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I need some advice?

How is the best way to put on JD decals? I got my Jorde decals today in the mail. This will be the first decals I have put on a tractor? What are some tips?

Thanks,

Tau44
 

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Lots of water so you can move it around where it needs to be. Then take a squeegee and start in the middle and push the water out to the sides. Just make sure you have them straight before you squeegee the water out cause it will be stuck.
Jody
 

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Only thing I can add to that is to use a tack cloth so you don't trap any dirt nubs under it and try to do it indoors so the wind doesn't blow anything onto the hood and under the decal. Don't be afraid of the soapy water it won't affect the glue at all. The first time I learned this back in my bodyshop days putting woodgrain on station wagons I couldn't understand how the soap wouldn't affect the glue but soon learned it wouldn't.
 

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I have always been told to use windex instead of hand soap because so many of todays handsoaps have loation in them
 

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Adamr88
Good point, also might want to use a prepsol type cleaner to remove any wax or grease residue. We used to use car soap, I didn't even think about all the new soaps. A rubber squeegee will work better than a plastic one which might gouge the decal.
 

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Originally posted by johndeere
Are you sure these are not stick on decals.Pull the back paper off and apply?
Yes you can, but it maya get to be a mess if it gets cockeyed or gets air bubbles under it. We used to have a Gerber Graphics machine at work which is a commercial plastic / vynil cutting machine that is used to cut letters and signs and graphics out of peel and press vynil material. Recomendation in manual stated to use Window or plain water witha few drops of liquid dish washing soap added, and sqeegee from cener outwards to ensure its bubble free. Even the folks that install the window tint film use water or soap/water to get air bubbles out. It makes for an easier job of applying decals, you don;t strecth them out of shape, you eliminate air bubbles under them and you can get the positioned correctly, and if you find a nub under it in the process you can easily lift it and remove nub and redo. After a few hours its there to stay.

On our larger decals (used on aircraft etc) we used to use a perferator, as they were just too large to squeegee from the center on out. Perferations ono the decal also helped if an edge got loose it would not rip the entire decal away with the speed and velocity of air passing over it, (not a problem on a L & G tractor I am sure.)
 
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