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First season with my core aerator (48") the unit itself is 300 lbs and has room on top for Cinder block's for additional weight...
My guess 160 lbs addtional...You need 4wd when using the Aerator, otherwise the rear wheels slip. I never thought Aeratoring required so much traction and power...It works very well and it appears core aerating requires both more power and traction....

Duc
 

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Hi Duc
That looks like a real tough aerator! Is it spring loaded so it doesn't jump up over rocks? I have the craftsman (agri-fab) one w/o springs and works pretty good even when weighted but that one sure looks good. Really well built.

What's on the front of the cub in the picture?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Sixchows,

Its on the 3 Pt so it will raise if it hits a rock or root....The unit is heavy duty and I got it from Coriher...being using it alot these
days

The Cub has the front Hydrolic hitch on it for the front blower ..I havent removed it yet because I need to move the blower around still...

Duc
 

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The 40" Agri Fab core aerator was all my F525 could handle and on sloped portions of the yard it would cause the tires to spin. I was very surprised at the resistance it created but as flimsy as the aerator looked, it held up well. Did you remove the FEL when you were using the aerator? The FEL makes the tractor VERY front heavy and transfers a tremendous amount of weight to the front axle. My 4410 is very light on the rear tires with the FEL even with fluid filled tires.
 

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So what exactly is the purpose of aerating? Doesn't seem to be done much in this area, although guess I really don't know that. Is there a mechanical rod that pushes the plug out? In the gumbo where I live seems it would just clog up the first time around if there's not something to push it out as it goes.

Changing subjects - Ducati - I like the looks of the quick attach on the front of the cub. JD has a similar setup, but it looks like the cub setup is a lot wider. I would guess attachments wouldn't be able to exert as much leverage and would feel solider.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Chief,

The FEL stay's on because I'm in the busy season with it !! as soon as I finish with aerating I go back to moving topsoil...lots of topsoil ( I'm almost 90 % done moving it)

I guess I never would have expected the gripping effect the aerator has, its kind of having a giant fork attached to your machine...

Duc
 

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Originally posted by Old_Nodaker
So what exactly is the purpose of aerating? Doesn't seem to be done much in this area, although guess I really don't know that. Is there a mechanical rod that pushes the plug out? In the gumbo where I live seems it would just clog up the first time around if there's not something to push it out as it goes...
Old_Nodaker,
I bet golf courses up there in the Northern Tundra use core aeration in both the Spring and Fall. Aeration relieves some of the compaction that results from driving equipment and people walking over the turf constantly. Punching holes in the turf opens up the roots to receive more moisture and nutrients. The core aeration machinery I have seen at golf courses I believe have some type vibrator system that shakes the plugs out of the spines of the aerator unlike the one that Ducati pictured or my small Craftsman unit. The soil conditions have to be slightly moist for the spines to core properly but if it's gumbo like you mentioned, you will clog the spines. I don't core aerate anymore since the lawn service I use puts stuff down on the lawn that eliminates the requirement. I also have sprinkler heads that don't fare very well if they get hit by a core aerator spine.:eek:

When I did use my small aerator, I never had any wheel slippage problems even going up hill but it was not contacting as much surface area at a time as Ducati's unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Old_Nodaker,

After speaking with everybody in creation on how to improve one's lawn, everybody always mentioned aeration as a key ingredient. First year doing it so the results are still out, but I'm sure they are correct...The soil compaction, and allowing the fert, lime to get into the soil deeper cant hurt....

The Aerator works under any gummy soil conditions and it has everything to do with weight. The cores are pushed out each rotation by force and no extra springs are needed. When you are finished you would wash or unplug the cores, but as long as you see plugs being left behind all is well. I have clay, sand and muck as soil, and the plugs work just as stated. Again weight is the key, and this unit is heavy plus you add weight...

The Cub front quick hitch is very solid, quick & easy to attach front blower...I need it still to move the blower around a few more weeks, then I'll remove altogether..

I should have been clear on my traction statement...I have plenty of traction as well as 4wd....I figure for example a Box Blade can stop a machine cold. I didnt expect the Aerator to be as critical..
thats all I really meant....

Duc
 

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Duc,
Nice aerator, looks really good on the JD.
I see you added some extra weight. When you use the aerator
with the 3 point, does the hitch apply additional down pressure ?

I have used a walk behind aerator every year. (spring & fall)
I made a big mistake when I put the sod down by not doing adequate
soil prep. I had plenty of top soil underneath but as you said,
Long Island has a lot of clay and the ground under the sod got like a rock.
I had real problems watering, with no penetration the water quickly began
to just roll off. In hot months it was a real problem. After the 3rd season of
aerating I really began to see a difference. Stay with it, aerating works.

Sixchows, how well does the agri-fab work ? Is it available with springs to
clear the plug tubes ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
aegt5000,

Typically 3 Pt don't supply down pressure, unless there is a setup specifically for that ( hydraulic cylinder)

This my first year with the aerator but I know it will pay off soon...It has to help because it makes sense on how the soil responds...

Duc
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well my yard has exceeded my expectations (which are usually always high on everything- unatural personality flaw :)

I'm sure Aeration was a big factor - just not sure how many times a season do most folks aerate?
as for the seed & fert. program I cant say enough good things about Lesco products... www.lesco.com

Duc
 

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Duc, I am still paying the price for the 19-19-19 and core aerating. I have to cut every 5 days but it sure does look nice. :D
 

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Chief,

You are so right - I have never had to contend with grass growing so quickly before - 2x a week for me...its so thick and moisture ridden, that I'm not getting the easy clippings free cut
I was used to. I have to go over it twice and when done clean the underside of the deck...way more work than I wanted...I might just go back to burnt embers for a lawn :)

How many times should aerating be done during the season? 3 times?

Duc
 

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Duc and Chief,
You guys must not be golfers because golf course core aerate twice per season. Once in the Spring and once in the Fall. I have always used a golf course as my standard for lawn appearance. A golf course is going to get more compaction than our lawns because of the foot and cart traffic in a typical season. Also, in cold climates like here in Chicago, the winter freeze and thaws caused the ground to heave reducing compaction when Spring comes around. For this reason I only core aerated once a year. Both of you live in areas with milder winters than I do so twice a year like the golf courses might be optimum. If I remember correctly, John Deere in their latest copy of their magazine said to core aerate in the Spring. My advice is to check with a local golf course that has good turf to see what they do which would be more specific to the type of soil and turf both of you have.
 

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Good advice DeereBob. Can you show us any pics of your golf course lawn? What type of grass do you use and what type of fertilization? I personally have St. Augustine grass and uses Scotts Turb Builder and Winterization products. I have not core aerated ever and I think I really could benefit from it. (been here for 6.5 years now) The lawn is in decent shape and fertilization and water have really helped it grow in thick. Saint Augustine Decline is a disease that occurs in older St Aug lawns plus my grass had some pretty hefty brown spot damage last year. While most of that is gone now, it is still not in golf course shape. ;)

Well, thanks for the info.
Andy
 

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Admin,
I said I use a golf course as a model to strive for but unfortunately I do not have quite that high quality turf in my yard. My front yard is in good shape this year but the back is not due to dog whiz, foot traffic to the dog run, shade and wild grass encroachment. My wife and I plan to reseed the damaged portion of the back yard this weekend. As far as core aeration, I haven't done it for a couple of years on the advice of my lawn service person. He applies organic nutrients to the lawn 4 times a season that include items that reduce soil compaction. Also with irrigation system sprinker heads, I have to be extremely careful with the aerator to avoid them. In spite of this I plan to aerate the back yard this weekend prior to reseeding since it gets much more foot traffic than the front. I have enclosed a link to the site where I have pictures of my front and back yard from last year.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290197109
 
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