[I use red mn]

I do not have a lot of direct experience with that tractor model or engine. But from another forum I am on for older tractors like this usually an engine has cracks and leaks from freeze damage. This generally pushes out the side of the engine where there is more surface area for the pressure to push against.

 

[Jcrider]

So I have a “chance” of it being a freeze plug. I think I would see a bulge or crack, at least on the sides if it were the block. Remember….. I know very little. All the engine work, electrical and appliance work I’ve done over the years I figured out from the internet and generous people like you and Fred.

 

[Jcrider]

It's me again! The neighbor had mentioned maybe the head gasket was bad and causing the leak. wouldn't i visually be able to see a leak around a head gasket? is it a possibility?

 

[I use red mn]

Likely if it “pours out” at the seam at the clutch housing as you say, it is coming out of a leak in the expansion plug in the back of the engine. The head gasket area on the head that would leak on the back is above the “seams” you talk about. So a head gasket leak would run down on the outside where you could actually see where the leak is coming from.

 

[oletrapper]

Good morning Judy, I have read this entire thread and must say that I admire your tenacity in doing your own repairs. I certainly hope that if you have to split the little guy, you have it inside and on concrete and level. A tractor split is a very difficult task even with the right conditions as mentioned above. You will NEED help in doing it also. A small word of advice. DO NOT use radiator stop leak. It may stop your leak temporarily but will no doubt cause other problems. The veins in your radiator will no doubt be corroded internally and narrow. The stop leak will collect there and cause water flow problems resulting in you having to replace the radiator. The clutch diameter can be measured once the split is done. A simple measure across the diameter of the clutch or pressure plate can determine that. You should also measure the diameter of the crankshaft and count the number of splines. I suggest that for the reason that there may have been a production change. Your serial number should be on a plate on left side of the clutch housing. More information can be found here.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/6/5/4657-farmall-140.html

Good luck and best wishes for successful repair. OT

 

[Old Barney]

Your leaking freeze plug/expansion plug more than likely rusted. Many people used water only for coolant which helps rusting. When you replace the plug use antifreeze mix which will help to prevent rusting. BUT a brass plug will not rust. They are used in marine engines because the salt water would cause rapid rusting of a steel plug.
I never buy premixed antifreeze because I don't want to pay for water. I always buy concentrated and add my own free water as per the chart on the container.

 

[Jcrider]

Likely if it “pours out” at the seam at the clutch housing as you say, it is coming out of a leak in the expansion plug in the back of the engine. The head gasket area on the head that would leak on the back is above the “seams” you talk about. So a head gasket leak would run down on the outside where you could actually see where the leak is coming from.

That’s what I thought. Thanks!

Your leaking freeze plug/expansion plug more than likely rusted. Many people used water only for coolant which helps rusting. When you replace the plug use antifreeze mix which will help to prevent rusting. BUT a brass plug will not rust. They are used in marine engines because the salt water would cause rapid rusting of a steel plug.
I never buy premixed antifreeze because I don't want to pay for water. I always buy concentrated and add my own free water as per the chart on the container.

Thanks Barney. Actually I finally found the right size plugs and I kept searching until I found brass ones. Didn’t know why but though it was important.

 

[Jcrider]

Good morning Judy, I have read this entire thread and must say that I admire your tenacity in doing your own repairs. I certainly hope that if you have to split the little guy, you have it inside and on concrete and level. A tractor split is a very difficult task even with the right conditions as mentioned above. You will NEED help in doing it also. A small word of advice. DO NOT use radiator stop leak. It may stop your leak temporarily but will no doubt cause other problems. The veins in your radiator will no doubt be corroded internally and narrow. The stop leak will collect there and cause water flow problems resulting in you having to replace the radiator. The clutch diameter can be measured once the split is done. A simple measure across the diameter of the clutch or pressure plate can determine that. You should also measure the diameter of the crankshaft and count the number of splines. I suggest that for the reason that there may have been a production change. Your serial number should be on a plate on left side of the clutch housing. More information can be found here.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/6/5/4657-farmall-140.html

Good luck and best wishes for successful repair. OT

 

[Jcrider]

Hi Trapper, thank you for your info. Funny my brain kept going back to needing a cement floor to do it on which we don’t have. I believe I could do the job with my husband to loosen tough bolts but the fact that we don’t have a garage with a cement floor told me that the job could not be done here. Although I did think about 3/4” plywood on our pebble drive way with a large tarp to cover. I do understand the importance of a very stable floor. I’m going to go check out the link you sent me. Judy

 

[Old Barney]

Also it was a practice when I was working in a shop to use Permatex gasket sealer after cleaning the hole left after the old plug pieces were cleaned out. We would coat the hole and the plug using a wood block between the hammer and the plug while tapping the new plug in place squarely. Getting all of the old plug removed was the hardest part of the job. U Tube video's help a lot (some times)
Old Barney

 

[I use red mn]

If you are going to use straight antifreeze that requires water I suggest using distilled water to minimize the amount of minerals you introduce into the cooling system. The split of this small tractor can be performed on 3/4” plywood. Wedge some tapered boards between the front axle and side frame to keep it from tipping. Then block up the front part under the engine with some cribbing. Then a floor jack can be place under the back half at the front of the bell housing which will allow the back half to be rolled back. A person pushing back on the top of each rear tire will push it apart fairly easily if it is not stuck to bad.

 

[Jcrider]

Also it was a practice when I was working in a shop to use Permatex gasket sealer after cleaning the hole left after the old plug pieces were cleaned out. We would coat the hole and the plug using a wood block between the hammer and the plug while tapping the new plug in place squarely. Getting all of the old plug removed was the hardest part of the job. U Tube video's help a lot (some times)
Old Barney

 

[Jcrider]

Is Permatex gasket sealer the same as ARP as pic above? Just wondering I believe I have both.

 

[Jcrider]

If you are going to use straight antifreeze that requires water I suggest using distilled water to minimize the amount of minerals you introduce into the cooling system. The split of this small tractor can be performed on 3/4” plywood. Wedge some tapered boards between the front axle and side frame to keep it from tipping. Then block up the front part under the engine with some cribbing. Then a floor jack can be place under the back half at the front of the bell housing which will allow the back half to be rolled back. A person pushing back on the top of each rear tire will push it apart fairly easily if it is not stuck to bad.

Thanks!
[/QUOTE]

 

[Jcrider]

To everyone who has been so kind as to send me great info I just want you to know I’ve never joined a forum before so I’m not familiar on exactly how to use this. If weird things pop up, I apologize. Like I see my pic saying registered a few times. I don’t know what I did! 😬

 

[I use red mn]

Honestly I do not think the type of sealer matters just so you use some type of automotive engine sealer. That repeated picture is in what l think may be call your “profile line” that what is telling everyone else that you are the one writing the reply “or additional comment” to the subject. You chose to ad a picture to your profile when you registered so it shows that. I did not so it just shows an R, never thought of why, it does happen to be the first letter of my personal.

 

[Always something]

Try not to post for fear of saying something stupid .But I think the larger plug pictured is a cam plug .The plugs pictured are cup type and should be available at a auto parts store .NAPA should be able to match them up .If your 140 has a wide front end you can split it using this method .I used what I had on hand most people will not have what I had .If you under stand cribbing you can make it work with Angle iron and 4x4s they would need to be four feet long .This tractor was a 584 international clutch job on the dirt on unlevel ground The one inch and three quarter plate was 8 inches wide 4 feet long. I Used another tractor to pull it apart and come alongs to pull it back together . If the tractor is a row crop ,You can use a engine host to support the engine,balance is a must in that case.A good wide 2x12 and a floor jack to roll the rear half away from the front section.I have made so many repairs using 6x6 post tembers and 4x4 cribbing blocks .Other ways to get it done just come natural to me.A clutch alignment tool is also a must.You will need to pull the flywheel to get to the freeze plug that is leaking .

 

[560Dennis]

I split tractors using the 1,2,3 principle of support , that 3 or more points on ground base. 2 points left and right an and one point up and down, here is a super c split . You will need to split yours in a similar fashion safely and securely to replace both soft plugs . You will need to remove clutch and flywheel .
also while you change the soft plugs do a good job ,inspecting of clutch flywheel ,and flywheel ring gear. I suggest this because your in there , do all you can to avoiding additional expenses to repair the obvious issues ,it a 65 year old tractor and the wear is there , guessing it ok will cost you more ,good luck

 

[HydroTek]

@560Dennis Super A ?

Several ways to split a small tractor
Use what you have that is available , and safe

You will need something to line up the clutch disk when the tractor is ready to go back together
There are tools for this, but you can also just "eyeball" it -- the disk has to be centered when looking at the splines and pilot bearing, and that is all that is needed
again use what is available to you

 

[Busted Tractor]

When you put it back together get some long bolts (5 inch or longer) that thread into the bell housing. They will help you keep both halves lined up as it goes together.