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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening. I have a small leak and tried everything I can think of to raise the pipe to replace the o-ring. I cleaned the pipe, I was trying to use pliers, and basically everything I can think of without destroying the tube. Has anyone replaced the o-ring in the tube and if so how did you get this tube to move up to do so?
 

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I've had those apart several times and never had too much trouble getting it to move.
I would try a vice grips - the curved jaw type which will bite better, not the straight jaw ones.
Clamp it on tight then tap it upwards with a hammer.
Turn it side to side as you tap it.
It will go.
Afterwards take a file and clean the teeth marks up.
If you ruin it it's not the end of the world.
They are still available for about $34 from Messicks.com
Part #
81813667
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had those apart several times and never had too much trouble getting it to move.
I would try a vice grips - the curved jaw type which will bite better, not the straight jaw ones.
Clamp it on tight then tap it upwards with a hammer.
Turn it side to side as you tap it.
It will go.
Afterwards take a file and clean the teeth marks up.
If you ruin it it's not the end of the world.
They are still available for about $34 from Messicks.com
Part #
81813667
Honestly I never even knew they made round vice grips. I will try it. I just had to pour a gallon more hydraulic fluid so I am loosing quite a bit

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good morning. I am so excited I made some progress and thank you for your tips. I moved it up to the first o-ring. I tried to move it up further thinking I can replace the o-rings without taking anything apart. Do I have to remove the pump to get to the other o-ring or to get the pipe all the way up to get the old o-rings off and the new ones on? Again, thank you for all your help on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Success.. I got the pipe all the way up and replaced the one o-ring. I didn't see two based on the manual. After pushing the pipe back down and putting the clip on it, I ran the tractor with no leaks. Only issue now is my 3 point hitch isn't lifting like it lost prime or something. On some tractors I was reading that there is a hydraulic bleeder valve somewhere. I can't find anything in the manual, will you please be so kind and tell me where is the bleeder valve if it has one?

Thank you in advance
Michael
Ford 4000 Industrial
 

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Success.. I got the pipe all the way up and replaced the one o-ring. I didn't see two based on the manual. After pushing the pipe back down and putting the clip on it, I ran the tractor with no leaks. Only issue now is my 3 point hitch isn't lifting like it lost prime or something. On some tractors I was reading that there is a hydraulic bleeder valve somewhere. I can't find anything in the manual, will you please be so kind and tell me where is the bleeder valve if it has one?

Thank you in advance
Michael
Ford 4000 Industrial
No bleeding required on those.
The pump sits down in the bottom of the oil so it is self priming.
Run the tractor for a bit.
Take it out for a spin for a while.
Then try the 3 point again.
It should self prime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No bleeding required on those.
The pump sits down in the bottom of the oil so it is self priming.
Run the tractor for a bit.
Take it out for a spin for a while.
Then try the 3 point again.
It should self prime.
Awesome and thank you. It's amazing how little information about this paticular tractor on the net. However this forum is awesome. Do you know anything about the double spool hydraulic remote?
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