on the system.
Most dealers will have one.
 

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It might help to know what hydraulic options your tractor is equipped with, since there were more than one. Some have two pumps, some only one. The remote valve options available could have utilized either one or both pumps. The speed of loader operation would be noticeably affected by which options you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the welcome and replies. I will try to answer the questions.

From what I can tell it has both a pump below and slightly to the rear of the acceletor foot dedal on the right handside as well as a steering pump up on the left hand side of the engine.

It has the aux valve aswell. There are 3 banks of spools on the rear and a loader as you can see.

 

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I don't think I've ever seen a hydraulic configuration quite like what you have there. I can't tell how the loader valve is supplied from the photos. It looks like it has one line connected to a fitting on the right front corner of the lift housing? Is that pressure or return? Where is the other line? You have "deluxe" load sensing remote valves, but I can't see the front pump or the line from it leading to the combining valve. The steering pump doesn't count. That's a separate system in all cases. If you're operating on only the internal pump as it appears you are, then the loader will not be very fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok that's very helpful.

The tractor is on a small plot of land we have in the mountains (google drakensberg mountains) and I am currently in the city (Durban) so to speak at home.

We are back on the "farm" in 10 days and plan to wash the tractor and will take better photographs along with a video or two to help diagnose whilst I am there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I hope this gives a clearer picture of the loader plumbing. I am happy to take instruction if you think its incorrect or could be done better as I am not happy with the hydraulic performance.

I have cleaned the screen, changed the filter, topped up the hydraulic fluid to the correct level and on initial start up the loader lifted and tilted perfectly but on driving 1min I have no controls now.

I would like to keep one set of rear spool valves otherwise i don't or won't use the other so happy to disconnect or remove them if I can then plumb in to get better hydraulic flow.

Again the writing on the pictures is only what I suspect




EDIT: On emptying the bucket of oil drained from the filter chance and screen clean I have found a perfectly intact O-ring which I suspect is the cause of my problem and no hydraulics for the loader. I have undone each hose at the loader controls and have zero flow yet I still have rear hydraulics when the aux service controls valve know is pushed in but when out nothing and I suspect that is the cause of my problem
 

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I doubt that O ring is your problem. I can't be certain, but I suspect your tractor has load monitor and the line you think may be loader pressure is connected to one of the the two ports involved with that feature. There will be no flow or pressure there unless the three point is used. That system is difficult enough to explain without adding a loader valve into the equation.

Does your tractor have a front pump like this?

If so, line #1 is missing. The fitting it connects to has a cap on it in your photos. I see a hose along the transmission in the photo as well. Where does that hose come from and where does it go?

My suggestion at this point (what I would do if I were faced with it) is eliminate the current loader valve supply and return lines and plug the ports they now are connected to. Get the front pump plumbing back to "factory". Then get two hoses made to supply the loader valve from one of the remote valves. This is commonly done on those tractors. It will give you a responsive loader and one free remote to use for other purposes.

That may be more than you care to tackle, I don't know. You may need to enlist the aid of someone familiar with the tractor, or at least tractor hydraulics in general.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thank you. I am happy to tackle the task but don't think..am almost certaini dont have an engine mounted hydralic pump but only the one down the side of the transmission behind the foot brake under the tread plate.

We are 12h apart in time so I will take a video tomorrow and upload it giving you a walk around and tracing all the hydraulic lines to give clarity.

If this is the hose you referring to is the silver one heading to the rear it goes to the 3 point link power assist ram.

As I understand it and as it has seemed yo work so far...aux hydralic control knob pushed in the 3 point link power assist ram works. Knob out the loader works.
 

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I do see a few of those auxiliary service valves around, in fact I saw one today on a 6610, but as usual, it doesn't get used. It might make sense in some applications, but personally, I stay away from them. If the tractor has only the internal pump I recommend installing a power beyond type plate under the combining valve. That makes the auxiliary supply live and the three point works without changing anything back an forth.

Your tractor has the "deluxe" remote valve package with sensing line installed, and the fitting with the cap is consistent with the dual pump arrangement. I can't help wondering if all that is in place why would there not be a front pump? Maybe it was so equipped and at some point that was removed for some reason??

At any rate, some more complete photos of just what's there and what isn't would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I hope this helps


I managed to get the loader to work doing the following.

Lower the rear arms, pull the aux hydraulic valve out and then raise the rear arm lever and hey presto the loader operates.
 

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Well if that's how it works, and you're okay with it like that, then great. If not, there are some options.

You do only have the internal unit, someone apparently has removed the engine mounted one. The cover plate over the place where it originally was mounted is visible in your video, and isn't a factory cover. I doubt it would be cost effective to try and replace all that's missing.

To begin with, I would wonder how effective is the pump? Your three point seems a bit sluggish, but the engine RPM weren't all that high in the video. Will it lift a reasonable load? How about the loader? Does it seem to lift as fast with a load as it does empty?

A sub plate on the lift housing would provide live oil flow to the loader valve, and allow you to use either the loader or the lift with messing with the black knob. In order for that to work properly you need to examine the loader valve and determine if it's power beyond capable (first) and is the proper sleeve available? To do that you need to remove the return line and all the fittings from the valve and examine the bore in the casting. The right style valve will have a vacant cavity, maybe 1/2" to 5/8" or so deep, and directly in line with the threaded port will be a machined bore somewhat smaller than the port size, about 3/8"or 1/2" deep. Without that (and the sleeve) the sub plate will not work.

You could power the loader valve with one of the remotes, and leave the existing return line where it is. Kind of clunky having to step on it all day long. They could have done that better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you your comments are very helpful. I am back in the city now but on return will comment on loader speed and 3 point ability to lift a load.

I did a small amount of bush hogging over the weekend and the 3 point had no problem lifting the bush hog off the ground. It does however do so in a slightly jurky motion and over time drops down so suspect I need to replace a few seals in the top plate?


In the video you seem me point to the draft control lever which has been tack welded in its current position as the little metal tab that locates it and holds it in place must have broken off. How important might this be if I don't plan on using the tractor for anything more than loading and mowing ?
 

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Thank you your comments are very helpful. I am back in the city now but on return will comment on loader speed and 3 point ability to lift a load.

I did a small amount of bush hogging over the weekend and the 3 point had no problem lifting the bush hog off the ground. It does however do so in a slightly jurky motion and over time drops down so suspect I need to replace a few seals in the top plate?


In the video you seem me point to the draft control lever which has been tack welded in its current position as the little metal tab that locates it and holds it in place must have broken off. How important might this be if I don't plan on using the tractor for anything more than loading and mowing ?
The condition of the pump, the oil, and the filter could each have a bearing on the operation of the system. I would start with the filter if you haven't already done so. I'm not a fan of suggesting that someone should throw away fifteen or twenty gallons of serviceable fluid as is commonly done on these sites. I have heard of very few internal problems with engines, transmissions, or hydraulics that were solved with an oil change.

As for the lift dropping, is that while operating or after the tractor is shut off with the lift up? If it's the latter then it's a judgement call. The severity makes the case. If it starts to drop and raise, drop and raise while operating, then you should address it.

The draft control is a feature mainly intended for operating ground tilling implements. It isn't necessary for it to be operational for most three point use. If things work with it as it is, then great. Sometimes it can be helpful to reposition the draft control lever for position control operation, sometimes not. Not all systems are alike in that regard. I just finished a lift system issue on a Massey 35 yesterday where I had questions about the draft control linkage and its affect on operation. While I had it apart I removed some of the parts and eliminated draft entirely from the picture. The lift now works strictly with position control and handles the bush hog just fine.

Just an aside. If you shut it off with the lift up, whether loaded or not, you add this into the mix. The lift settles over time. The control is still in the raise position, When you come back and attempt to start it, you're not only cranking the engine, you're turning the pump which is now trying to raise the arms back to the level where it was last. That has its effects on battery, starter, and cranking speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good info on the loader being raise when switched off. I typically do drop it on switching off the engine along with the 3 point link.

The filter and screen have been changed/cleaned and the oil although not golden in colour is still not bad at all.

The draft lever does not bother me as I don't plan on tilling or ploughing so happy to leave it as is.

I will update on the dropping arms, funny enough the loafer does stay in its same position if left up and the engine is turned off.
 
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