[Pat_Cork]

Hi all
Greetings from Ireland, We have a Ford 3000 that was left out for 3 years, I only managed to get her in this week. Thankfully I didn't try to start her.
First job was to check the oil dip. showed milky oil - hence suspected water in the oil.
Checked the Radiator, and no water in the rad.
Drained the oil off, and we have LOTTS of water in the sump, see photos below.

My Dad is saying that it could have all come form rain water! (I'm doubtful)

I suspect that we have a
1. Head gasket
2. Leaking liner
3. Pin hole in the head
4. Pin hole in the block

But the tractor has been sitting for years. So the positive side of me is saying that it's just been sitting for so long (back to water coming in through the exhaust)

I'm wondering what could I do before I start ripping. i.e.
1. Put water in to the rad and see does it hold?
2. Drop the sump to trace where the water was coming from?
3. I have an inspection camera, is there any handy place I could insert it to see where the problem is coming from?
4. Give up and just start ripping!

Any ideas on how to start greatly appreciated?

 

[BigT]

Howdy Pat, welcome to the tractor forum.

If the vertical exhaust was not covered, the water in the crankcase most likely came from rain water. Condensation can also play a role.

The transmission and rear differential are separate reservoirs that probably have water in them as well.

 

[Fedup]

While there are multiple possibilities for water intrusion, I would start with draining the oil(which you have done). Once it stops dripping fill the radiator with plain water with the drain plug out. An internal cooling system leak should show up pretty quickly. If it passes that test, then remove the injectors and try to turn the engine. If the water came in through the exhaust, the cylinders will be rusted and it probably won't turn. That should give you a starting point.

 

[the key of knowledge]

SUGGESTION...fill the radiator with water, next pressure test the radiator and see if it holds. If yes water in oil is likely not from radiator (always possible water enters oil only when engine is hot and things expand). Next drain engine oil and refill with fresh oil. Get engine started and check for water in oil after engine has run for a while. If no water in oil you may be reasonably certain the water came in via the exhaust. Install a flapper valve on top of the exhaust stack to assure no water in future.
IF water returns to oil then pressure test each cylinder. If head gasket is leaking the pressure test should cause air bubbles in the radiator (not 100% reliable). Pressure testing the cylinders will also find pinholes in head and pistons. When pressure testing listen at the exhaust and the intake for escaping air. Rotate the engine by hand using the fan belt to close both valves in the cylinder being tested. You can also sniff test the radiator for hydrocarbons. This will help diagnose the head gasket.
The easiest way to do all of this is to change the engine oil, put water in the radiator, start the engine and let it run. if bubbles appear in the radiator or water shows up in the oil then there is a problem. If not then the water likely came in from rain water. Install a flapper valve on the exhaust pipe.
If you enjoy engines this type of problem gives the opportunity to learn a lot about engines. (-:

 

[Pat_Cork]

Thanks all for the replies, ye're a godsend. It's great to have somewhere to bounce ideas off. I'll update ye in a few days.

 

[Pat_Cork]

Hi all.. we filled up the rad and the water stayed in the engine so we think that it was rain water .
I'm thinking about hand cranking the engine but I'm wondering about what way we rotate the engine is the clockwise or anticlockwise from the front fan belt pulley?
If I get a lot of resistance and I'm unable to crank it then I think removing injectors and having a look with an inspection camera may be the way to go.

Thinking aloud, I may have to remove the injectors anywhere to hang trying to the engine to get over compression in the engine.
Thanks again for all your replies. You have been of enormous help to us.

 

[HarveyW]

Standing in front of the engine, hand crank clockwise.

 

[MRain]

I am new to the forum. I had the same problem with ford 3000 sitting for 15 years. removed sparkplugs and water came rushing into cylinder, and out thru plug hole. I decided to break it down, have head/valve job, and inspect the cylinder walls before trying to turn it over. After one week of waiting on head, rebuilt carburator, total tune up, and flushed engine with diesel fuel, I put it back together. 12 hours after getting the head back home, it started right up and PLAY PLAY PLAY . . . is what is sounded like to me.

 

[Pat_Cork]

Hi all.... Finally got back to my machine.... New oils and water gone into her. New battery..... Starter reconditioned. Last night we got her turning over with fuel shut off..... She's turning over... But I need to charge up the battery so I can try her on fuel. Next I should have a update... But at least I got her spinning around.

 

[Pat_Cork]

Hi all
I started a new tread... I think the fuel pump is gone, see below

Ford 3000 is the fuel pump gone?

Hi all I can't get the 3000 to start. I'm just about to take off my fuel pump I think it needs to be reconditioned, but before I do, I just said I'd run it past some people on here. The Background to this is the tractor has been standing outside for a year or two... more details here (Ford 3000...

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