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Looking at the hole pattern for the cylinder head, I think that is a 4.4" bore block. If so, it is most certainly a BSD333 block with 4.4" stroke, and it is of the newer cross hatch (waffle) type. That means that you need a lot of new parts inside to make it work. You also need another injection pump (or have the old one rebult) and other injectors.
Ask the seller what the bores are.

You might go for a short motor BSD333:
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson-short-motor-bsd333-7828
but parts add up; Bolt sets, oil pump (if not included), injection pump. injectors...

Send an email to these guys:
https://www.timik.co.uk/index.html
and ask if they can get you a proper block.
If money is not the issue, they have remanufactured engines, plug and play:
https://www.timik.co.uk/ford-3-cylinder-tractor-engines.html

Other companies that maybe can help you:
https://www.emmarkuk.com/
https://histoparts.com/en
https://old20tractorparts.com/
https://www.schlepper-teile.de/de/index.pmode
 

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You have right it Is 4,4" bore. :( So what Now. dealings with the UK are now very complicated.
That is a bummer.

Yes, I know how complicated it is nowadays to buy from the UK (I am in Sweden). Perhaps the UK companys can give you some advice, at least?
Try the Dutch and German sites I linked to:
https://histoparts.com/en
https://www.schlepper-teile.de/de/index.pmode

Maybe this Irish company can help:
https://tractorspares.ie/

Poland:
http://www.stelmax.slask.com.pl/s5-kontakt.html

Denmark:
http://veterantraktordele.dk/page.asp?PageID=51
[email protected]

Sweden:
https://tktraktordelar.se/en/
 

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The bolt problem is solved by using studs with 9/16" threads for the block and a 1/2" shank with 1/2" threads on top. Same problem for the timing cover bolt holes as for the head bolt holes, but I think those are 5/16" and 1/2" threads.

See under tab "More info":
https://old20tractorparts.com/4000/3365-short-motor-bsd333-2028024.html

Timing cover studs:
https://old20tractorparts.com/2610/...l?search_query=+timing+cover+kit+&results=378

Head studs:
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson-cylinder-head-stud-kit-ford-3cyl-9939
 

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The head studs would solve his head interchange. I had not heard of those.
Pricy though.
He shouldn't need the timing cover studs. The timing cover bolts to the front block plate - both of which he would be reusing from his old engine.
I checked some parts lists, the threads for the timing cover bolts changed from 5/16" to 3/8" during the 30-series production. These blocks are probably made as one size fits all, and therefore they have 3/8" threads.
 

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On ebay.de the same seller has a block for sale. The pictures are the same as on kleinanzagen, but here is also one with a ruler showing the bore size.

On kleinanzagen the block is new:
https://m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-a...-ford-2000-3000-2600-3600/1493158754-276-2638

On ebay.de the block is used, but further down it is new?:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-FO...940991?hash=item1cf1fc7f3f:g:BKgAAOSwxuNfSd6P

Perhaps there are two different blocks for sale, one new and one used, and the seller just reused the pictures from one of them. If so, that has to be mentioned in the ad.

There are some signs that can mean that this is a remanufactured block, but it can also be a returned new block. Nothing of that means that there is something wrong with it, but if it has been machined in any way you need to check it personally before buying. The bores may have been honed to a point where you need oversized pistons, for instance.
 

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yes, dry sleeves are also available in the Czech Republic, but my mechanic, who specializes in engine repairs, told me that the hole is located on the lower edge of the liner and the coolant will not hold it and will flow back into the oil.
It would be interesting to watch some pictures showing the damages.
You say liner, does your engine have liners?
How far from the block top surface are the damages?
 

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Yes, Tatra has done well in the dunes, but they also had an excellent driver.

Actually, when you mentioned your home country in the first post, I thought that there have to be loads of shops that can fix this engine. You have a long history of top notch engineering and skillful mechanics.

Don't forget the forum, please keep us posted about the progress.
 

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Strange positions if it is from cavitation, the cylinder walls are not flexing much down there.
I think I understand now what your mechanic meant, he was worried that the block material behind the holes is damaged/porous. Perhaps that can be welded/brazed?
 

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I'm inserting a small update. the Tatras drilled a hole in the workshops. The engine goes to Slovakia today because Tatra sends blocks for soldering / welding holes there. I think that due to the situation in the Czech Republic, my block is the biggest traveler ever
Good to hear from you.
Your country has been hit pretty hard this time, luckily, engine blocks are allowed to travel.

Stay safe.
 

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Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole View attachment 73791
Glad to hear from you!

This is a diagram for an 8-speed transmission, maybe you have another one but the parts look alike:

It is a weep hole that is supposed to evacuate transmission oil when the seals behind the wall get worn. Without the hole, the leaking oil would follow the hollow shaft and mess up the clutch. Instead, it runs down the wall to the bottom of the bell housing and out on the ground through the weep hole there.

When the engine is removed, the shaft arrangements are not centered or supported any longer. That can make oil pass through worn/hardened seals and out through the hole. Drain the transmission through the drain plug hole before you pull the retainer. Otherwise you will have a mess inside the bell housing. Change bearings and seals while you have the tractor split.
 

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Thank you for your response. great idea to get the seal through the hole. is there a trick to take off the big cast iron lid? I tried it with a reverse hammer but I'm afraid I won't damage the lid View attachment 73854
It has to go straight out, there are dowel pins at 3 and 9 o'clock. Screw in a bolt a couple of turns in the top hole, so you do not drop the cover. Try to move the plate with some wedges, evenly placed around the perimeter. If there is gasket sealant under the cover, break it by going around with a thin knife or a feeler gauge once you have a gap. Acetone or isopropanol can help.

*** Edit
You could put back the (now empty) bearing support first. That would strengthen the cover and give you a "handle" to pull and wiggle with.
***
 

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Today is the day they brought my engine from the repair, it was a long time unfortunately. I'll send a photo tomorrow. I have a question to begin with, do the head screws belong to the washers? or is it possible that they were not there?
Hi there!
If I am not wrong, only the four long bolts, that also holds the rocker shaft, has washers. I hope someone can confirm.
 

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The five screws (#13) for the bearing support are 7/8" (~ 22.2 mm) long.
The seven screws (#17) for the support plate are 1 1/8" (~ 28.6 mm) long.
Dowel pins (#15) are cylindrical pins (no threads) 11/16" (~ 17.5 mm) long.

Perhaps you have used five of the long screws for the bearing support?
Beware, bottom holes.

White Font Line Parallel Auto part
 
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