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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning everyone. Y'all may not remember me, I joined back in December about how I'm getting my late fathers New Holland tractor. For those reading this that didn't read my intro, the long story made short, my Dad passed in Jan of 2020, I decided to take his New Holland tractor. I posted it in Dec of last year if you're interested in reading it. Instead of updating and reviving my intro thread I decided to start a project thread. After looking at the tractor this weekend it's gonna be a little bit of project.

I was finally able to get up to his place this weekend and was able to get some pictures and really look at it. So here's what I learned. It is a New Holland TC33D. I didn't know if it was a T29 or T33.

I could've swore he told me it wasn't 4WD, from the best I can tell it is 4WD, it has a control lever with FWD on it. From the video I've seen about the control layout they all say that is used to engage 4wd. If I'm wrong please let me know. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and don't have the best hearing, so maybe he said his next tractor wouldn't be 4wd. It doesn't have a mid PTO which I'm on that concerned about that.

After looking it over there are somethings it needs. First I gotta get a new battery for it to get it running. Also I'm going to drain the fuel and put fresh fuel in it.

So being a new guy to tractors, I have some questions for you more experienced operators. If yall don't mind answering them.

1. Is draining the tank and adding new fuel good enough or should I drain the entire system? i.e. lines, injectors, filter, etc...

2. I noticed I couldn't depress the clutch or brake pedal. Could that be from it sitting 2+ years? And when I get it started and it pressurized it'll be ok? Or do I have a bigger issue in my hands.

3. It has 1715 hours on it? Is that considered high hours? I don't know the what kind of labor or upkeep the tractor had in those hours. Also I think my dad bought the tractor used and I think it was his project also.

Some things I need to get for it. I need a new front headlight housing assembly for it. You'll see in my next post with the pictures.I need FEL control lever cover, boot and control knob. All new stickers for the control and a really good cleaning.

I apologize for being so long winded. I'll try to figure how to post pictures.
 

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Yes, it's FWA (4wd).

I would drain the tank and refill with fresh fuel. I would also change the fuel filter. I would not attempt to flush the injection system unless you are very, very familiar with such a process.

As BigT mentioned, the pedals are probably frozen due to rust problems. Get them freed up before you attempt to start the engine.

1,700 hrs is not excessive. It should handle 4,000 hrs before anything major fails. But then, that's all a guess since we don't know the level of care it's received as mentioned by BigT.

Don't purchase any comfort items such as the things you mentioned until the tractor is operational. First, and only priority right now should be to get it running. Then as you use it you can start making a list of things that need done.

We don't even know if it will run yet. So the fuel issues and a battery would be all I would buy until I hear it run.

Keep us posted on your progress. Thanks for the pics. Pics tell us a lot!!!!
 

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Looks like some work involved but I would have kept it too. I'd probably start with getting the controls free'd up. A couple cans of PBblaster to start with. I'd open up the air cleaners and make sure there's no nests in there. If it were me I run the fuel in it unless you think its full of water. I know this might not be the way some do it but diesel injection systems can be a real pain to get bled out I think I'd roll the dice and try to start it as it is if it will run on what's in it I'd run most of it out. Then service the fuel filters and do a full filter and fluids change.
 

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1.Check the oil level & see if there is water in it, check the radiator coolant for oil, and the air filter for mice.
2.Spray the clutch linkage and brake connecting rods with oil first and then grease the fittings, then sit on the tractor and try pushing them until they are loose.
3.Check the battery cables and make sure the negative has a good ground and the pos + is tight to the starter and replace the battery.
4. Drain the fuel tank, then loosen the banjo fitting on the injection pump and make sure all the extra fuel runs out.
5.Then pour in the new fuel and change the fuel filter, again open up the banjo fitting so that new fuel flows out into a pan, not on the ground... 😀
6 Then try to start it with the banjo fitting open to clear the lines good, then close the banjo fitting and try to start it, while you pray!
7. Check the hydraulic fluid before you move it.
This is what I would do if it were my tractor.

Oh! did you get a key for it?:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@BigT thank you for the reply. My dad kept it outside where it sits now. Not that it matters much now but before he passed, he kept where it sits mowed down and not grown up like it is now. My brother that has been mowing the yard has done a less than stellar job on the yard. He's kind of hit high parts and left the rest of the yard go. But I agree with you I think I have some work a head of me.

@ovrszd Thank you for the reply. Good point on the fuel filter I will change that as well. You're welcome for the pics. Thank you for addressing the hours. I was actually shocked it had that many hours on it. He bought it used because it said so on the back of the keyring. I agree with you, as interested as I am in implements, I want to make sure it's running and safe before I can start using it. I look forward to keeping y'all posted with updates.

@TractorRookie thank you for your reply and the suggestions of the air filter for nests. I will definitely do that. Also for the suggestion of the PBblaster on the pedals, I will do that next time I'm up there. I didn't get a get chance to check for water in the fuel because we were cleaning his belongings out of his house this past weekend, but that is the first thing I plan on checking on my next trip.

@TractorErnie Those awesome tips. Thank you for the reply. I will definitely try to find that bajo fitting and see what I can do with the fuel. He did put a new Hydro filter on it oct of 2017. I laughed out loud about not putting the gas on the ground. I did get the key for it I thought we had lost it but my middle brother had put it in the door holder in his truck. Also thank you for the advice on keeping my hand on the key when I start. Getting sprayed by Hydro fluid under pressure doesn't sound fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Once I get this tractor greased up and running. Should I do anything with shafts of the rams before actuating them seeing as how they were left extended like that?
 

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My advise is going to be a bit different then some you have received.
I would give her a bath in PB blaster all the hydraulic cylinders all the controls everything that is supposed to move.
Then I would get the main transmission ( the high/lo range box) into neutral and tow her where ever I was going to work on it.
You mentioned you couldn't move the clutch or brake pedal, is it geared or hydrostatic drive. I didn't notice a clutch pedal in the pics.
I would drain the oil looking for water when the drain plug is first removed.
Then I check out the cooling system and be sure it was still full or at least almost full.
Then check the air filters and intake for debri and dirt.
If that all checks good I'd put fresh oil in it and an oil filter.
Check the transmission level and crack the lowest drain plug loose and carefully loosen it till a bit of fluid leaks out
again looking for water if finding water dump it and refill.
Pull the fuel filter out and cut it open and inspect it.
Depending on how the fuel system is it could be gravity feed or it may have a primer pump or even an electric feed pump.
Depending on that drain the bottom out of the tank again looking for water if none it's a guessing game as to draining all the fuel or adding some fresh,
then getting the new filter primed,.
By that time hopefully the pedals have loosened up and will move.
When trying to start it the first time be sure that your fuel shutoff solenoid is functioning.
And you manual shifted transmission(s) are in neutral.
1700 hours is low hours.
 

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The only thing that I would add to what has already been said is two things........

1. Sorry for the way that you got this tractor but usually a "free" tractor is well worth the money.....

2. Once you get the fuel system good to go I would add a bottle of injector cleaner/fuel system to the mix.....Something like SeaFoam or Lucas brand......I personally lean toward SeaFoam...


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@LouNY thank you for your reply. I believe it is a geared tractor. There is a lever to left of the steering wheel and playing with it, appears to have 3 positions on it. Up, neutral, and down. I would assume that would be forward and reverse. I'm going to get in the manual today and verify. I'm making a shopping list filters and lubes to buy for next time I go up there to start getting it right. I don't know the care and feeding it had with it's first owner or with my dad, but I want to maintain it the best I can while I have it.

@unsquidly thank you for your reply. I agree the price I had to pay sucks, and I'd gladly give the tractor back if it meant I got my dad back, but the tractor is free and I am a total rookie with it. I want to keep it in the best working order condition as possible. I'll add seafoam to the shopping list. :)

Thank you again to all who've replied and shared your advice and knowledge with me. I don't feel as lost/blind going into this as I did last week.
 

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Check the rods on your loader's hydraulic cylinders. If there is any rust, spray with PB and sand them with emery cloth.
Hopefully the rodents haven't chewed on any wires, I'd check what I could see of the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Check the rods on your loader's hydraulic cylinders. If there is any rust, spray with PB and sand them with emery cloth.
Hopefully the rodents haven't chewed on any wires, I'd check what I could see of the wires.
Thank you for your reply. The rod end didn't appear to have any rust on them, but when I go back up there I'm gonna look the whole tractor over real good. I thought about the wiring also so I'm gonna look that over as well.
 

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If you are going to tow it out of the woods, I'd block and secure the boom were it is, then loosen the bucket cylinder fittings and using a chain fall or a come-a-long to roll the bucket up off the ground and secure that as well.
Something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you are going to tow it out of the woods, I'd block and secure the boom were it is, then loosen the bucket cylinder fittings and using a chain fall or a come-a-long to roll the bucket up off the ground and secure that as well.
Something to think about.
Thank you for your reply. That's so funny I was just sitting here looking at the pictures of it and thinking about if I decide to tow it from where it sits how I would go about doing. There is a couple of come-a-long in his shop that I could use if I go that route
 

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Thank you for your reply. That's so funny I was just sitting here looking at the pictures of it and thinking about if I decide to tow it from where it sits how I would go about doing. There is a couple of come-a-long in his shop that I could use if I go that route
Just be careful if you do go that route. If you get it running before hand, and the rams aren't all rusted, you could roll the bucket up and drop the boom a little.
 

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Hi Rhino78

I do not know this paticular tractor but one of the things I would check before starting is to make sure that the fuel can be turned off, ie the cut off solenoid is actually working, When you have connected the battery make sure the can hear a 'click' in the injector pump. The solenoid controls the injector pump's control rack; turn the key on and the solenoid moves the control rack so that fuel can get into the pump, turn the key off and the control rack moves and cuts off the fuel. It is unlikely that the valve is faulty as it is inside the injector pump but if it is stuck in one position there may be no way to start or turn off the engine. In my Kioti tractor it is called the Engine Stop valve solenoid and is on the back of the injector pump. The other advice you have received sounds good. Good luck with your project.
 
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