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Ford 1510 leaking oil out exhaust

Discussion in 'Ford / New Holland' started by Asymair95, May 3, 2018.

  1. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    My 1510 is spitting and leaking oil out the exhaust.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It uses quite a bit of oil too, about a quart every half tank of fuel. The breather does have some air coming out, but not a lot of oil. Here is a pick of the breather hose.

    [​IMG]

    I’m wondering if this is rings or valve guides? It spits oil out more pronounced at anything over 2000 rpm and smokes real bad. It always smokes a bit though no matter what rpm it is at.

    Can someone point me in the right direction here? I just finished rebuilding/restoring this tractor a few months ago. It had a bad injection pump when I got it and would barely run. Now that it is running properly I’m discovering this oil issue.
     
  2. marc_hanna

    marc_hanna Registered User

    Could be some bad blow-by. You could start off by checking the the compression.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum
     

  3. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    I checked compression and all cylinders were between 300-310.
     
  4. marc_hanna

    marc_hanna Registered User

    I’m not sure what the specs are for that engine, but it seems quite low.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum
     
  5. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Looks like "diesel slobbering" or "wet stacking". It is caused by not working the engine hard enough to burn off exhaust residue. Put the tractor to work and that black crap will disappear. Diesels love hard work.
     
    FredM and dozer966 like this.
  6. RC Wells

    RC Wells Well-Known Member

    Dec 25, 2008
    Compression is in the good range for that engine. You say you rebuilt the tractor, did that include rings, or just the injection pump?

    If you rebuilt the engine, and are experiencing high oil consumption, I would suggest the oil rings have not seated. If you just renewed the injection pump, then I would speculate a compound problem; dirty injectors drooling fuel in the intake, which in turn will gum the oil ring spacers causing excessive oil consumption. The diesel is also not fully combusting because of the drool, and is mixing with the unburned engine oil and leading to the slobber sixbales refers to.

    This can be an easy fix if you are using a high quality multi-viscosity high detergent oil, by simply really loading the engine to the point the pistons get hot enough to clear the crud from the oil control ring spacers. But you need to be sure your injectors are clean and patterning properly. It will take several hours of heavy loading of the engine, and a couple of oil changes, but it should clear the oil consumption and slobbering issues.

    It can also be a difficult fix if the oil consumption remains high, in that the pistons and cylinders will require rebuilding.

    I see this sort of problem if an engine has the rings replaced and the cylinders are tapered, as that results in too much flex in the oil control rings and they will not seal.
     
    FredM, dozer966 and sixbales like this.
  7. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Active Member

    446
    Jan 25, 2015
    "Slobbering" for sure.. IF the oil level is correct.. pull the stick & MAKE SURE your not getting any fuel in the oil.
    Work the snot out of a fresh engine.. the rings have not "seated"..
    IF you wanna get the fuel system re-done, I'm available.. just send me a PM.
     
    FredM and dozer966 like this.
  8. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    The pump was sent out and rebuilt, and the injectors were sent out to Oregon fuel injection for rebuild.

    I did not open up the engine and replace rings. I adjusted valves and that was about it.

    I did some more research online and read that this slobbering could be from prolonged periods of idling. I was indeed idling the tractor a bunch while hauling firewood. I would drive down to the woods at around 2000 rpm, then idle down to 1400 rpm while I loaded rounds of wood into the bucket and carryall, I would then drive back to the house at around 2000 rpm. I would then idle back down to 1400 while stacking the wood. Unloading and loading would take several minutes each time. I spent days doing this.

    I’m still perplexed as to the oil consumption though.
     
  9. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    Would a thicker viscosity oil help with consumption. Maybe some Lucas oil treatment?
     
  10. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Active Member

    446
    Jan 25, 2015
    If you don't have the equipment to put it to work.. I've seen people "push" a tree..
    Just put the front end against a big tree, drop it in gear & "mash the gas" for an hour or so..
    Just riding around at hi rpms wont do the trick.. you have to put a load on the engine..
    pulling a scraper, pulling a bush hog, running a tiller..ect..
    I guess "rebuilding/restoring this tractor" [see post #1] have different meanings to different people..
     
  11. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    I have a box blade, landscape rake, and Bush hog that will work her good. I was just afraid of causing engine damage because it was smoking so much. Our dirt road is full of potholes, so I will try dragging the blade around for a few hours.

    I wouldn’t say this is a full restoration, I just wanted to get her mechanically sound and looking good before I put her to work. I didn’t see any reason to open up the engine because the compression was respectable.

    When box blading and ripping with the shanks what rpm should the engine be at? Max rpm is 3000. Do I need the engine screaming like that though?
     
  12. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Active Member

    446
    Jan 25, 2015
    Depending on the pump mdl. it might have the "full load" rpm stamped on the name plate.. looks like> 54/800/2/2800.. the 800 is "full load" rpm [double it].. so 1600.
    The 2800 is hi idle no-load rpm..
     
  13. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    I’m not sure I follow, where should I set the rpm while ripping with the box blade?
     
  14. RC Wells

    RC Wells Well-Known Member

    Dec 25, 2008
    2,800 rpm no load, then it will pull down to around 2,240 when properly loaded, which should also put you near the 540 pto flag on the tach. Use transmission gears to select optimum ground speed.

    If it does not pull hard enough to run at 2,240, then throttle down to achieve optimum load rpm.
     
    dozer966 and sixbales like this.
  15. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    Thank you, will report back with findings.
     
  16. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    The puzzling thing about this tractor is the oil consumption.....a quart of oil for a half tank of fuel?? You have a major problem.
     
  17. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    Yes, agreed. I’m going to look at changing valve guide seals, as it is fairly cheap and easy to do.

    While adjusting the valves I discovered the oil supply line for the rocker arm shaft missing.

    [​IMG]

    You can see the oil galley hole on the lower right side.

    I fabbed up a new line that seems to be working well.

    [​IMG]

    The rocker bosses wore pretty bad because of this, but I was able to adjust most of it out. After installing the tube is when I noticed the oil consumption and smoke.
     
  18. sixbales

    sixbales Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2011
    Well, you should have told us this in the first place! Without lubrication, your valve stems, valve guides, rockers, etc., may be worn badly out of spec.

    I'm really surprised that tube isn't a steel pipe. Is that a New Holland part? They call it a pipe. See item #53 on attached diagram.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 6, 2018
    RC Wells likes this.
  19. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    No, the part is no longer available. I had to fab one up from heat resistant ptfe tubing.

    There was still oil flowing up through the gallery hole, but I’m sure it wasn’t making it to the rear cylinder. This is probably why the rear cylinder exhaust port was blocked off with soot.
     
  20. Asymair95

    Asymair95 Member

    37
    Nov 21, 2017
    Here is a before and after of the #3 cylinder exhaust port.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    The valve clearances were way off, like .060 from the wear.