[steventhomas42]

While I was painting my Seat and Fender Deck last night, I sort of noticed for the first time three holes surrounding the "corrugated" foot rest area on each side of the mower.

I checked JDParts online and the ilustration actually shows six holes on each side, as if they were made to accomodate screws to hold down a foot pad, but no such animal is shown on the diagram.

Does anyone know if a set of rubber footpads were an option on the 180? I am thinking of making some out of thick black floormat material just to protect the paint and to reduce the possibility of slipping when there's dew on the ground.

Any thoughts?

Steve :tractorsm

 

[guest2]

I think if done right they'd be a nice addition although I'm not familiar with that model to know if it originally had them.

 

[Greg]

Steve,

My 170 has the same 3 holes (drain holes?) on the foot rests. My parts manual also shows 6 holes, but no part number for any kind of mat. The pics in the operations manual shows only 3 holes and no mat.

You might also think about a "Rino Liner" type material to paint on.

Greg

 

[Chris]

Husky liners perhaps?

:furious: :furious: :furious:

 

[steventhomas42]

Drain Holes could be it, but two of them are up on the end of the foot rest, right under the pedals, where the metal is at about a 45 degree angle.

It would have to be pretty acrobatic water to stand at that kind of slant long enough to rust something

Anyway, I'm thinking up 1/8" to 1/4" thick ribbed black rubber (like a truck cargo liner) mounted using chrome carriage bolts for a smooth finish.

 

[Greg]

Steve,

I think the holes at the angled point of the foot rest will drain water coming down the side of the ribs on the rest.

I can't see JD putting a rubber mat on top of the ribs. It seems that water/dirt would tend to accumulate between the ribs and the mat. A non-slip paint on material would, IMO, be better. The "paint" could also be applied to the underside of the rests for added protection.

How difficult was it to remove the seat/fender deck? I need to do mine too. How much time.

Do you have any pics? Before/after?

Greg

 

[CatDaddy]

You could use the DupliColor bedliner in the aerosol cans (<$7 at AutoZone). One can would be more than enough, unless you want to build up a really thick surface. You wouldn't have to drill holes, or worry about additional places for rust to start.

Another option would be 'grip' tape, like that used on the deck of a skateboard. It comes in various widths & colors AND it sticks really well (plus it's dirt cheap). We put some on the nerf bars of my bro-in-law's truck a couple of years ago & it hasn't started to peel yet.

 

[Chipmaker]

There is no pad available for the 180's and the hles are for drian use only, not pad mounting. If yo have a 180, or 170 thru 185 and the paint is not lifted off the foot rest area you have a rare machine. I have only seen a few used machine of this series that the paint did not come off in large flakes in the foot rest area.
Not the first hint of a primer on the metal at all. I seriously doubt JD uses primer on anything when you get right down to it. I sand blasted my entire deck on my old 180, and coated the bottom portion with automotive rubberized undercoating, and on topside used polyurethane 2 part primer and also 2 part poly finish coat.

The corrugation design on the 180 does not lend itself well to the application of anti slip tape etc. I bought a few feet of the anti slip material used on boats that was 6" wide and cut it all to fit, cleaned it well and still had one heck of a time to get it to lay down right, as it tended to lift in the botom of the valleys, and then dust and dirt would stick to the bottom of the tape and it became one heck of a mess. My new GX335 has a rubber pad, and to be honest except for reducing paint wear its just as slick when have mud or damp shoes anyhow......and I wold prefer plain painted foot rests than dealing with dirt etc up under the pads that can lead to premature corrosion and crud buildup. Heck if you use a tractor paint is gonna get worn in some spots, and as long as its worn paint its not all that bad, but when stuff just flakes off in sheets like my 180 did it was a pain.

 

[guest2]

Chip
How did the rubberized undercoating work out? I would think it would be harder to clean?

 

[steventhomas42]

Originally posted by Greg
How difficult was it to remove the seat/fender deck? I need to do mine too. How much time.

Do you have any pics? Before/after?

I didn't remove the deck from the tractor for this paint job, as it was done more for maintenance than for restoration. The underside is in good shape, I just had rust on the foot pads (a common malady mentioned above by chipmaker) and some light rust under the seat where gasoline has spilled over the years.

I am extremely meticulous, and so I just taped off the trim and the sticker and put garbage bags over the seat, wheels and deck.

I wound up putting three coats of official JD Green and two coats of clear coat on. Of course, this is a good time to point out to people who are considering a paint job that today's JD Green is NOT the same shade of green as it was a few years ago; it is more yellow now than it was originally. :argh:

I think that when I get ready to actually restore my mower(s), I am going to get paint mixed to match the old JD green and use an air sprayer.

To answer your question about removing the seat and fender sheetmetal: I have examined the breakaway drawing from JDParts Online and it appears to be a very simple removal.

 

[Chipmaker]

Originally posted by sixchows
Chip
How did the rubberized undercoating work out? I would think it would be harder to clean?

Can't say how well it worke don my old 180 as I no sooner got it all fixed up and looking good, and only used it once or twice until I sold it as I had already gotten my GX335, so I can;t really say how well it did on the 180........however, I also sprayed the insides / under my fenders on my Ford 1720, as well as up under the floor pan and its not a problem to clean at all. Holds up to a pressure washer if your carefull with nozzle distance and pressure settings, but its still looking good after a few years.


Steven:

Removing the deck is a piece of cake, and is not hard to do at all.Don''t remember right off the topof my head what allwas involved, but it did not take long to do it. IIRC there are 2 or 4 bolts at the rear area, and there are some bolts / studs under the cowling that is under the steering wheel column support, and IIRC you have to remove the knobs on the tran shifter and parking brake lock and deck height adjustment. On the deck height adjust you need to remove the phillips screw that holds the plastic trim piece in place if i recall.

 

[jrfitzg]

Can anyone help me with my jd 180 pto problem .I have a frayed wire right were the two wires connect to the pto .I found this after installing a new switch and the blades still wouldnt fire up any help would be appreciated .