[Jcrider]

Farmall 140. When we add water to the radiator it runs right through and leaks out at 2 seams which are located on the clutch housing right behind the oil pan. You do not need to start the tractor just pour water into the radiator and it runs right out those 2 seams. The oil to the engine looks clean (not cloudy from water) but the clutch feels different and it is not shifting right. (maybe caused by the same problem or it may be a separate problem) I have to start somewhere so I can get the parts I need to fix it. I am a girl but I actually by myself switched it over from a 6 volt to a 12 volt so I think I can do this if I get the knowledge I need. Someone please reply, thank you! Judy Cook
How the heck does radiator water run through the engine and run out of the bottom of the clutch housing?? I have checked for leaks everywhere and see nothing but at the clutch housing.

 

[FredM]

G'day Jcrider, welcome to the forum, without being familiar with your tractor, your problem is most likely a freeze plug has corroded/failed, there are possibly two behind the bell housing and to repair will necessitate splitting the tractor, and at worst, the engine block may have a crack in it, I say may!!.

 

[Jcrider]

Dear Fred, thankyou for your information. Everything I learn will help me to figure this out. Can you separate a tractor without having the $400 tool designed for that? Can you use jacks and bricks?

 

[FredM]

You can use jacks, in your case a car trolley jack with wheels would be the better option, you need hard standing for the setup or a sheet of thick ply or even 2 lengths of flat timber for the jack to run on, safer to use timber dunnage to build a pigsty under the rear of the engine instead of bricks, you will also need a couple of timber wedges that are jammed between the front axle pivot and engine frame either side to prevent the engine assembly from rolling over sideways when you pull the rear end away from the engine housing, and chocks front and rear under the front wheels, there will possibly be 2 locating dowels one each side of the bell housing mount on the tractor, you may have a little trouble getting the tractor to come apart because of the dowels, a flat blade screw driver will help by levering in the right spots at the join, you will need at least 2 people to remove the rear end, one on each rear wheel plus one of the two to steer the trolley jack, make sure everything is level before splitting otherwise you will have trouble lining up on assembly.

Think safety, when you have the tractor split, there will be 2 halves unsecured that can fall anywhere at anytime.

I hope for your sake that you wont have to remove the clutch and flywheel, that will be another learning curve for you, you may be lucky enough for the freeze plug/s to be above the flywheel.

I am hoping that someone with previous experience with your model tractor will enlighten us on whether the 140 has freeze plugs in that area, rest assured, most engines that I have worked on do have these openings there.

 

[Jcrider]

Once again great and thorough information. Sure hope someone comes on and can answer the FREEZE PLUG question. How many and exact location. 😊

 

[FredM]

Found this, 2nd last photo near bottom, and as I thought.

Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Jcrider]

Found this, 2nd last photo near bottom, and as I thought.

Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Found this, 2nd last photo near bottom, and as I thought.

Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Found this, 2nd last photo near bottom, and as I thought.

Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Fred
I only see two plug type things in pic #1 and then in pic #4 I see one plug type thing.
I see nothing in the 2nd last photo. Judy

 

[FredM]

Judy those are the freeze plugs and they look to be different sizes.

 

[Jcrider]

Found this, 2nd last photo near bottom, and as I thought.

Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Farmall 140 240 C123 Engine Block 367825R1, 66241 Casting # w/ Matching Caps at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

View attachment 85197

Judy those are the freeze plugs and they look to be different sizes.

Fred, thank you once again. Yes, that would require a tractor split. Can those plugs be changed or repaired?

 

[Jcrider]

Farmall 140 - It requires 2 freeze plugs. Info I found says one is 2" and the other is 1 5/8". Is this correct? I've searched the internet for 2 hours and can't seem to find the right ones. steiners and yesterdays tractors don't seem to even carry them. Any suggestions?

 

[FredM]

Personally I would wait until the tractor is split and measure the inside diameter and go from there, not unless you can find a parts breakdown for your tractor.

Have you googled both sizes of freeze plug, they look to be the common concave disc type and not the cup style?.

You must be able to get parts for these older IH tractors because I have seen quite a few posts about the older IH tractors on tractor forum.

Googling, I found this site in the States, freeze plugs will be a common item not married to the tractor company, if you have a parts book and this states 2" and 1 and 5/8ths" sizes, then you will be able to find these even on ebay.

https://www.hubbardspring.com/product/expansion-plugs-brass/

Being your first tractor split, it is most common to replace the rear crankshaft seal, the transmission input shaft seal, the clutch throw out bearing, inspect the clutch plate, the pressure plate and the flywheel face for wear, if required, I know, something to think about, but that is how it goes, not unless you are happy to do another split sometime in the future.

If the leak is not to bad, then you may get away with radiator sealant, this may take up the leak in the plug, but then you have to be wary of the fix letting go at some time and you may end up cooking the engine, just letting you know the pitfall, something else to think about and make the decision on.

 

[Jcrider]

Dear Fred, I am so glad I read your last text. I had just spent all day finding the 2" and 1 5/8" freeze plugs and ordered them but they were the "cup" type and not the concaved. Luckily it was from Amazon and I was able to quickly go back and cancel those. I find many freeze plugs but the sizes I need are harder to find. I saw a comment in another Farmall forum and a guy had told the sizes. that's where i got that info. Judy

 

[Jcrider]

Hi Fred, I found the right sizes at an Internet site called Goodson. They are concave and brass.

 

[FredM]

When you do the split and if the rear of the cylinder head is exposed, there will be most likely another there, it may pay to tap this with a screw driver in 3 or 4 different spots, and listen to the taps, you should be able to pick up if the plug is good by the sound, solid sound is good, flat tinny sound is bad, this should indicate if this one is failing also and with the tractor split, good time to do it.

 

[Jcrider]

are you saying that there could be a 3rd freeze plug? Luckily I order 2 of each size because they weren't that expensive. The shipping however was $30. I don't know but would hope if there is a 3rd freeze plug it would either be a 2" or a 1 5/8".
I think i found all the parts you mentioned to replace if tractor gets split. The one thing that doesn't come up is the "transmission input shaft seal." Could there be a different name for it?
You have been most helpful and have taught me more through this forum than anywhere else I've tried to gain knowledge. I actually purchased $70 in Farmall 140 tractor booklets and they taught me nothing. In the parts thick booklet they didn't even have a thermostat and gasket listed (which is one thing I am replacing) Most radiator hoses are good except for one which I have also ordered. Do you know if the clutch is a 9" or a 10". Steiners says after 1958 they may have gone from 9" to 10". I really don't know the year of my old beat up tractor. I've replaced many parts through the years.

 

[FredM]

I mentioned a freeze plug on the back of the "cylinder head" and with the tractor split, to check it because the head should be easy to get to with the fuel tank removed if that is required, I don't know what size that one would be and you may not need to replace, I suggested checking while the tractor is split.

I cannot help you with clutch disc size, I suggested you check those items for wear, this is something that is done when you do a split, oil seals I would replace, --- your clutch disc, clutch pressure plate and flywheel may be ok, the throwout bearing, spin with your fingers and listen, if the bearing is firm it wont spin much, if worn, it will make a dry noisy sound (not as in very loud noisy), you could try "transmission input shaft oil seal", if you live in an area that has a big township nearby, then look for a bearing and seal supply shop, or a business that carries these parts as well as other machinery type stock, all you need to do then is remove the input shaft seal and take this into the shop, they will measure this and supply you with a new seal, if they don't have one in stock, then they should order one in for you, if you live out of town aways, then you could ask for the part to be posted out.

That is rich, $30 for freight for 4 freeze plugs, they should be able to put them in a plastic mail bag, the going cost here would be about $10 and I consider that exy, just getting out of hand.

farmall 140 tractor parts suppliers in the States - Google Search

See how many of these sites you can open, chasing parts will require the tractor serial number and possibly the build date if you have this.

Righto!!, I think I should stop so you can digest all what is written, I will follow your posts as you go along, so do keep writing updates in this thread.

 

[Jcrider]

Thank you Fred! 😊

 

[I use red mn]

The smaller plug on the right in the picture of the block will not leak water. It is there because the camshaft that operates the valves is installed behind it. The opening is for the boring machine that drilled out and finished the bores in the block casting the bearings for the camshaft set in. It is removed to replace the bearings that the camshaft turns on. Since the bearings have oil pumped to them the plug is only holding oil from leaking. Oil is excellent at preventing rust and it is holding oil not coolant. So basically that plug really does not need replaced. The other larger plug is on the back side of the water jacket that holds the coolant around the cylinders. So water or coolant is way more prone to cause rust and or corroded the expansion plug. So this is what happened to cause the leak.

 

[Jcrider]

"R" thanks for the info. I will be printing this entire post to have all info on hand.

 

[Jcrider]

Let me ask this: when we pour water into the radiator it immediately flows out the two bottom seams on the clutch housing. Could this possible be the freeze plug or does it sound more like a cracked block? eek! Hoping for freeze plug!