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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on swapping a 23HP Briggs Intek V-Twin onto a Hustler Raptor. Briggs is replacing a Kawasaki FR691V (ventilated crankcase). Kawasaki ran separate choke and throttle cables. Briggs runs Choke-o-Matic (one cable). I hate that damn Briggs Choke-o-Matic set up. What genius engineer thought it was a good idea for a 23HP, V-Twin, pressure lubricated engine to have to be positioned at wide open throttle before you can crank with the choke applied?:mad:

I’ve figured out a way to eliminate the single cable Choke-o-Matic set up and use the separate choke and throttle cables, so I thought I would share. The trick is already on the intake manifold. There are two plastic molded ears that stick down off the bottom of the intake manifold to mount a separate choke linkage. That separate choke linkage is Briggs # 691021 and is less than $10. Once that little choke plate is mounted it looks like this (the photo is upside down to the way it actually mounts on the engine)….



The extra hole at the end of the plate is to mount the “cable clip” to hold the separate choke cable shroud. You can then run the throttle cable to the normal cam-style linkage on the Briggs speed control plate. You can run the throttle cable to either the left, or right side of the block, it’s just a matter of selecting the hole on the cam plate. Separate choke and throttle cables and not forced to start at wide open throttle to get choke;).

There you go Briggs…. Take that Choke-o-Matic set up and shove it. Poor management is not the only thing that led to your Chapter 11. When you go to re-org, get rid of that desk the Bright Idea Fairy has set up in your Engineering Department and you might sell more engines :).
 

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Interesting. My ZTR is the 1st Briggs engine I've experienced with the Choke-O-Matic. If I stop while mowing to pick up a branch and forget to set the parking brake it dies as soon as I leave the seat. No issue there. But to restart a hot engine I have to go full throttle/choke? Just doesn't make sense. But it simplifies engine starting for those who don't know engines, to a consistent simple process.
 

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Thank you for the photograph. I ordered the part.
Will I have to modify or create a link arm for this part?

there is a you tube video that shows this modification. Not the best detail, but gives a general idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I think I recall you use the existing choke-a-matic linkage rod. Seems as though they pretty much fit right up...... Choke butterfly z-bend end works/clears fine, you may have to tweek it a bit on the L-lever end.
 

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Bend the linkage shaft so that it will not fall out of the 691021 bracket. I bent it like in the attached photograph. You can choose the best way that works for you.

In my opinion, the link shaft is a bit short as I will show in later posts. I am thinking of using some wire and fabricating one about 1/2 inch longer
 

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I had to set the choke cable as shown in the photograph, otherwise the choke would not close all the way.

for this setting, I can fully choke it when it is at idle, and the engine does not show any indication of running rich.

Once I accelerate a bit , up to full throttle, it floods out and will quit running unless I unchoke it.

my engine may have a slight intake leak, and this may be causing it.

but for me, the stroke of the choke assembly does not allow for the choke to fully open AND close.
Again, I think I will fabricate a longer linkage rod.
 

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