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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the clutch on my 73 4000 3 cyl diesel and now it won't disengage. I used a kit so the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, pressure plate and disk were replaced. I compared old to new and it looks identical. The old clutch was working fine, I replaced the clutch as part of an engine requild. The shipping spacers were removed from the clutch arms. The disc was installed correctly, flange towards the flywheel. No amount of clutch pedal adjustment works. I did not replace or surface the flywheel, it was fine as is. I split the case again and can't find anything wrong. I did not take the tractor out in the field to try and break it loose, maybe it just needs some heavy torque to break the disk free? Anyone else have this problem or have an idea what the problem might be?
 

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Howdy Pitrede, welcome aboard the tractor forum.

On my old Ford 3600, when I finished changing the clutch I noticed that my linkage adjustment was nearly out of room for the rod within the clevis. I am wondering if this is your problem as well??

My clutch has been operational for nearly 15 years now, but if this ever becomes a problem for my clutch adjustment, I plan to chase out the threads on the linkage rod and cut off about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of rod. This will give me more room for adjustment.
 

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No, heavy torque is not the answer. Revisit your adjustment first. You need to determine what's different now that this clutch is installed. When you put it together the first time, once the two halves were bolted together and you checked clutch pedal operation and free play, what did you find? How does the pedal travel and "feel" differ from what uit was before you took it apart?

Next, you say the two clutches look identical. Where did the new clutch come from?

Also, you've looked at the pedal itself, the bushings it pivots on are reasonably serviceable, and the return spring is intact and functioning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The pedal and all the bushings look good. I believe now I need to trim some off the clutch linkage rod, I've adjusted it as far as it will go until the rod interferes with the arm. That's something I couldn't bring myself to consider since it's bone stock, the original worked just fine the way it is. I have to remind myself sometimes it's a 50 year old tractor. Thanks for the advice, I'll post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Trimming the threaded end of the link rod fixed the problem, seems odd you would have to do that on a stock clutch replacement. Oh well, lesson learned. Thanks for the replies.
 
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