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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
3 years ago there about I bought a 54" cut 26 hp Lawn tractor (they said Garden Tractor) and each year something goes wrong.

1st was the bad cut, UN-even and choppy. then I found out that blades get bent. The ground is hilly but does not have any obstacle that would bend the blade or any thing else.
2nd is the mulch or should I say the clumps. I tried mowing on a higher level, and more often and even at a lower speed but walking a push mower is faster.
3rd the tranny is whinning when my foot comes off the brakes and the speed seems to have decreased.
4th and now, the front wheels were sloppy. I remove them and found out they have grease zerks inside of the rims. I no see I no grease, what a dumb A$$ am I for not reading instructions. The rims are $118 each OEM.

So I am thinking on buying a used flail or finish mower to ride on the rear of the 4000 but I have not seen one in action so I am ignorant on that as well.
I think a flail mower is some kind of brush cutter(?) and wouldn't work for my lawn?

I have around 3 acres by the house, an acre around a barn and another 2 acres here and there. So around 6 acres all together.

Any and all suggestions are needed and NONE can be as stuppid as me not greasing zerks, hidden zerks but zerks are zerks and ALL need to be Greased.

Thank you,
OMF
 
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very neat in a yard or any grass situation and will handle hardwood sapplings but will leave residue like a wood chipper...understandable as the technology is very similar. 2 kinds of "teeth" …..older ones had a tooth on the end of a chain and newer ones I've been told the teeth are on the end of short bars and spotta be a better thing.
 

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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any one use a finish mower instead of a lawn tractor or a zero turn?
Any one know how fast a finish mower can be used and still show a manicured lawn?
 

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Banned
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749 Posts
You need a Z-turn for your immediate yard That is clear of obstacles and you want dressed up. For the other acreage consider finding a small brush hog to keep it up. I would suggest 5ft but perhaps all your tractor will handle is a 4ft.
From your description of the property a flail mower is not your best choice.
 

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Rock Grower
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341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the other acreage consider finding a small brush hog to keep it up. I would suggest 5ft but perhaps all your tractor will handle is a 4ft.
My tractor is a Ford 4000, CAT 1-2, around 55hp, and 6 to 7 feet wide. I have a 5 foot Bush Hog for the brush, a bit small but it works. It just wont work for the yard.
The grass is not that long, yet. haha.

I'm leaning towards a Zero turn.
I could pick up a finish mower, used, for a fraction of a Zero would cost, and that would have to be new. Used Zeros seemed to be ran hard for their age and if they are not used for commercial use people keep them.

Any thoughts on a good finish mower?
Any one have one?
 

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Premium Member
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2,675 Posts
I am with Graysonr, a good flail is the way to go if you want to use your tractor. If you want a stand alone mower, go with a commercial zero turn. Zero turn mowers have higher blade speeds than lawn tractors so cut better. But shop carefully, the consumer models are fragile when used in heavy grass or on rough property.
 

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RC,
Correct me if I am wrong as I have never used a flail mower. I remember many years ago I thought that was what I needed but was convinced otherwise. I was told that the blades break off easily if your terrain is any other than golf course level. Can they handle small brush (1")?
 
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bbirder and others, in the early 90's I used a flail extensively. The cutter had something like 48 flails. During the season (April to October) I would do pm at the beginning of the season and after cutting over saplings. I might have lost 3 or so cutters after working over saplings. Usually I would have found some of the missing cutters, but always felt the quality of the work done was worth the cost. You will not notice three missing cutters in your finish work either.
 

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Premium Member
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2,675 Posts
RC,
Correct me if I am wrong as I have never used a flail mower. I remember many years ago I thought that was what I needed but was convinced otherwise. I was told that the blades break off easily if your terrain is any other than golf course level. Can they handle small brush (1")?

Flails have come a long way in the last 20 years. I hammer flail recently cleared land, dirt and branches, tractor ruts, roots, and chunks of stumps. Then can use the same to mow a lawn smooth pasture. I have even hammered a few skunk, possum, and racoon critters out of old brushed up fence rows. Wound up old fencing more than once too. Skunk and fence at the same time is a challenge when cutting the fence out of the works though!

There are two types of flail, a knife blade that is typically two bent knives (or a "T" shaped blade) and lightweight, then the "hammer." I prefer the hammer because it handles dirt, small rocks, branches and brush up to 4 inches in diameter. The knife style is great for lawns, fields, rough pastures, and brush up to around 2 inch diameter, but dirt and gopher mounds tend to break the mounting pins.

Knives are less expensive than hammers, but must be sharpened with a cooled wheel. Hammers can be sharpened with a bench grinder, and typically last for hundreds of hours. The blade mounts on a hammer flail are also much stronger so generally last the life of the flail.

Below is an article from a Chinese forging mill that accurately describes both types. And, all the hammers used in hammer flails come from China, as do most of the knives.

http://www.dropforging.net/flail-hammer-blades-or-knives-blades-for-flail-movers.html
 
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