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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I checked the screws and I had three screws longer and the rest of the shorter, longer ones I put in a bigger circle. I'm composing slowly but surely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Looking good, you are on the homestretch now!
thank you, it's going slowly. I change all the seals and bearings. When I drained the oil, a lot of water was included. I think the engine will be running next week
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Hello, I'm waiting for a new oil pump drive and in the meantime I decided to look in the differential and I ordered a new seal and bearings for the PTO, but don't anyone have a trick to remove the hydraulic filter over the gear plate on the transmission handbrake? I don't want to take out the whole brake.
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Unfortunately I have no advice. Thanks for the picture, I have not seen the brake gears arrangement before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Hello, I'll add some photos after a while. I'm waiting from England for an oil pump. So
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I started cleaning the back of the tractor
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
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Hello, please advise me why there is a screw on the side of the oil pump? I don't have it on the new pump and it's on the old pump.
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Thank you for the advice. it occurs to me that I change everything on the tractor. but it already looks like a tractor.
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Good luck, remember that when bleeding the fuel system it can take quite a while before the air is out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
I greet you, the start of the engine and the first ride was successful, but my radiator started to bleeding, but I'll buy a new one, but I can't move the draft control lever now. can there be something wrong?
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation
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a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation View attachment 75981
You have a nice and tidy shop to work in.

Sorry, I can not give an edjucated advice to help with the draft control problem. I would try the handle with the arms as high as possible, as low as possible and change the flow rate with the knob to see if something inside clicks in place.

One thought:
I would get a conversion kit for a spin-on engine oil filter. I do not trust the by-pass function on the old cartridge type:
You have spent a lot of money and time on the engine, better give it a proper lubrication.

Do you need to do the inspection every year, or is it one time to get a license plate?

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
A conversion to a spin on filter is planned, but I can't get this conversion in Europe. in the meantime, I put an analog meter instead of a pressure sensor. lubricates to 5 bars at idle. The brand of tractor, however, has to undergo a technical inspection once every 4 years, otherwise it must not be on the road
 

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A conversion to a spin on filter is planned, but I can't get this conversion in Europe. in the meantime, I put an analog meter instead of a pressure sensor. lubricates to 5 bars at idle. The brand of tractor, however, has to undergo a technical inspection once every 4 years, otherwise it must not be on the road
Histoparts in the Netherlands seems to have it. I linked to it in the previous post. That is the cheapest I have found. They want €16.50 for shipping to Czech Republic, but perhaps you find more items that can travel along.

If you want to search you can use the OEM numbers on the Agriline site:

309825, 309825F, 81821119 or DBPN309825

It is not a pressure problem I am afraid of, it is the by-pass function. If the filter is clogged with dirt, pressure rises at the filter inlet. To avoid a filter collapse, the by-pass valve opens and lets the unfiltered oil pass by the filter and into the engine bearings. A fifty year old spring and the design are not reliable, in my opinion. It may very well by-pass the filter at all times. A modern spin-on filter has an inbuilt by-pass valve. More reliable and it is renewed at filter change.
 
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