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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Hello, I'm waiting for a new oil pump drive and in the meantime I decided to look in the differential and I ordered a new seal and bearings for the PTO, but don't anyone have a trick to remove the hydraulic filter over the gear plate on the transmission handbrake? I don't want to take out the whole brake.
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View attachment 75818
Hello, please advise me why there is a screw on the side of the oil pump? I don't have it on the new pump and it's on the old pump. View attachment 75817
The washer (10) stops the relief valve assembly (6-8) from being pushed out (6 is above your thumb nail). I think you are supposed to reuse the screw and washer (9 and 10) on the new pump.

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You are doing a great job, and will have a tractor that will serve you for a long time.

Glad to see you still have the headlight lenses with the angled face. The front does not look the same with the standard "domed" lenses.

Sturdy fenders with a passengers seat, but sometimes you have to sit on the other side:
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
I greet you, the start of the engine and the first ride was successful, but my radiator started to bleeding, but I'll buy a new one, but I can't move the draft control lever now. can there be something wrong?
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation
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a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation View attachment 75981
You have a nice and tidy shop to work in.

Sorry, I can not give an edjucated advice to help with the draft control problem. I would try the handle with the arms as high as possible, as low as possible and change the flow rate with the knob to see if something inside clicks in place.

One thought:
I would get a conversion kit for a spin-on engine oil filter. I do not trust the by-pass function on the old cartridge type:
You have spent a lot of money and time on the engine, better give it a proper lubrication.

Do you need to do the inspection every year, or is it one time to get a license plate?

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
A conversion to a spin on filter is planned, but I can't get this conversion in Europe. in the meantime, I put an analog meter instead of a pressure sensor. lubricates to 5 bars at idle. The brand of tractor, however, has to undergo a technical inspection once every 4 years, otherwise it must not be on the road
 

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A conversion to a spin on filter is planned, but I can't get this conversion in Europe. in the meantime, I put an analog meter instead of a pressure sensor. lubricates to 5 bars at idle. The brand of tractor, however, has to undergo a technical inspection once every 4 years, otherwise it must not be on the road
Histoparts in the Netherlands seems to have it. I linked to it in the previous post. That is the cheapest I have found. They want €16.50 for shipping to Czech Republic, but perhaps you find more items that can travel along.

If you want to search you can use the OEM numbers on the Agriline site:

309825, 309825F, 81821119 or DBPN309825

It is not a pressure problem I am afraid of, it is the by-pass function. If the filter is clogged with dirt, pressure rises at the filter inlet. To avoid a filter collapse, the by-pass valve opens and lets the unfiltered oil pass by the filter and into the engine bearings. A fifty year old spring and the design are not reliable, in my opinion. It may very well by-pass the filter at all times. A modern spin-on filter has an inbuilt by-pass valve. More reliable and it is renewed at filter change.
 
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