[Kristian Andersen]

Hi!
My Ford 550 backhoe loader have started to make a bang/loud knock every time it cranks one turn. It sounds like a much louder compression like, or, as said, a bang or a loud knock.
It gets louder when you gas up and the RPM's rises and the knock rises as the rpm's goes up. It starts 10-15 seconds after you turn the engine on, and after 2-3 minutes a whining sounds starts to appear, and then I shut it of.

After this issue started, I disassembled the cylinderhead and renovated the valves ect. so they are running smooth.

Any suggestions on what to do?
I have read something about it could be something with the rod bearings?
Google calls it for some engine knocking, but the videos I have seen of that issue is like a ticking sound and not like a much louder engine compression.

 

[sixbales]

Hi Kristian, welcome aboard the tractor forum.

Did you pull the cylinder head?? There may be something loose in one cylinder and the piston is hitting it??

 

[Kristian Andersen]

Yes, the cylinder head was of, and the head gasket have been replaced. The cylinders was all clean and everything has been cleaned before assembling it again. So no, there are nothing ratterling in the cylinder. The noice isn’t a rattling but in the start it’s a clicking sound, then becomes a knocking sound and then a constant sound. The oil levels are all good.

 

[Ultradog]

Did the noise start before or after you pulled the head?

 

[Kristian Andersen]

before

 

[Ultradog]

Not sure why you would pull the head. Not much up there to make noise.

 

[sixbales]

You might try a cheap stethoscope to listen/locate where the noise is coming from.

Did you ever run the engine low on oil, or work on a steep incline where the engine maybe wasn't getting oil for an extended period?

I had a loud knock once from broken tooth/teeth on timing gears.

A lifter not getting oil can make a loud clicking noise.

 

[Kristian Andersen]

To pull the head was just to make the valves to seal properly. The engine have never run out of oil, but I’m thinking it might be a piston rod bearing which have gone. To change one of them, you can drop the sump, but isn’t it a part of the “frame” which carries the weight of the whole tractor?

 

[sixbales]

Kristian, you need a shop/repair manual before you go forward with this project. I pulled the oil pan on my Ford 3600 tractor about 30 years ago, and do not remember any problems (but I used my manual). One thing I do remember, is that I had to support the weight under the transmission, loosen the bolts and slide the front axle forward to access the front pan bolts. But your tractor is different and will require additional steps. See the following quotes from a man named 'Walter' on the yt forum:
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Quote:
Re: ford 550 oil pan in reply to bobby cornett, 08-11-2004 12:55:23
Hi Bobby, No you do not have to separate, but you will have to loosen off the front axle to enable you to slide the axle forward so that you can remove the front pan bolts, also there is a timing cover plate on the housing that you will have to remove so that you can drop the pan. Do you have the service manual. If not let me know if there is anything else you would like to know. The front axle is attached to the frame front section side rails, there is four bolts that have a square insert that allows you to loosen and move the axle forward without taking the bolts right out. The pump is on a splined shaft so the axle will move forward enough without taking it right off. A word of caution , there could be some shimm material in between the pan and the front frame section, make sure you take note as to where they came from and replace in the same order. Hope this helps, Walter

Just remembered something else you should be aware of, when you go to start removing the pan you should first block up the transmission bell housing so as to remove the stress from the motor block and transmission connections that remain as you will need to remove the 7/8" bolts from the pan to bell housing. These bolts are the main load bearing between the tran housing and the motor, you will have to lift and block the loader as well so that you can access the front frame bolts, if you have the front weights they will have to come off as well, be careful as they are very heavy, the hoses for the power steering can stay attached but do not over stretch these. Good Luck. Walter
Unquote
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This is why you need a manual. If you find rod bearing damage, you will likely have crankshaft damage, which means you will have to pull the engine.

 

[Kristian Andersen]

Okay, I will keep that in mind, and figure out a way to proceed forward. Thanks for the answers!

 

[XLENDI]

just a quick check to see if your brgs are ok.
Take out a small amount of sump oil.
Put in the palm of your hand and take out to the sunlight.
If you have a brg problem you will see a metallic look in your oil. Cheers.