Tractor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've gone to the edge of the web and found nothing. I even tried a paid service who was supposed to be a tractor expert to no avail. Here's the deal. I sent the machine to have a new 3 cyl New Holland engine installed shortly after buying as it developed an engine knock.
The motor is great but now I suffer problems that the tractor didn't have prior. The transmission and 3 point system seem to have slow to operate hydraulic pressure.

1. Shifting into 1 2 3 or 4th on the trans stick then using the forward reverse lever there is a long delay moving forward or reverse. If you mess around with the RPM it eventually moves. The Trans oil is 134D type and is full. If it finally locks up the torque converter with high RPM it jolts forward or reverse. Never gets better after warming up.

2. The 3 point system takes many minutes to finally start to operate. After idling for some time the Gannon box will finally raise up and operate. The tilt controls also are non-op during that
period of time.

I keep hearing of some oil pick up screen that can become clogged but no one shows exactly where that is. I noticed there is a dipstick nut on the top of the trans. It reads full and the oil is clean.
The rear end also has two fill caps left and right. No dipstick. Im getting the impression that they are two separate systems. The pump mounted to the side of the engine appears to be gear driven off the flywheel possibly. I removed the filter and there is no oil in the filter even when running, no oil. The two lines run to the rear end section of the tractor on the Right side under the pedal floor boards.

Anyone who knows these machines can hopefully help me out....
 
G

·
Hi and welcome from one member to another. Sorry, I know nothing about a 545. Be a little patient and one of the more experienced guys will surely give you some help. In the meantime, I had a similar unsatisfactory experience with my NH dealer and eventually went to the owner of the business and got a complete refund after explaining the situation to him. If you find out this is related to the engine change procedure, I'd make the owner of your dealership aware, and perhaps he, meaning the owner, would find a way to make it right. Seems the 545 was built in the mid 80's? Probably not a lot of experience in the dealership if that's the case.
 
G

·
PS> I was advised that my 3 cylinder gas engine needed rebuilding at NH. I was astonished as when it ran, it was with clear exhaust, did not use or blow oil and had power to auger a 1' hole 3 ft deep in red clay.....at an idle. The NH mechanic did compression checks with an improper procedure making low readings, misadjusted the timing and did not notice that the generator only put out 12.3v causing my hard starting condition. I was lucky to have been given the name of a reliable tractor repair mechanic from my auto mechanic and got it all sorted out.
 
G

·
Do you have the operator/owner's manual? It will tell you where to check fill levels in the various components and the guys here can tell you what the proper modern fluids are as the ford spec numbers are now largely meaningless.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,470 Posts
Howdy Hank, welcome to the tractor forum.

Sounds like you are very low on hydraulic fluid. The rear end and transmission are separate reservoirs. The rear differential section also serves as your hydraulic reservoir. You can use either one of the two filler caps on top of the rear end. Take your pick. There is no dipstick, just oil level check plugs. See attached picture (photo compliments of UltradogMN). The front plug (right) circled in red is your transmission oil level check plug. The rear (left) plug circled in red is the rear differential fluid level check plug. These plugs are square-headed pipe plugs.

Pour 134D equivalent Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) into the filler ports till fluid runs out of the fluid level check port.

Blue Light Azure Hood Gas
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow
So many folks helping out already! Yes I do have the operator and service manual. The maintenance manual covers several models and location of oil pickups is non existent. The manual has differences that don’t seem to be exact to my model in the few pictures they offer up.

Yes its a late 80s Early 90s model 3 Cyl diesel. So Cal tractor did the work and I can’t complain about the new engine. But these problems came up a short time after it came home. Thy won’t do anything about it. Towing to and from was costly. So I’m on my own.

What do you all think about the fact the gear pump on the engine having no oil in the filter even at idle with the filter being removed there is no oil showing up. Very low oil condition in the rear diff?

Yes using a 134 rated oil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,470 Posts
Top up the rear differential reservoir as a first step. Could be a low oil condition.

Regarding the filter you refer to, see attached parts diagram. Is this what you have?

Regarding the suction screen, it is deep down in the bowels of the reservoir, major job to get to it. Some day in the future, if you have to pull the lift cover to make repairs to the hydraulic system, you can clean the suction screen. The suction screen has a large capacity, and will provide adequate fluid. Until then, don't worry about it.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,470 Posts
The pump sucks oil through the filter, so if you take the filter off, you get nothing. And the pump sucks air.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
1,097 Posts
If the filter is dry and the tractor has been operated for any length of time, chances are the pump is toast at this point. Aluminum block pumps such as this have a low survival rate when run dry. An hour can do serious damage. At this point I would first confirm rear end oil level as mentioned, remove the filter once again, and using squirt can pump as much oil into the filter adapter(suction side of the pump) as possible. Loosen the pump outlet fitting fitting a few turns, screw the filter back on and start the engine. If the pump picks up prime in thirty seconds or so and spews oil from the loose fitting, then you still have a chance. If not, start looking for a new pump.
The transmission issue is a different problem entirely. The parts diagrams show the suction screen, pump and valve components are all inside the front of the transmission, along with the converter. I admit I'm no expert on this transmission, but I can see the possibility for some type of damage to any those parts as the engine is slipped back into place if things are not properly supported and aligned without splines being forced together etc. I wonder if any of the problems were present when the tractor first came home, or did that develop later? Was any of this noticed just since the onset of colder temperatures?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the help so far. I will get home and try to top off the oil in the Diff as suggested
first off. The work was done at a proper dealership and I did see the tractor split when the engine was being built. Seems they had the correct jigs and rollers to get it back together properly. The tractor was returned home and seemed to operate OK the first day but the transmission problem started acting up the 2nd round of work. The 3 point did not run dry for any length of time but was not working instantly as it did in the past. I am in Southern California so 60 - 70 degrees is about as cold as its gotten so far.
The forward and reverse linkage seems not to move the shaft very far in rotation. In the Manual it states that the length of the ends should be something like 13.75 inches apart and is adjustable. There is a limited amount of rotation on the forward and reverse lever maybe 30 degrees so I can see the length could make the throw short if not the proper length. That will have to be removed and checked. I did add some Hydraulic fluid to the rear end and the 3 point did start working much sooner. As 6bales has shown how to find the level with the plug removed thats the next thing on both the trans and the rear end.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,675 Posts
You raise a couple red flags.

Auger? Does this tractor have a PTO? Reason for question is the torque converter transmission was not available with the independent PTO.

Towing: You mention it was towed. If you do have the torque converter transmission, these tractors are never towed as that destroys both the converter and the clutch packs. Knocks the friction material off the clutch packs, then it is sucked into the intake screen for the hydraulics and reduces available line pressure to the clutch packs, and they begin to slip and operate erratically. Gives the symptom of a torque converter not building pressure, hence no motive power. The material also ends up in the pump section of the torque converter and leads to failure. Always trailer or haul the tractor if it is unable to move on its own power.

Loader: I presume the tractor has a loader. There is an electrically activated "return to dig" switch on the loader arm. When the tractor is split the harness is disconnected down by the operator's platform. If that wiring harness was snagged as you used the tractor, or the service personnel did not secure the connectors adequately, the hydraulic system pressure can be bled off from the main system unless it is equipped with the optional front drive pump for the loader only. You will know if it has the optional pump by looking at the front of the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi RC. No PTO port at all with the Gannon box.

It was towed riding on a fancy Landall equipment trailer being pulled by a fancy Kenworth 60 miles to the shop. 300 bucks each way. No rope towing.
It does have a front loader. That system is drivin by a rotary pump drivin off of the front pulley. That separate system works perfectly as soon as it is started. I replaced the harness ont the machine a year ago with a new complete one. There in no return to dig system on this 545a anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,675 Posts
Okay, that tells me more than it may seem. Pull an oil sample from the transmission and get it tested. Most tractor dealers have a test kit and lab service, if not your Cat dealer does.

I suspect your hydraulic pump failed, but you want to know why before you throw a new one at the tractor. The oil test will point out any contaminants that may result in repeated failure.

What I suspect is if there is high aluminum concentration in the hydraulic oil you will need to drain and replace the oil with new oil. But when the sump is empty pull the cover and clean the intake screen in the transmission. Replace all the filters in the hydraulic system (loader excepted) and then replace the hydraulic pump.

If the aluminum contamination is in the normal range, pull the three point Hydraulic Lift Cover, and Hydraulic Shaft components, then carefully inspect item numbers 21, 22, and 23 on the diagram.

If any of those parts have failed your hydraulic pump cannot keep up with the flow and will wear excessively, to the point it will no longer prime.

While that unit is open go down inside the sump and replace filter #59, and the two O rings #60, and clean or replace filter #71 and replace O ring #74 on the hydraulic system drawings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Great news,
It was a long but good day on the repairs. The Gannon / 3 point hitch is pressurizing and working great as soon as the tractor is started. It was indeed a low fluid level in the rear differential. It didn’t take much but that did the trick.

The transmission is no longer clunking into forward and reverse any longer as well. I dumped the oil completely and it did look clear and clean as it was changed within the year BUT I used a generic hydraulic / transmission fluid from OReilieys auto parts last time. I still have the container and it claimed it was Ford 134c and d comparable.

I swapped out appx 5 gallons with Tractor Supply Premium Fluid 134 abcd rated. I also replaced the filter that was also only a Year old. I blew air thru the lines goin to and from the trans cooler / radiator. I pulled the suction tube adjacent to the torque converter out of-the left side of the trans. The o rings on the banjo fitting and the internal tube were rotten. Re fitted with new o rings and now all is working great.

Last worry is the engine temp slowly climbs to the upper limit after working for a while. 20 mins or so. It won’t overheat in the winter cool weather but it did in summer. The Radiator seems clean internally and the engine is new as is the water pump. I removed the thermostat but nothing changed. Maybe need to start a new thread on cooling system diagnostics if no one picks it up here

Thanks to all of you this site is a blessing !!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,675 Posts
When the tractor is hot use a laser thermometer and check the temperature of the hydraulic line to the radiator.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,675 Posts
Normal operation immediately after being worked an hour or so, should be around 170 to 200 degrees F. Any hotter and you should perform a line pressure test on the hydraulic system.

If the clutch packs start slipping it runs the temperature up in a hurry.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top