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I have a power up 14 hp flail what rpm should it run at also it dont seem to be cutting right and it ain't throwing the grass at its building up in the drum and stalling out any ideas of what is wrong or how to fix it?
 

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What rpm are you running it at? I would think that you should be running it up around 540 rpm, as may driven implements are. There may be a plate or I.D. sticker on it that will give you the details such as brand name, model and serial numbers and perhaps the operating rpm.
If you go to their website and locate your mower, the specifications call for 540 rpm.
https://www.mdlpowerup.com/product/new-efgcss-side-shift/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All the plates are gone due to grinding on solar tables as we cut the grass round them the PTO drive shaft is rubbing on the flail whilst spinning and wearing down the cover is this normal?
 

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If you shorten your top link it will tip the mower towards the tractor and should stop the pto shaft from rubbing. Can you get a picture from the back showing the actual mower ? Might be able to see why the grass is jamming up.
 

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Thanks pal I'll send pic of it over in morning as not at work at min thanks again I'll try that after I take picture of bk
 

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RPM at PTO should be 540. Set your engine RPM to where it indicates 540 pto on your tach. As others have said, shorten up your top link a little and don’t operate it when the 3 point hitch is lifted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you shorten your top link it will tip the mower towards the tractor and should stop the pto shaft from rubbing. Can you get a picture from the back showing the actual mower ? Might be able to see why the grass is jamming up.
 

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Thanks everyone it seems to be working again now I'm sure I'll be bk on here asking about something else I shortened the top link and messed around with the balance of the flail seemed to work
 

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I was looking at this, and I started to make another post regarding it, but then it occurred to me that this flail looks identical to some other ones I’ve seen. The best I can tell, is that the side shift on it is actually an aftermarket retrofit kit to turn a fixed position mower into a hydraulic side shift mower. As you can see from your mower, there is very little clearance at the input PTO shaft on the mower - this is the result of a poor retrofit kit design. You will also see a set of mounting holes where the OEM three point hitch would have been mounted. On a side shift mower, the gearbox ideally should be affixed to the three point assembly, with a telescopic shaft to the drive pulleys, but this is a fairly quick and simple retrofit kit, which is an $800+ upgrade.

A couple things you could do to improve the situation is, 1) get pto shaft with less plastic bulk around the implement end, 2) take the protective case off the one you have, 3) put larger diameter tires on your tractor to change the PTO shaft angle when the mower is in the lowered position.
 

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Have you tried the second hole for the lift arm pin on your mower? It may give you soe wiggle room to tilt the mower down to clear the driveshaft.
 

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The only problem with tilting the front down more is that this is how you adjust the cut height on this type of mower. So, if he tilts it forward too much, he’ll start scalping the ground, unless he has a roller height adjust too, which I don’t think he has.
 

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Yes, you are probably right. Looks like those pins holes are pretty much parallel and would only bring the mower a couple of inches closer anyways.
A new drive shaft may be the way to go.
 

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I have a JohnDeere 25A flail mower that I have been using. I noticed that the knives are rotating toward the back. So, that means that the faster I go with the tractor, the LESS efficient the knives are cutting. I guess they are running at ?30? miles an hour equivalent and if I drive 10 miles an hour instead of 5 miles an hour, the knives aren't cutting as well.
 

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78CF6283-6184-4673-8EFA-56E21BAC77D4.png
I have a JohnDeere 25A flail mower that I have been using. I noticed that the knives are rotating toward the back. So, that means that the faster I go with the tractor, the LESS efficient the knives are cutting. I guess they are running at ?30? miles an hour equivalent and if I drive 10 miles an hour instead of 5 miles an hour, the knives aren't cutting as well.
According to JD website the knives are cutting at 95mph. Hats off to you if you can mow that fast :)
 
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