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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an older gas ford 3000 tractor. It was moved out to a field about 2 months ago and parked. You can turn the key on it and the dash lights up and then when you turn to start it, it just quickly buzzes/clicks and then stops. Then the dashboard lights go off and it won’t click again if you turn it again. You have to disconnect and reconnect the battery terminals and then it will light up and click, but it never turns over or sounds like it’s trying hard to start. It does have a new battery, and when it’s not being used we remove the connections to the battery so it doesn’t drain. What could this be?
 

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Hello noacluck, welcome to the tractor forum.

That sounds like a dead battery or a bad battery connection, especially a bad ground connection. Clean your battery cable connections (both ends) and try charging the battery and see if it helps. It could also be a bad battery cable with internal corrosion.
 

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Sounds like the dreaded buildup between the inside of the battery connector and the battery post, a reaction takes place between the post and connector that effectively becomes an insulator and so no current can flow,use a battery post cleaner brush that will polish both post and connector, not that expensive from an Auto supplier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The battery I put in was brand new, no corrosion on the post or connectors. The cables are old so maybe there’s a missing connection there or something...but it’s just weird that it clicks the first try every time and then completely dies.
 

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Check the battery voltage, before a starting attempt and when the dash lights have gone out, without removing the connections. Then again, with the connections removed.
 

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Ok my theory was wrong, with what you have written about loosing battery power guided me to that response, here is another, if you have a jumper set, hook the positive one to the battery positive post and the other end to the battery cable solenoid connection and see if the tractor will turn over, if it does, then you probably have the copper core in the main battery cable corroding away, try this first and if you get no response then hook up the negative jumper as well, and if this works, then the negative cable is sus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I used a multimeter to verify that power was getting from the battery to the solenoid. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid and the starter.

Now if you turn the key it doesn’t buzz or click but the dash does stay on. Is there some kind of safety or kill switch I need to turn off?? The tractor is in neutral. I even tried wiring the battery directly to the starter and it didn’t turn over. I’m including pictures to help get some specific direction...last picture is the back of the solenoid with connections





 

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I used a multimeter to verify that power was getting from the battery to the solenoid. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid and the starter.

Now if you turn the key it doesn’t buzz or click but the dash does stay on. Is there some kind of safety or kill switch I need to turn off?? The tractor is in neutral. I even tried wiring the battery directly to the starter and it didn’t turn over. I’m including pictures to help get some specific direction...last picture is the back of the solenoid with connections





There is a neutral safety switch in the trans. The wires are just in front of the gear shift . The switch is activated by the High /Low shifter. They are notorious for going bad. You can jumper the switch out.
 

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Having 12V, at rest, at the solenoid means nothing, the important thing here is current. If a wire or connection is bad, current will not go through in a proper way. Connectivity and voltage may look fine at rest, connecting a starter and expecting current to an amount of hundreds of Ampére to run along the lines, that is another cup of tea.

At least, the ground lug/wire connection is in a poor condition. Get new battery cables 70 mm² (~2/0 AWG) . That may sound a bit too large to a lot of people. It is common to use 35 mm² (~2 AWG). You will feel the heat on those when you need to crank for a longer time. Heat means larger resistance, the starter will slow down earlier than necessary.

*** Edit
Sorry, I see now that it is a gasoline engine. You will probably do fine with 35 mm² (~2 AWG) cables.
***


ground.jpg
 
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