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If I understand this, the old switch is made of parts 76, 87-95 and 97 in the diagram in post #12?
Is part 02940894 a complete unit?

The universal switch with inbuilt relay I linked to earlier is this:
and the price is about the same as for part 02940894.

I can not find any good US source for this type of equipment, but I show what I found. This is one of good quality (two types, does the same):
It can be combined with a plug to arrange the connectors neatly:

This seller is in Latvia, but US shipping is not that terrible:

Then you need a flasher relay for the hazard function. The relay has to deal with all indicator lamps at the same time. If you plan to have indicator lights on an implement or trailer behind the tractor, you need to add these to the tractor lights to get the proper power value for the relay.

Did you find the indicator flasher relay?
The wire marked "49" should be connected to this relay (49+ in diagram). If you, just for testing, connect its free end to the free end of wire 30, the indicators should work. If nothing happens, connect a jumper wire from battery (+) to the free end of wire 49, and try again. Remove the jumper wire after the test.

That was just food for thoughts, try the relay and search for parts. When you have a decision, we go from there to details.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have on order the universal flasher switch as suggested by squiggly. It should arrive the first of Dec. Once I have it in my hands I can the best way to connect to my tractor based on the blade configuration. I will be communicating with the group for technical assistance. I am way over my head already. :)
 

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You have got the switch sorted, but since I found a US seller with nice prices, I thought I might as well share it if someone else is interested:
They have cut off the first part of the part numbers, therefore hard to find.
 

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I have on order the universal flasher switch as suggested by squiggly. It should arrive the first of Dec. Once I have it in my hands I can the best way to connect to my tractor based on the blade configuration. I will be communicating with the group for technical assistance. I am way over my head already. :)
*** Edit
New version of diagram
***

I think this will work:
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I think this will work:
I really appreciate the drawing this helps it make since to me, now I am shopping for the 2 prong relay and looking forward to the arrival of the switch from across the waters. Please stay tuned, I will probably need assistance once I begin the installation. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sorry for the duplication of pictures
If I understand this, the old switch is made of parts 76, 87-95 and 97 in the diagram in post #12?
Is part 02940894 a complete unit?

The universal switch with inbuilt relay I linked to earlier is this:
and the price is about the same as for part 02940894.

I can not find any good US source for this type of equipment, but I show what I found. This is one of good quality (two types, does the same):
It can be combined with a plug to arrange the connectors neatly:

This seller is in Latvia, but US shipping is not that terrible:
[/URL][/URL][/URL]
[/URL][/URL][/URL]
[/URL][/URL][/URL]

Then you need a flasher relay for the hazard function. The relay has to deal with all indicator lamps at the same time. If you plan to have indicator lights on an implement or trailer behind the tractor, you need to add these to the tractor lights to get the proper power value for the relay.

Did you find the indicator flasher relay?
The wire marked "49" should be connected to this relay (49+ in diagram). If you, just for testing, connect its free end to the free end of wire 30, the indicators should work. If nothing happens, connect a jumper wire from battery (+) to the free end of wire 49, and try again. Remove the jumper wire after the test.

That was just food for thoughts, try the relay and search for parts. When you have a decision, we go from there to details.
I think this will work:
 

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There is a locking tab on each connector:
You pull the connector forward, out of its space, press down the tab and pull the wire backwards to get it out.

The wires and connectors have had a hard time, the plastic has melted in places and the insulation is damaged. The wires are bare at the connectors and are damaged, I would renew the wiring.

Anyhow, never mind the old connectors, just cut the wires. Have the battery disconnected when you work on any electric equipment, and put insulating tape on wire ends that will be left disconnected.

It seems like the wires have been bent. If there is not room enough for the connectors on the new switch, consider angled connectors:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
There is a locking tab on each connector:
You pull the connector forward, out of its space, press down the tab and pull the wire backwards to get it out.

The wires and connectors have had a hard time, the plastic has melted in places and the insulation is damaged. The wires are bare at the connectors and are damaged, I would renew the wiring.

Anyhow, never mind the old connectors, just cut the wires. Have the battery disconnected when you work on any electric equipment, and put insulating tape on wire ends that will be left disconnected.

It seems like the wires have been bent. If there is not room enough for the connectors on the new switch, consider angled connectors:
Thanks
 

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Great! It is a Durite. I was afraid they sent you a copy.

I would by a step drill, that way you have a tool that can be used for other tasks in the future.

The switch has an internal switched light that flashes when the switch is on, so you only need two prongs. I am not sure what the pin designations are in your country. The diagram has numbers according to a German DIN standard. The relay does not need to have 49 and 49a on it, it will probably have US style pin designations.

Just make sure you get a relay that can handle the load (add the power for all possible indicator bulbs).
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Great! It is a Durite. I was afraid they sent you a copy.

I would by a step drill, that way you have a tool that can be used for other tasks in the future.

The switch has an internal switched light that flashes when the switch is on, so you only need two prongs. I am not sure what the pin designations are in your country. The diagram has numbers according to a German DIN standard. The relay does not need to have 49 and 49a on it, it will probably have US style pin designations.

Just make sure you get a relay that can handle the load (add the power for all possible indicator bulbs).
Will the wiring diagram you provided still work?
I updated the diagram with the Durite pin designations:
Thank you so much, the next nice day here in Tennessee i will get this wired in. Please stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Will the wiring diagram you provided still work?

Thank you so much, the next nice day here in Tennessee i will get this wired in. Please stay tuned.
Just ran the wires today however something is not right. I push the flasher in and nothing happens but if i press and hold the switch button the indicator light on the switch lights up, nothing else. Could the switch top need to be screwed down tightly to ground? I'm lost.......
 

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The switch is like a ballpoint pen: One push, and it locks in down position (flasher ON). Next push, the lock releases and the button goes back to OFF.

Since the indicator in the switch flashes, the flasher relay circuit works.

Does the indicator lights work when you use the turn signal switch?

What total sum of power (W) for the lights do you have?
What power value is on the flasher relay?

Do you have LED lights or incandescent light bulbs?

This switch is not using any ground connection.

A picture showing the wires connected to the back of the switch would help.

*** Edit
A picture showing the flasher relay, designations and connected wires, would also help.
***
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The switch is like a ballpoint pen: One push, and it locks in down position (flasher ON). Next push, the lock releases and the button goes back to OFF.

Since the indicator in the switch flashes, the flasher relay circuit works.

Does the indicator lights work when you use the turn signal switch?

What total sum of power (W) for the lights do you have?
What power value is on the flasher relay?

Do you have LED lights or incandescent light bulbs?

This switch is not using any ground connection.

A picture showing the wires connected to the back of the switch would help.

*** Edit
A picture showing the flasher relay, designations and connected wires, would also help.
***
I will get you a picture of connections and electrical reading measurements on my next repair visit. Hopefully today if it warms up above 50.
 
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