Thank you, I'll check it completely
Ford 3000 cylinder sleeve
Hi, I'm new here. I'm from Czech Republic. Ford 3000 from 66 'came to me. was in a very bad condition. yesterday I found that there is a hole in the bottom of the cylinder, caused by the poor condition of the coolant and the subsequent cavitation. the walls of the cylinder will be in poor condition. Is it possible to install wet sleeves? did anyone do it? Thanks for the reply and I apologize for Google English. 
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thank you, it's going slowly. I change all the seals and bearings. When I drained the oil, a lot of water was included. I think the engine will be running next week
Hello, I'm waiting for a new oil pump drive and in the meantime I decided to look in the differential and I ordered a new seal and bearings for the PTO, but don't anyone have a trick to remove the hydraulic filter over the gear plate on the transmission handbrake? I don't want to take out the whole brake.
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Hello, I'll add some photos after a while. I'm waiting from England for an oil pump. So
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I started cleaning the back of the tractor
I started cleaning the back of the tractor
Hello, please advise me why there is a screw on the side of the oil pump? I don't have it on the new pump and it's on the old pump.
The washer (10) stops the relief valve assembly (6-8) from being pushed out (6 is above your thumb nail). I think you are supposed to reuse the screw and washer (9 and 10) on the new pump.
Thank you for the advice. it occurs to me that I change everything on the tractor. but it already looks like a tractor.
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I want to try the first start on Sunday. if I succeed, I'll provide a video
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I greet you, the start of the engine and the first ride was successful, but my radiator started to bleeding, but I'll buy a new one, but I can't move the draft control lever now. can there be something wrong?
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a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation
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You have a nice and tidy shop to work in.
Sorry, I can not give an edjucated advice to help with the draft control problem. I would try the handle with the arms as high as possible, as low as possible and change the flow rate with the knob to see if something inside clicks in place.
One thought:
I would get a conversion kit for a spin-on engine oil filter. I do not trust the by-pass function on the old cartridge type:
Oil filter conversion kit. Ford - Histoparts
Conversion for thick inner oil filter to new type of oil filterFord: 2000, 3000, 4000, 4100, 4110, 5000, 7000
histoparts.com
Do you need to do the inspection every year, or is it one time to get a license plate?
Good luck!
Histoparts in the Netherlands seems to have it. I linked to it in the previous post. That is the cheapest I have found. They want €16.50 for shipping to Czech Republic, but perhaps you find more items that can travel along.
If you want to search you can use the OEM numbers on the Agriline site:
Oil Filter Conversion Kit suitable for Ford & Fordson - 309825 309825F 81821119 DBPN309825
Oil Filter Conversion Kit use 80002 or 80005 filter
309825, 309825F, 81821119 or DBPN309825
It is not a pressure problem I am afraid of, it is the by-pass function. If the filter is clogged with dirt, pressure rises at the filter inlet. To avoid a filter collapse, the by-pass valve opens and lets the unfiltered oil pass by the filter and into the engine bearings. A fifty year old spring and the design are not reliable, in my opinion. It may very well by-pass the filter at all times. A modern spin-on filter has an inbuilt by-pass valve. More reliable and it is renewed at filter change.
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