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Yes, Tatra has done well in the dunes, but they also had an excellent driver.

Actually, when you mentioned your home country in the first post, I thought that there have to be loads of shops that can fix this engine. You have a long history of top notch engineering and skillful mechanics.

Don't forget the forum, please keep us posted about the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Your forum is great! The approach to newcomers is amazing. You can see that you are still a healthy group. by the end of the week I will take pictures of the damage to my engine and I will pray that in the Tatra workshops they will repair what the previous owner did wrong
 

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Strange positions if it is from cavitation, the cylinder walls are not flexing much down there.
I think I understand now what your mechanic meant, he was worried that the block material behind the holes is damaged/porous. Perhaps that can be welded/brazed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I'm inserting a small update. the Tatras drilled a hole in the workshops. The engine goes to Slovakia today because Tatra sends blocks for soldering / welding holes there. I think that due to the situation in the Czech Republic, my block is the biggest traveler ever
 

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I'm inserting a small update. the Tatras drilled a hole in the workshops. The engine goes to Slovakia today because Tatra sends blocks for soldering / welding holes there. I think that due to the situation in the Czech Republic, my block is the biggest traveler ever
Good to hear from you.
Your country has been hit pretty hard this time, luckily, engine blocks are allowed to travel.

Stay safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I greet you after a long time. I was brought an engine block after repair today. looks very good. next week the crank will be ready. one connecting rod had to be repaired. I'm really looking forward to the first start of the engine. less, however, for payment
72591
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole
73791
 

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Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole View attachment 73791
Glad to hear from you!

This is a diagram for an 8-speed transmission, maybe you have another one but the parts look alike:

It is a weep hole that is supposed to evacuate transmission oil when the seals behind the wall get worn. Without the hole, the leaking oil would follow the hollow shaft and mess up the clutch. Instead, it runs down the wall to the bottom of the bell housing and out on the ground through the weep hole there.

When the engine is removed, the shaft arrangements are not centered or supported any longer. That can make oil pass through worn/hardened seals and out through the hole. Drain the transmission through the drain plug hole before you pull the retainer. Otherwise you will have a mess inside the bell housing. Change bearings and seals while you have the tractor split.
 

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Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole View attachment 73791
The hole is so you can put a drift punch in it and drive out the old seal. Seal would be darned hard to get out otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Thank you for your response. great idea to get the seal through the hole. is there a trick to take off the big cast iron lid? I tried it with a reverse hammer but I'm afraid I won't damage the lid
73854
 

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Thank you for your response. great idea to get the seal through the hole. is there a trick to take off the big cast iron lid? I tried it with a reverse hammer but I'm afraid I won't damage the lid View attachment 73854
It has to go straight out, there are dowel pins at 3 and 9 o'clock. Screw in a bolt a couple of turns in the top hole, so you do not drop the cover. Try to move the plate with some wedges, evenly placed around the perimeter. If there is gasket sealant under the cover, break it by going around with a thin knife or a feeler gauge once you have a gap. Acetone or isopropanol can help.

*** Edit
You could put back the (now empty) bearing support first. That would strengthen the cover and give you a "handle" to pull and wiggle with.
***
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Today is the day they brought my engine from the repair, it was a long time unfortunately. I'll send a photo tomorrow. I have a question to begin with, do the head screws belong to the washers? or is it possible that they were not there?
 

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Today is the day they brought my engine from the repair, it was a long time unfortunately. I'll send a photo tomorrow. I have a question to begin with, do the head screws belong to the washers? or is it possible that they were not there?
Hi there!
If I am not wrong, only the four long bolts, that also holds the rocker shaft, has washers. I hope someone can confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hello, I'm putting the shaft back from the gearbox and I was surprised by two longer screws on the support plate. do they have their special place? Or it can be dowel pins at 3 and 9 o'clock?
 

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The five screws (#13) for the bearing support are 7/8" (~ 22.2 mm) long.
The seven screws (#17) for the support plate are 1 1/8" (~ 28.6 mm) long.
Dowel pins (#15) are cylindrical pins (no threads) 11/16" (~ 17.5 mm) long.

Perhaps you have used five of the long screws for the bearing support?
Beware, bottom holes.

White Font Line Parallel Auto part
 
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