[HydroTek]

Could just push the clutch and then everything rear of the engine is stopped -- engine should turn freely then

 

[unsquidly]

Could just push the clutch and then everything rear of the engine is stopped -- engine should turn freely then

I have never seen a Kioti tractor with HST drive that has a clutch......

 

[FredM]

I have never seen a Kioti tractor with HST drive that has a clutch......

Neither have I unsquidly, just covering bases, but do have a look at the diagram I have attached, that covers Kioti CK 25 and up to 35 with different prefex letters.

On the left in the drawing sure looks like a clutch assembly.

 

[John Liebermann]

Very confusing also in that th HST control lvr also disconnects th drive train. I guess we can learn. I have a feeling however, this machine is not hydrostatic.

 

[HydroTek]

Very confusing also in that th HST control lvr also disconnects th drive train. I guess we can learn. I have a feeling however, this machine is not hydrostatic.

What ? ...
HST is the abbreviation Hydro-Static Transmission
Either this tractor is HST or Gear Drive
Pictures of the shift controls would clear this up

And yeah, ...not uncommon for a HST tractor to have a clutch
that is how the PTO is operated in many small tractors
Larger tractors will use a hydraulic clutch pack to control the PTO

HST is only for the forward and reverse movement of the machine
The HST control does not control the "gears" of the transmission --only the speed of the transmission input
HST drive Neutral is not the same as geartrain Neutral

 

[ck3510hb]

Yep, ck 3510 HST has a clutch, or at least mine does

 

[HydroTek]

Yep, ck 3510 HST has a clutch, or at least mine does

Yessir, ...kinda need the clutch to operate the PTO

 

[BrkMstr]

FYI: CK2610HST, CK3510HST, CK4010HST All have a clutch, CK2610HSTSE, CK3510HSTSE, CK4010HSTSE, Do not have a clutch

 

[John Liebermann]

Just watched a short Youtube on CK2610HST and what it looks like is that what I thought was being presented as a Hydro control is really just a range selector including neutral. The hydrostatic trans is pedal operated.

Well,, that clears that up for me, so towing the tractor with the range selector in N would have no effect on trans. (Edit: at least for short distance negating a lube prob)

So, now back to original prob why wont engine start.

 

[daltongary1944]

Just watched a short Youtube on CK2610HST and what it looks like is that what I thought was being presented as a Hydro control is really just a range selector including neutral. The hydrostatic trans is pedal operated.

Well,, that clears that up for me, so towing the tractor with the range selector in N would have no effect on trans. (Edit: at least for short distance negating a lube prob)

So, now back to original prob why wont engine start.

Just watched a short Youtube on CK2610HST and what it looks like is that what I thought was being presented as a Hydro control is really just a range selector including neutral. The hydrostatic trans is pedal operated.

Well,, that clears that up for me, so towing the tractor with the range selector in N would have no effect on trans. (Edit: at least for short distance negating a lube prob)

So, now back to original prob why wont engine start.

not sure what all your mechanic friend tried? I would make sure power to glow plugs was unhooked and see if it would start on starting fluid, if it starts and runs you probably have a fuel issue.

 

[DavJ82]

I have looked at the transmission drawing for I hope to be your model and my assumption is that the short distance shouldn't have damaged any of the transmission components, the only parts rotating were the final drives, the crown and pinion that also carries the low, intermediate and high speed slider range gears and seeing that the tractor was in neutral whilst being towed, the parts would have been sitting in oil and would have self lubricated, the HST is independent of the transmission drive until a range slider gear is engaged with the cluster gear, and then the whole shebang rotates.

It has only come to notice that the rear wheel dragged whilst being loaded on a trailer after the tractor sat for 12 months, I feel that the brakes have locked up to cause this.

And the heavy turning of the motor, I wonder if the tractor was out in the weather and ingested some water into the cylinders to cause hydraulic lock.

DavJ82-- I would consider thinking about removing the starter motor and using a large flat blade screw driver or tyre lever and try turning the engine in direction of rotation checking to see if there is a resistance, also did you push the clutch pedal in when trying to start, this would relieve transmission drag.

Another suggestion would be to pull the injectors and spin the engine to blow out any fluid before you get into the transmission, only if the tractor was out in the weather.

Thank you for the information I am going to be working on it soon and will differently try your idea about turning the motor over and removing the injectors. How easily should the motor turn over I mean like easy like a gas motor with the plugs out or harder than that?

Thanks,

 

[FredM]

Thank you for the information I am going to be working on it soon and will differently try your idea about turning the motor over and removing the injectors. How easily should the motor turn over I mean like easy like a gas motor with the plugs out or harder than that?

Thanks,

Should be no different to a gas engine with the injectors removed, -- should there be any liquid in the cylinders, then if the engine is spun with the starter, the liquid should blow out of the injector ports, most of it anyway, and from a safety point of view, don't have your face over these ports, the liquid will eject force-ably, enough to damage the eyes, -- don't forget to depress the clutch pedal, doing this will take the HST load off of the starter, and hopefully, the clutch is not stuck from sitting also.

As mentioned previously, you need to get your engine up and running before you can fault anything in the transmission area, which at worst will be brakes locked, you have to take into account your tractor was working up until it run out of fuel,(keep that in mind) and then it sat for 12 months, it will be interesting to see what you come up with eventually.

Do you have a workshop manual for your tractor?, I found one on T.F. and you are welcome to it.

 

[DavJ82]

not sure what all your mechanic friend tried? I would make sure power to glow plugs was unhooked and see if it would start on starting fluid, if it starts and runs you probably have a fuel issue.

After talking to him again he really didn't do much because when he told his other mecicany buddy about the wheels being locked up he told him the trans was toast so he gave up. I am going to

Should be no different to a gas engine with the injectors removed, -- should there be any liquid in the cylinders, then if the engine is spun with the starter, the liquid should blow out of the injector ports, most of it anyway, and from a safety point of view, don't have your face over these ports, the liquid will eject force-ably, enough to damage the eyes, -- don't forget to depress the clutch pedal, doing this will take the HST load off of the starter, and hopefully, the clutch is not stuck from sitting also.

As mentioned previously, you need to get your engine up and running before you can fault anything in the transmission area, which at worst will be brakes locked, you have to take into account your tractor was working up until it run out of fuel,(keep that in mind) and then it sat for 12 months, it will be interesting to see what you come up with eventually.

Do you have a workshop manual for your tractor?, I found one on T.F. and you are welcome to it.

I do not have a manual I was going to look for one, I am not familiar with T.F. If you don't need it I would surely appreciate it.
I agree I want to see if I can get it running first. I was not 100% it ran out of fuel, it was very low but that day I was in a big hurry and couldn't mess with it. It was running and then just quit so we assumed it was out, but now after all the great info everyone is giving me I am thinking the fuel pump might be the first issue, My buddy did say that he thought the injectors were not spraying very hard when he was bleeding them so now I am thinking that I might have that rail stuck in a low/off spot. I just have to find the time and good weather to work on it.
To do list in order:
1. check and make sure it's in neutral, lol!
2. remove starter and injectors to see if the motor will turn over
3. if it turns over I will pull the pump to see if It is locked up (broken gear teeth)
Go from there.

Thanks,

 

[DavJ82]

Just watched a short Youtube on CK2610HST and what it looks like is that what I thought was being presented as a Hydro control is really just a range selector including neutral. The hydrostatic trans is pedal operated.

Well,, that clears that up for me, so towing the tractor with the range selector in N would have no effect on trans. (Edit: at least for short distance negating a lube prob)

So, now back to original prob why wont engine start.

Well I guess the first thing I need to do I determine what trans I have... after all the info I am second guessing what I have.

 

[FredM]

After talking to him again he really didn't do much because when he told his other mecicany buddy about the wheels being locked up he told him the trans was toast so he gave up. I am going to


I do not have a manual I was going to look for one, I am not familiar with T.F. If you don't need it I would surely appreciate it.
I agree I want to see if I can get it running first. I was not 100% it ran out of fuel, it was very low but that day I was in a big hurry and couldn't mess with it. It was running and then just quit so we assumed it was out, but now after all the great info everyone is giving me I am thinking the fuel pump might be the first issue, My buddy did say that he thought the injectors were not spraying very hard when he was bleeding them so now I am thinking that I might have that rail stuck in a low/off spot. I just have to find the time and good weather to work on it.
To do list in order:
1. check and make sure it's in neutral, lol!
2. remove starter and injectors to see if the motor will turn over
3. if it turns over I will pull the pump to see if It is locked up (broken gear teeth)
Go from there.

Thanks,

 

[FredM]

After talking to him again he really didn't do much because when he told his other mecicany buddy about the wheels being locked up he told him the trans was toast so he gave up. I am going to


I do not have a manual I was going to look for one, I am not familiar with T.F. If you don't need it I would surely appreciate it.
I agree I want to see if I can get it running first. I was not 100% it ran out of fuel, it was very low but that day I was in a big hurry and couldn't mess with it. It was running and then just quit so we assumed it was out, but now after all the great info everyone is giving me I am thinking the fuel pump might be the first issue, My buddy did say that he thought the injectors were not spraying very hard when he was bleeding them so now I am thinking that I might have that rail stuck in a low/off spot. I just have to find the time and good weather to work on it.
To do list in order:
1. check and make sure it's in neutral, lol!
2. remove starter and injectors to see if the motor will turn over
3. if it turns over I will pull the pump to see if It is locked up (broken gear teeth)
Go from there.

Thanks,

If you have a desktop or laptop computer, then double click on the attachment and this will open in a new browser page on your desktop or laptop, you will need to open the "file command" top left and click on "save as", this should open a window and type in "Desktop" in the command line and click save.

See how you go.

 

[HydroTek]

Loving the safety cartoons, they remind me of the same type found in the older Case or IH manuals -- A picture is worth a thousand words

 

[theduke]

If it has glow plugs.....they are probly easier to remove than injectors......just a thought.

 

[FredM]

If it has glow plugs.....they are probly easier to remove than injectors......just a thought.

That is a better suggestion!!.

 

[DavJ82]

Ok I have to apologize I did not know what transmission I had but I now know I have a manual gear not an HST so from what I have been told it is not possible to damage the trans by towing in "N" so I will move forward with getting it running first then figure out why the wheels are locked up.