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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Ford 3000 diesel always and easily starts. But no matter what, I always have to start it with the excess fuel button pushed in even if it is hot outside and the engine is at normal operating temperature. I don’t like starting it with the excess fuel button because I am concerned about wet stacking if I keep doing that. So after it starts and I run it and I get off to do something off the tractor such as move something of my way, I will just let it idle.
Which is worse, starting each time with the excess fuel button pushed or letting it idle for a prolonged time?


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Can't really say, but it isn't good to let a tractor sit and idle ( low idle ) It's best to keep the rpm's up enough to keep the tractor at a decent operating temperature. From what I hear, long idle periods with the engine running cold, polishes the cylinder walls leading to oil consumption.

That being said, I leave mine run, probably at 1200 to 1500 rpm, give or take, while I hop off and do the manual part of the chores that I am working on. Otherwise I shut it down. How long are you talking about?

Where I live, trucks often let their rigs run all night, in the winter, while parked in the sub zero temperatures to stay warm in the sleeper, and not worry about cold start failures in the morning.
 

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Letting it idle will cause “wet stacking”..
The button is there for a reason,, use it.
Are u trying to start/restart it w the throttle in LOW IDLE.??
Move the throttle to HI IDLE and see if it starts easier..
But ur right, after the engine has been started and up to temp., u “shouldn’t” need the excess fuel button..
That might be something as simple as a timing issue.. or injectors in need of servicing..
Or something as major as a compression check or new plunger and barrels in the pump.??
How about the supply pump bolted to the side of the inj. pump.. r u sure it’s working properly.?? Those r a real weak spot in that system..
Some have a bolt that holds the top on the supply pump.. u could remove the bolt and the top to get an idea of what’s going on..
Good luck.
 

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BTW.. When was the last time u checked and changed the OIL IN THE PUMP.??
 

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Where I live, trucks often let their rigs run all night, in the winter, while parked in the sub zero temperatures to stay warm in the sleeper, and not worry about cold start failures in the morning.
Some do, most don't (not even here in the winter when it's really cold. The new FMCSA regs prohibit extended idle so most heavy truck operators have APU's plumbed into the electrical and heat / cool systems that keep everything toasty or cool and the starting batteries charged without idling the main engine. In fact, most newer trucks today have automatic shutdown after about 15 minutes. Cold weather idling especially is very hard on a bigger diesel. They cool off and start producing carbon in the combustion chambers and intake runners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The pumpsguy always asks about oil change of the fuel injector. I change the oil and clean the filter twice a year.
I have replaced the injectors. I have replaced the low pressure fuel pump three times. I have not checked the timimg on it. I have to start in high idle because if I dont, the excess fuel button wont stay pushed in. After it us warmed up, I use the excess fuel button at high idle and immediately idle down once it starts. Idling down turns off the excess fuel button. I try to avoid idling for more than 10 minutes, but you guys all know all about tasks off the tractor taking longer than expected. I will try idling at higher rpm. I will try checking timing. When you say compression check, is that compression of fuel pump or engine cylinder? If fuel pump, how do you check that compression?


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Compression check is of the engine and accomplished by removing all the injectors and using an adapter that mimics the injector and connects to a 500psi gauge (1000psi)
The same can b accomplished thru the glow plug hole if equipped..
Smoking can b a product of loose valves too.. when was the last time u checked/adjusted the valves in the head.??
I cringe when folks say they “replaced” the injectors.!! I take that to mean they bought some off the web.??
It’s been my experience that 99.9% of them are junk.. That’s just been my experience.. they either have the wrong tip in them or they’re set to the wrong pressure or they’re full of metal shards.
I tested a few sets that hit the TRI-Fecta.. wrong tip, wrong pressure and stuck open and closed from metal shards.
It’s buyer beware when it comes to mechanical parts on the internet..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The vale lash was checked and adjusted about two years ago. I will do that again. I will check the compression. The injectors were cleaned and checked by you. I looked into checking the timing and decided it was too complex at the time, but I might need to do it. The cleaned injectors made a big difference in starting, but I ended up with black oil always leaking out of exhaust area.


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Lol.. screen names ALWAYS confuse me..
I’m glad it helped..
 
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