ford 3000, power steering problem

Discussion in 'Ford / New Holland' started by dave1shere, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. dave1shere

    dave1shere New Member

    2
    Mar 19, 2010
    I am having a problem getting my power steering to work. Disassembled it to change out the oil seals top and bottom because of the leaking seal on the top. I found that my steering shaft was worn out at the top at the seal area, so I bought a new steering shaft, because of this I had to disassemble the entire steering. I have everything put back together, but I cannot get the power steering to work. I have a shop manual, and I reassembled everything according to the manual. My only question is the steering hydraulic spool has several plungers and check valves. I have tried every configuration I could, I first put it back the way the book shows. Still no power steering so I tried swapping the check valves with the plungers. Still no power steering. I have plenty of pressure from the power steering Pump, so I'm not worried about the filter being clogged or anything like that. Does anyone know if the check valves in the spool have little ball bearings in them. Well that's it for now, any help would be appreciated. I am at my wits end and Haven't been able to resolve this problem.
     
  2. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011

  3. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Compliments of ultradogMN

    Have a look at the photo.
    Set your block so the fitting is on your right side. That's the starboard side for you land lubbers. See the yellow pencil.
    There are two types of plungers in the block.
    I call them the special plungers and the plain plungers.
    Notice the green pencil. That is the hole where the two special plungers and two balls go.
    All the rest of the holes get two plain plungers with a spring in the middle.

    Additional clarification from ultradogMN:

    If you set the block onto the steering column just like it sits in the picture you could load it from the top.
    On the 3 holes with the plain plungers you would load the bottom plunger, then a spring, then the second plunger.
    The special plungers have 'horns' on one end.
    So you would load that hole with the first plunger horns up, then the two balls, then the second plunger horns down. There is no spring in that hole.
    One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes up.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 15, 2011
  4. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Regarding plumbing of your power steering system:

    Your power steering valve has two connection ports for the PS cylinders on each side. An UPPER and a LOWER connection.

    Your cylinders should have two connections facing up. An INSIDE and an OUTSIDE connection.

    The UPPER conn on the PS valve connects to the INSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

    The LOWER conn on the PS valve connects to the OUTSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

    Use a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench on these connectors (to avoid rounding off the nuts).

    The tubes have DOUBLE FLARE Connections. Sometimes they develop cracks/leaks, and have to be re-done. Buy a kit and do these yourself, as a shop charges too much. Kits are about $40

    Hope this all makes sense to you. Let me know if you have problems.
     
  5. cyclone30

    cyclone30 New Member

    7
    Dec 10, 2013
    mr sixbales...any idea- after doing all of this, what could cause power steering fluid to pour out of the Gear Adapter housing Vent? I am positive everything is put back together as you directed. I cant for the life of me figure out why all of this fluid is going in there?
     
  6. cyclone30

    cyclone30 New Member

    7
    Dec 10, 2013
    I am working on a '77 ford 3600 power steering unit. I replaced a broken Gear Adapter Assembly, and of course when taking apart the valve assembly I wasn't prepared for the valves, balls and springs to fall out.. that's how I came across this thread.. after putting everything back together I now have fluid coming out of the vent,, what could cause this to happen? the only thing that I am not sure of or if it could be the culprit, is how to correctly tighten the control valve pre-load? any ideas?? the new Gear Adapter Assembly came with a new seal already installed.
     
  7. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Is the fluid coming out of the steering column? Give us a clue where fluid is coming from.
    Use attached diagram to describe where the fluid is venting.

    My manual says to use a new locknut, and to tighten locknut so all end play is removed, then loosen 1/6 turn and stake nut to locating slot in steering shaft (using a hammer and punch). My manual has a photo illustrating this procedure.

    Seal #28 in the bottom of the steering column is to be installed "lips down" towards the control valve.

    Seal #7 in the top of the adapter assembly is supposed to be installed "lips up" (towards the control valve).

    I suspect that you have a seal backwards.

    Or maybe incorrect seal. Seal #28 P/N E1NN3N632AA. Seal #7 P/N 86531349.

    Or maybe a damaged seal.

    Hope this all makes sense to you. Look at the bright side - You will be an expert on this subject when you get it all done.

    To be honest, the control valve can drive guys crazy, without Ultradog's writeup. He is an EXPERT in many areas, but he is the ACE when it comes to power steering control valves.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2013
  8. cyclone30

    cyclone30 New Member

    7
    Dec 10, 2013
    fluid is coming out of housing vent valve assy #11
     
  9. cyclone30

    cyclone30 New Member

    7
    Dec 10, 2013
    seal #7 was already installed in part #5 when I purchased it . I will double check to make sure lip on seal is up.... without a doubt fluid is getting past this seal, it appears to be forced out by the heavy constant flow out of the vent... to answer previous question, NO fluid leaks out of the steering column, ONLY getting past seal #7... I bought #5 directly from Ford.
     
  10. cyclone30

    cyclone30 New Member

    7
    Dec 10, 2013
    sorry about this,, Ford gave me a parts diagram and parts list,, the diagram looks to be the same as the one you provided but the #s are different. omit my previous numbers.. i will start over using your part numbers. again sorry I didn't catch this sooner.

    Fluid is coming out of housing adapter vent #18.

    the seal #14 was already installed in part #12 when I purchased it. I will double check to make sure lip is facing up... without a doubt fluid is getting past this seal, it appears to be forced out by the heavy constant flow coming out of the vent... to answer previous question, NO fluid leaks out of the steering column, ONLY getting past the lower seal #14... I bought #12 directly from Ford..
     
  11. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Your Ford dealer gave you a parts diagram for a Ford 3000. The diagram I gave you above was for a 3600. See attached diagram for a 3000, to get everyone on the same page, regarding changes. The part numbers we are talking about are the same.

    Let us know how you make out.

    One tip for the future. DO NOT use the steering wheel to pull yourself up onto the tractor. The steering column is not designed for lateral loading imposed when guys pull themselves up onto the tractor. You can damage seal #28 in the bottom of the steering column, or possibly break adapter assembly #5??

    I have trained myself to avoid using the steering wheel to pull myself up onto the tractor. The last time I was into this steering assembly was 20+ years ago. I guarantee this practice works.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2013
  12. cyclone30

    cyclone30 New Member

    7
    Dec 10, 2013
    Here is what happened, the said 3600 was being loaded onto a trailer, everything was working just as it should until the guy driving the tractor got the right side front tire against the side of the trailer and tried steering away from the side of the trailer. that is how the part #12 got broke. the wheel against the trailer couldn't turn thus all the hydraulic pressure snapped all three of the mounting "ears" right off of part#12... this is how I came into the picture,, I was told to fix it. so I went to Ford, ordered what parts I thought it needed,,then I went thru the details above,,, all in all with your help in looking for the non-obvious- the new part#12 came with needle bearing and seal already in place from the factory... Guess what?? they put the seal #14 in upside down allowing fluid to go right past it.. this job was just completed about an hour ago, works perfect.. you were a great help in figuring this out.. I cant thank you enough for getting me on line,, I never would have second guessed the factory on this one.. thanks again-- very well explained,, hats off!!!
     
  13. columbogid

    columbogid New Member

    2
    Jul 15, 2014
    Ford 3000 control valve

    I purchased Ford 3000 1966 model at auction. The power steering did not work. I purchased new pump and was not problem. I seen post on control valve and took apart and cleaned and polished all parts. I assembled back according to picture posted, which was a great help. When I started the power steering went all the way to one side and locked and is not bypassing any oil. The unit seems to be building pressure and pulling down engine at idle. Do you think the check valves are sticking in control valve yet. Let me know what you think. Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
  14. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Howdy columbogid,

    Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

    First thing you need to do is check your plumbing. Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely.

    Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
  15. jethrox

    jethrox New Member

    1
    Jul 14, 2014
    i realized this is an OLD thread, but i'm working on my steering control valve now and was looking at the comments here about assemlby. sixbales said "One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes up." are you positive about that? the manual says the groove goes down. mine isn't working right so i'm thinking about trying your way to see if it's better?
     
  16. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Hello Jethrox,

    Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

    The grooved end of the center sleeve goes DOWN. My manual indicates the same thing.

    Apparently this is not a fatal flaw in the procedure, as many guys have used this old procedure with success.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014
  17. columbogid

    columbogid New Member

    2
    Jul 15, 2014

    We did have the lines crossed at the control valve. We reversed and the power steering is working great. Thanks for the help.
     
  18. rdukes725

    rdukes725 New Member

    1
    Jul 25, 2014
    My recently purchased Ford 3000 has a steering problem that has cut my butt. It will turn sharp right when you crank it and the steering locks up. Reversed the lines to the steering cylinders and it turned sharply to the left and locked up. When the engine is not running, you can turn wheels.
    Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated
     
  19. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely.

    Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.
     
  20. Wuneyedjack

    Wuneyedjack New Member

    2
    Oct 22, 2014
    Ford 3600 steering seal replacement

    Hello, I'm new to this forum, understand this is a 3 year old thread but exactly what I'm looking for so hopefully somebody's still here. I have a 1976 Ford 3600 that leaks from the PS valve body. A year ago, when we bought it, it leaked out the top of the steering column, and we had a dealer repair. Now it leasks out the base of the column, and having learned here that there are seals top and bottom, I think the bottom one is now the culprit. My two questions are: What is the best way, and steps, to access this assembly. My extracted Ford manual says remove the fuel tank and then remove the entire steering gear assembly from the trans housing, andd take it apart from the bottom up. Hoping that if only to replace seal 7 in the diagram, less disassembly may be needed. Besides the seals (7, 28) and associated O rings (26) what should be replaced at the same time? Machine was working fine before the leak.

    Thanks..great forum